Hello everyone.
I already had a review of what I purchased. In the same review, we’ll look at a homemade solder paste or flux crusher...
In the header there is a link to one of the components.
First of all, what is this for...
Such a press is useful, in my opinion and experience of use, for those who are engaged in the manufacture of piece printed circuit boards using SMD at home. It is convenient to apply a few dozen drops of solder paste to the pads or polygons and then put the board in the oven, use a hairdryer or soldering iron. And if you make a couple of these crushers yourself, you can easily apply flux... for example, everyone’s favorite RMA-223. :0)
I think it’s a bit too much to use a pneumatic dispenser for these purposes.
It is very convenient to use a crusher in repairing boards with SMDs. I blew out a burnt-out transistor or microcircuit, removed excess solder, added a drop of paste, installed a new part, poked it with a soldering iron or ran it with a hairdryer and you’re done, soldering is almost like it came from the factory. Convenient and beautiful.
I decided to assemble a crusher using a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor. Why? Because it is the most common and cheapest engine on eBay and Ali. Due to the fact that there are simply no other stepper motors at a normal price, suitable sizes and a 5-volt power supply (either I didn’t find it, or I was too lazy to look)… There were other reasons… those who are interested can look under the spoiler at the end of the review.
So, what did I get?
Height 
Weight 
Chest size:) 
Let's eat
(Do not look at the inscription, the face has not been altered) 
Control.
Button control, forward backward. The middle button was conceived as an “automatic”, but it seems that it will remain an idea, since it has not yet been possible to get rid of air in the solder paste.There are regulators for “Speed” and “Recoil Time” (how long the engine will spin back when releasing the “Forward” button to relieve pressure). The third regulator is not yet activated.
Rod stroke 6 centimeters
In order to install the syringe, it needs to be cut as in the picture.
But there are no screeds. The syringe is inserted into a clamp for mounting plastic pipes, diameter 16 mm.
The process itself is in the photo, insert the syringe and turn it over. Holds up great.
A few, just photos...
Solder paste application test.
On the same defective scarf.
Unfortunately, the pressure force, like that of the author of the product in the previous review, could not be measured. They don’t want to measure the scales and that’s it...
Conclusions:
Minuses.
-It is not possible to get rid of the “worm” that is pulled forward when the button is released. But this is more likely due to the air in the paste than to the crush.
-Dimensions have increased.
Pros.
-The press works, presses the paste directly from the refrigerator, presses the flux. What else do you need...
-Dimensions have increased. Since my hand is not small, the previous press was quite inconvenient to operate due to its small size. This one suited my hand exactly.
-The price is cheap, especially in comparison with the purchased crusher from the previous review.
-It also works, it presses...
Well, if the result is the same, why pay more!?
The manufacturing process... for those who are interested in this topic.
The process of making a crusher from screws and sticks.
At the request of his comrades who supported him.The dispenser, in principle, is not bad and suits almost everyone... except for the price, the shock-absorbing rubber piston, the lack of a syringe stop when reversing the engine, the “crookedly” positioned joystick, the lack of ability to adjust the time/reverse angle, etc. etc., as well as the opportunity to lend a hand.
The idea of self-burning appeared in parallel with the purchase of the finished product. There was an idea that not everything was so smooth in the Danish kingdom and there would be bugs in the purchased device that would not allow you to sleep peacefully...
Adding confidence in the positive outcome of the idea was a link that flashed somewhere in the comments, to an English language one with a beautiful picture
Surfing the forum led to a download link with files for making such a thing. The archive contains a diagram, board, firmware, files for making frames for the product on a 3D printer, etc...
I looked and figured... The scheme does not suit me. I would like to be able to adjust the engine reverse time in order to get rid of the vile “worm” as much as possible, or at least try, maybe it will work out. I would also like to get an automatic mode. Those. When you press a button, the engine takes, for example, three steps forward, one step back, and we get a dosed drop of paste. Accordingly, the scheme is for modernization.
The presence of variables/adjusters in the circuit, rather than buttons, is due to my love for analog adjustment and the possibility of more flexible adjustment of modes without constant firmware changes and constant re-flashing of the MK, which is convenient when setting up the first copy.
According to my idea, it is much easier to adjust the modes using adjustment tools, and, if necessary, change the firmware and tweak the buttons in the final version of the device.
