Beautiful home flower Amaryllis*

Amaryllis* (Amaryllis, Hippeastrum)- one of our favorite indoor plants, especially in the rather cold Russian climate, with an almost six-month period of snow and lack of access to such natural gardening work in your favorite garden plot! Modern varieties of amaryllis are very varied in color and, as a rule, are crowned with large bell-shaped flowers in various shades from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green. There are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers. The homeland of this unusual flower is South America.

(*The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis beladonna and Hippeastrum garden. We are talking about hippeastrums here, see description on page Hippeastrum (Ed.)

source http://www.greeninfo.ru/indoor_plants/amaryllis.html/Article/_/aID/4671

Amaryllis are bulbous plants with linear, fairly long oblong leaves. Hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrum are more common in culture. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants, as they are easily forced indoors even by the most unprepared amateurs. As a rule, each bulb produces one or two long flower shoots with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter, and sometimes more. It happens that well-developed bulbs also produce a third arrow, but I usually remove it at the very early stage of its development, since I believe that the third flowering is very significantly inferior in beauty and abundance of flowering to the previous two and, most importantly, greatly weakens the mother bulb, which is fraught with a lack of flowering next year.

Amaryllis usually bloom in late winter or early spring. Some species and varieties can bloom in summer or autumn. With the help of forcing, with some little knowledge and skills, in principle, amaryllis can be made to bloom at any time of the year convenient for you. The height of peduncles averages 0.4-0.7 m and greatly depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The same applies to the size of each individual flower.

What is the difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum?

In fact, the popular flowers are representatives of two different genera (hippeastrum and amaryllis) or their hybrids. In terms of the nature of flowering, planting and caring for them, these two plants differ little from each other. In the first and simplest approximation, their difference is only in the size of the flower, the height of the peduncles and the size of the bulbs. Most often, in hippeastrums, everything is larger. Other differences are not very significant for us gardeners, so for simplicity we will use the common name for these plants - amaryllis. By the way, hippeastrum translated means “big knightly star.”

How to plant amaryllis correctly?

Depending on the size of the amaryllis bulb, it is planted in an individual (quite heavy) pot of 15-20 cm in size or in a small group, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, in a slightly larger container or container. Avoid light pots that can tip over during flowering of amaryllis or from minor gusts of wind if the foliage and peduncles are quite windy. The blunt end (usually with the remains of the roots) is used to bury the bulbs in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Firmly tamp the soil mixture around the bulbs so that approximately half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the surface of the soil. In the lower part of the earthen clod, almost above the drainage, you can horizontally place one or one and a half sticks of any long-acting complex fertilizer you have tested, after dividing them in half.

After planting or replanting, place the pot with amaryllis on a bright window in a fairly warm place and water it with water at room temperature. For planting, an earth mixture is used, consisting of approximately equal parts of turf, leaf, humus soil and sand. When replanting, the roots are shaken off from the old soil, and roots that have rotted in an old pot or dried out during long-term storage are removed.

Before planting, it is very advisable to first remove all dried outer scales of the bulbs that are black or dark brown for several reasons. Firstly, by peeling the bulb to live and elastic white or light green tissues and exposing your plant to the light, you thereby stimulate the production of chlorophyll in them and, as it were, stimulate or trigger all the necessary life processes in an often dormant or resting plant, if we are talking about a planned transplant of this plant. Secondly, if we are talking about newly acquired specimens, behind the dead covering membranes, there can be anything - small hidden foci of rot, pathogenic spores, and even young children that have grown into growth. Therefore, I strongly advise you, before planting, to carefully remove all the outer dark and even light outer shells that have already lost their elasticity, and separate all the fairly large and viable children. Next, it would be a good idea to treat your bulbs almost up to the neck for half an hour with some kind of fungicide or at least a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Then, after drying them well for several hours, or even a day, you can begin planting the prepared plants. Areas that make you suspicious can be pre-treated with Maxim, Fitosporin, or at least regular brilliant green. But they also need to be thoroughly dried before planting!

Very small, slightly puckered children are removed or left on the bulb, depending on your further goals and preferences in relation to a given variety or specifically in relation to a given specimen or a specific bulb. You can leave them if you need to quickly propagate this variety or remove them if abundant and long-lasting flowering is more important to you. It must be remembered that the presence of children can lead to a delay or even a prolonged absence of flowering in some varieties. The intensive formation of children is facilitated by the very spacious container in which they grow. The plant seems to understand - why strain and try to reproduce through flowering and setting seeds, if you can multiply your offspring more naturally and faster vegetatively.

Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb should be only 1.5-2 cm! Less is possible! As mentioned above, in a spacious container the plant produces many children and does not bloom for a long time. At the same time, well-developed amaryllis roots need a lot of space, so the pot should be deep enough and wide at the bottom. Good drainage is also essential, since the bulk of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage. It is advisable to use ceramic pots, without enamel. This promotes better ventilation and aeration of the root system.

Adult plants are replanted approximately every 2 years, younger plants are replanted as needed and the bulbs grow. If possible, the top layer of soil for all plants is replaced annually.

Which window is best to put it on?

Amaryllis are light-loving plants; they do very well on south-east and south-west windows. You can also place them on southern windows, but in the daytime it is better to shade the pots from direct sunlight. As the leaves and flower shoots grow, the plant must be periodically turned slightly so that the stem stretching towards the light returns to a vertical position.

How to water amaryllis?

Water the newly planted plant very sparingly so as not to flood the bulb and roots until the new leaves or flower begin to grow and reach about 5-7 cm in height. Depending on the variety, amaryllis may produce either foliage or flowers first - either of these options is normal, but most often the flower stalks appear. After the leaves or arrow of the flower begin to grow, you should keep the soil moist enough. But it is imperative to keep in mind that with a strong excess of moisture, thick roots that have not yet taken root and are not properly rooted, or even the bulb itself, can rot, especially if it previously had areas affected by rotting. In the absence of leaves and cold weather or windowsill, moisture from pots, especially plastic ones, evaporates slowly, which can cause rotting of roots and bulbs.

When will my amaryllis bloom?

A powerful, well-developed bulb begins to grow or throws out flower stalks almost immediately after planting. And within seven to eight weeks, depending on the variety and variety of amaryllis, you will receive one or two powerful peduncles, each of which will have three to five, and sometimes six beautiful flowers. To prolong their flowering, keep the pot in a fairly cool place and out of direct sunlight. If a third flower arrow suddenly appears, it is better to break it off immediately at the base and not allow the bulb to bloom a third time, since flowering three times greatly depletes the bulb. Immediately after the first flower opens, the peduncle can be safely cut off and placed in water in a narrow, tall vase; it is advisable to refresh the water every day. The duration of flowering of each peduncle in the cut and on the bulb is almost the same, but at the same time you significantly reduce the depletion of the bulbs and often stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

In summer, plants are watered abundantly (but not often!) as needed, and fed once every two weeks. On sunny days, only pots provide shade; you can spray the foliage in the evening or in the morning. It is better not to do this during the daytime, since water droplets can become microlenses and simply burn the leaves, concentrating the sun's rays on them. Amaryllis can also be taken out into the open air - a balcony, an outside window sill, or even planted in the garden, protecting the mouth of the bulb from heavy rainfall and excessive moisture in the earthen clod.

What does amaryllis need to bloom regularly?

You can help your amaryllis bloom again next year. All you need is a little extra care for this plant and it will repay you in spades. After flowering has ended, the flower stalks should be removed immediately, cutting them off at approximately 3-4 cm from the base. Continue to water the plant periodically as the top layer of the earthen ball dries out. Amaryllis should also be fed regularly, approximately once every two weeks or ten days, preferably with liquid fertilizers for bulbous plants. Amaryllis respond very well to liquid complex fertilizer “Emerald”. The more leaves the amaryllis produces during the spring and summer, the better. They will help the plant stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering. In this case, under favorable conditions for the plant, behind every fourth leaf either a flower bud or a baby embryo is formed. And depending on the size of the pot, care of the plant and some other external conditions, they may well begin to grow and reward you with either a beautiful flower or a new plant.