The lack of a 3D printer led to the idea of making a supporting frame from PCB, also known as a printed circuit board, based on the approximate model from the previous review. And the lack of a router suggested that it would have to be done using improvised means from improvised means.
We will make a crusher using a Chinese “Dremel”, a screwdriver, files + needle files, a hacksaw for metal, a soldering iron and other simple tools that most DIY enthusiasts will have...
Let's get started
On Ali, I ordered the cheapest stepper for a buck and a few kopecks, it also flashed in the photo from the Angloforum (the original idea was to press the gumboil, paste if possible), I have to pull it.- $1.22 per piece.
A microcircuit consisting of a set of powerful transistor switches on which the stepper control controller is based.
- 0.32 bucks per pair.
Microcontroller.
- for 1.32 bucks.
Bushing for transition from engine to pusher.
- 1.39 bucks.
The screws have been ordered, let's move on to the “sticks”.
In the bins were dug up: a piece of aluminum tube, an M3 hairpin (bought in Leroy, 21 rupees per meter), a piece of fiberglass, a scrap of radiator, photoresist, a mask... and other necessary things...
While the orders are on the way, we are slightly altering the scheme to suit our needs.
We first separate the signet (it reminds me of something:0))
We are not making the board yet, we are waiting for the engine and noises to estimate the actual dimensions of the board in kind, so as not to fly by.
- I once ordered a WH1602 indicator for an ampere-voltmeter. I sawed a window for it according to the datasheet. The indicator that arrived was 2 mm. already:0(.
While we are giving the cutting of the radiator the desired shape, it will later be installed in its place.
From scraps of double-sided fiberglass soldered in an oven (2x1.5 mm, unfortunately we couldn’t find any thicker), using a Chinese “Dremel” we make pistons for the paste pusher, with and without a seal.
With seal, for simple syringes with screw-on needle (Luer-Lok). For those who have switched from smoking to vaping, I think there are a lot of different sizes of round rubber bands available for sealing. For those who are far from vaping, a hint: there are too many rubber bands like this, choose the right size.
Without seal, for ready-made syringes filled with paste or flux with a piston.
Pistons are made simply. We drill a hole in the center of a piece of PCB of the required size, insert a screw, tighten it with a nut on the back, insert the structure into a Dremel or drill, or Shura... Turn it on and cut out the round piece with a cutter. Using a file, we adjust it to the size we need, make/don’t make a groove. Solder the nut.
On one piston (in the photo) you can see additional. hole, soldered second nut and small screw. It's like a valve. If you insert the piston into a syringe filled with paste or flux yourself, the air will have nowhere to escape and it will try to squeeze the paste/flux through the hole for the needle. To get rid of unnecessary air, unscrew the screw, release the air, pressing the piston all the way until the paste/flux comes out of the hole and tighten the screw. I couldn’t come up with a simpler solution using the means at hand.
Without wasting time, we make a pusher for the piston.
We take an aluminum tube, a piece of a pin, a brass stand (I think brass will have less friction on iron), electrical tape and epoxy.
We screw the stand onto a pin and go over it with a brute file so that it holds better in the epoxy. We wrap electrical tape around the pin to center the stand inside the tube and to prevent the glue from leaking inside the tube and ruining everything for us.
We insert the whole thing tightly into the tube and fill the pin with epoxy.
When the glue hardens, we cut off the threaded tail and voila... we have a tube with a centered brass nut, inside which a pusher pin with a piston will run and squeeze the paste out of the syringe.
Meanwhile, the long-awaited stepper motor arrived. You can begin fitting and manufacturing the printed circuit board.
In the photo, the engine is already screwed to the scarf and its leads are shortened, so I apologize for some inconsistency and not very detailed description in the photos. Sometimes I forgot to take photos.
The circuit diagram and layout of the board are already ready, all that remains is to approve the dimensions and go...
We prepare fiberglass laminate, apply photoresist, develop it, etch it.
Preparation of fiberglass laminate is necessary to remove oxides, dirt and grease from the copper layer. Cleaned and degreased textolite is a guarantee (health:0)) of excellent adhesion of the film photoresist, so that it does not fall off during exposure and etching, which promises us good quality of the manufactured printed circuit board. I prepare fiberglass laminate using a simple sponge and Anti-grease product.
I spray it on the board several times and rub it with the abrasive side of the sponge, without being too zealous. Then I wash the fiberglass under running water. The sponge removes oxides and dirt, and “Anti-grease” degreases with a bang; after the procedure, the water does not want to leave the board at all.
In principle, I don’t use sandpaper for preparation; the copper on the PCB is already thin.
I tried a lot of detergents and settled on this one. The price is minimal, the quality of degreasing is maximum.
I roll Alpha 340 photoresist using a laminator, bought second-hand on Avito for 1000 rubles, in four passes. First, knurling on the cold side on one side, then on the other side, and finally on the hot side at 115-120 degrees in one direction and turning the board 180 degrees in the other direction. Sticks tightly.
Lighting with a nail dryer for 30 seconds. Then hold for 10 minutes and put into a liquid glass solution for development. Liquid glass, in our stores, is minimal, in liter bottles.
Solution... 4 bottle caps per half liter of water.
Below are photos from the process.
The board is being developed and after etching. I poison with peroxide, citric acid and salt. For 100 ml. peroxide, 30 grams of lemon and 5 grams of salt.
After etching, I remove the unnecessary photoresist with a “mole”, a pipe cleaner. I put the board in the bath, pour a little “mole” and boiling water on top. The photoresist peels off on its own, at first the truth fades to transparency. I tried “Krota” liquid and dry (previously diluted with water), the result was positive in both cases.
Previously, I removed photoresist with caustic soda, which I used to develop it. Or rather, if you kept it in soda during development, the photoresist was removed on its own without warning.
Then I removed the photoresist with acetone. Which is long and smelly. In addition, the store where I always bought it ran out of acetone... Apparently the drug addicts got wind of it...
Don’t look at the color of the board and copper after etching, this is what a damn photo turned out to be... :0(
We apply a mask.
I apply the mask through organza stretched over the frame. Mask PSR 4000. Almost the same as the common FSR-8000.
Next, dry the mask. 30 minutes at 75 degrees.
Illumination of the mask through a template in the same nail dryer, time 1 minute. 30 seconds. 10 minutes technical pause and then development in the same liquid glass solution.
After washing, go to the oven for tanning. 1 hour, at a temperature of 157 degrees.
I’ll leave out the cutting of the PCB board; I haven’t received the milling cutter for review yet, so grab a hacksaw, file and off you go. Nothing interesting there.
Although…
I cut PCB and PCB scarves using a hacksaw and a homemade jig...
It is made from a piece of profiled aluminum, from which I don’t even know, a piece of duralumin corner, a piece of plywood, a pair of bolts and three nuts glued into a piece of plywood. To ensure that the bolts clamp the PCB and do not run away, a circular groove is made in them (we clamp the bolt into the screw, turn it on with a file...) into which a lock washer is inserted, from the bottom of the corner.
You can’t cut large pieces of PCB in it, but small scarves are fine. You just can’t hold them with your hands, but it’s convenient here. You mark, insert the markings along the edge of the corner, tighten with bolts and a hacksaw...
If anyone wants to make something similar for a collective farm, then take a corner made of ferrous metal. Dural is eaten up quite quickly by a hacksaw, although it is quite durable, and the result is not a straight cutting line, but a slightly semicircular one.
If necessary, you can cut it with scissors.
I have a special desire to make a cutter from a tile cutter, but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
Next we tin the board. Before tinning, I coat it heavily with aluminum soldering flux, FTKA. I take a piece of braid, put a drop of solder on it and use a soldering iron to smooth the circuit board. It turns out great. Anyway, wash the board before soldering.
I tried other fluxes, nothing was the same.
I wanted to solder everything at once in the oven, but the parts ordered during the Chinese New Year refused to go together. So I will solder and assemble the crusher as I go.
I solder the vias with thin wire. I pass one wire through all the transitions at once. Then I go through one side of the board with a soldering iron, turn it over, go through the other side, then use side cutters to bite off all the excess.
Well, here are some photos during the assembly process...
We try on the engine, solder some of the SMD connectors.
We solder the remaining SMDs and trimmers, which will act as variables. Making colored buttons...
Buttons, by the way, are for showing off. I took microbuttons with long pushers and a force of 100 g, I couldn’t find anything less. They are pressed quite easily and what is noteworthy is that you do not need to press directly from above, but you can also press to the side. Moreover, pressing to the side is much more convenient and they work perfectly.
Assembling the pusher.
Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of the entire adapter sleeve, so the first photo is from the seller.
We clamp the bushing into the screw and use a file to adjust it to the required diameter so that the bushing fits into the tube. Then we cut it to the required size without removing it from the shurik, using a hacksaw for metal.
We try it on and glue it onto our favorite epoxy.
We put everything together, flash it, use it...
Download link, circuit and board in Diptrace, firmware in Arduino
My son did the firmware in this case, so I can’t say anything specific about the firmware.
In the comments to the last review, some gentlemen/comrades expressed their dislike for using solder paste, a hair dryer, and even more so an oven for soldering circuit boards at home... I ask in advance not to stress in vain, since I respect your opinion in absentia and will not challenge it.
I don't force anyone to follow in my footsteps. Everything written above is my personal experience and my opinion does not claim to be true. I'm planning to buy
Roman Ursu showed how to use this method to make a homemade dispenser for conveniently and quickly filling glasses with carbonated drinks. We will need a tee, an adapter, a plug, a tap, a plastic bottle cap, fum tape, epoxy resin, and some kind of podium. The author will use a jar of pistachios.
What is needed for a dispenser
1. Regular plumbing tee;
2. A suitable water plug for this tee;
3. Water tap with adapter;
4. Plastic bottle cap;
5. sealing tape for threaded connections of pipe joints (fum tape);
6. Epoxy resin;
7. Base;
All of the above can be purchased at a regular hardware store. It is not at all necessary to look for exactly the same parts that I bought to assemble a dispenser for carbonated drinks with my own hands and described in this article. Show your imagination! Buy something unique that suits you in color and design and you will get a completely different dispenser in appearance.
Preparing to assemble the carbonated drink dispenser
In order to successfully implement a project called “How to make a dispenser for carbonated drinks with your own hands,” you first need to prepare all the parts of the future dispenser for assembly. Since all the plumbing parts are already ready for assembly, all that remains is to slightly modify the plastic bottle cap and make the base.
First, use a screwdriver and a 20 mm drill to make a hole in the lid. To avoid any burrs, we use a lighter to trim the edges. Mix two-component epoxy resin. We apply it to the lid and glue it into the tee.
We make a hole with a diameter of 32 millimeters in the middle of the bottom of the tin can. We process the edges of the hole with a file.
We insert the plug, wind the fum tape, and screw it to the tee.
Now fum the tape onto the adapter. Let's twist it. We do the same with the faucet. The dispenser is almost ready. All that remains is to unscrew the temporary neck.
We screw a PET bottle filled with a carbonated drink to the new neck.
To prevent the drink from leaking where the lid was glued with epoxy resin, it is advisable to first make a couple of scratches on the lid with a stationery knife. The only drawback to this homemade product is that you can only use carbonated drinks. Regular water without gas, unfortunately, will not work. This is due to the fact that a vacuum is created. In drinks with carbon dioxide, the juice is pushed out last. Both they and the water come out, and a vacuum plug is not created.
With this simple DIY that's easy to make in just a few minutes, you'll be able to beautifully fill your glasses with beer and other drinks.
We all have unwanted screw top glass jars in our house - so why not put them to good use and make an inexpensive and simple soap dispenser? This vintage inspired dispenser will brighten up any kitchen or... Just an hour of work and a few simple materials - and your room will have another useful functional detail.
Materials:
- 1 glass jar with a screw cap (and a narrow neck) with a capacity of 0.5 liters;
- 1 Liquid soap dispenser. In our case, we used a dispenser from an old soap dispenser, but in fact, any one will do - even the simplest and cheapest plastic one;
- White spray paint;
- Tin cutting knife;
- Universal adhesive with strong hold;
- Fine-grit sandpaper.
Work process:
1. Paint the inside of a glass jar with spray paint and let the paint dry (this will take about 20 minutes).
2. Using a tin knife, cut a hole in the lid with a diameter that matches the diameter of the dispenser tubes. Don't worry if the edges of the hole are uneven - they won't be visible.
3.Place the dispenser through the hole in the lid.
4. Apply multi-purpose adhesive to the underside of the lid to securely attach the dispenser to it. Let the glue dry (about 30 minutes).
5. Close the jar with a lid, properly screwing the lid to the jar.
6. If your can has a raised mark on it like ours, lightly sand it with short, gentle strokes to remove just a little bit of the paint.
FYI: If your dispenser will be in a high-traffic area, it can be secured with a clear, non-yellowing sealant.
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