When can amaryllis be removed?

Amaryllis are highly valued precisely because their flowering time, by properly regulating the dormant period, can be timed to coincide with almost any desired date. But it is still better to do this from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for this plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better tolerate this event, which, simply put, occurs for them with the least loss. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will recover normally in the spring and summer. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost year-round.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy?

At the end of August - September, stop feeding and begin to reduce the amount of watering until it stops completely at the end of October - November. By this time, the amaryllis will begin to gradually shed its leaves, and the nutrients from them will gradually transfer to the bulb. Due to a significant reduction in watering and natural light, all leaves should naturally die off in October - November. There is no need to specifically trim leaves that have not yet withered, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, creating the necessary supply of nutrients for subsequent abundant flowering. But sometimes one or two unwithered leaves remain on the bulb for quite a long time. If they do not interfere with your further storage of the amaryllis pot, you can leave them. Often they are carefully bent or cut off at the base of the bulb to save space when storing them, for example, on racks in a cool pantry or a garage warm enough to keep temperatures below freezing in winter.

How to store amaryllis during dormancy?

In a dormant state, the bulbs usually retain living roots, at least skeletal and the largest ones, so they need to be watered a little occasionally (every 15-20 days). The bulbs do not need light during dormancy, so they can be placed in a dark, cool and always dry place. Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about +5-+12°C. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or loose in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values.

When does amaryllis usually bloom?

At home, the normal flowering period for amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. Very often, amaryllis bloom precisely on Valentine's Day or on the holiday of March 8, which for many years replaced Valentine's Day in our country. 7 - 10 weeks before the desired flowering date, bring the pots with rested bulbs into a warmer and brighter room, as described above. The amount of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen clod. By following these simple guidelines, you will be rewarded with regular flowering of your amaryllis every year.

How and when should amaryllis be replanted?

It is advisable to replant and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years. When planting and replanting, the root system is not cut off, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the children that often appear on the bulbs and, if necessary, plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. Children usually bloom around the third year after separation and transplantation. When replanting, the diameter of the container is increased only slightly, since amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster in “tight” containers.

It is better to replant plants in the spring, approximately 3-5 weeks after flowering. This is due to the fact that faded bulbs are greatly depleted and decrease in diameter, since flowering occurs almost exclusively due to the reserves of the bulb itself. Faded plants are carefully cleaned of wilted and dried outer scales and transplanted into smaller pots with a new nutrient substrate. The sizes of pots for amaryllis were discussed above. In summer they are kept in the same way as young plants, feeding them regularly.

As the diameter of the bulb increases, it can be transferred to a slightly larger container. But this must be done very carefully so as not to greatly damage the earthen ball and roots. At this moment, you can insert long-acting mineral nutrient sticks (fertilizers) into the lower part of the earthen clod. In a normally developing plant, the root system densely and evenly penetrates the entire earthen ball and does not allow it to fall apart. If this is not the case, then you need to understand what is preventing the plant from developing normally and take all necessary measures to eliminate these unfavorable factors.

How to propagate amaryllis?

Amaryllis are propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. Seed propagation is practiced only for selection and hybridization; for amateur floriculture, this propagation method is considered very costly and ineffective. Let me share a little of my sad experience. During my school years, I wanted to understand what would happen when crossing red and white amaryllis. At the same time, I received seeds on both white and red specimens. There were quite a lot of seeds in all the seed pods. Germination was good and almost all the planted seeds taken from both amaryllis germinated. There were about a hundred seedlings, I simply did not plant more due to lack of space. Gradually growing, they began to take up more and more space, and I had to compact them or distribute them to friends. Having reached adulthood, they all bloomed, but I never got any outstanding or even white-pink colors. Almost all colors were red. After interviewing all my friends with whom I shared seedlings, I realized that their colors were almost exactly the same as mine. This whole experiment took me approximately 5 years. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but this was the end of my desire to become an amaryllis “breeder.”

Modern varieties.

improvement or search for new varieties with classic large flowers of double and non-double forms. I would like to note such terry varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise etc. Among the non-double monochrome forms, I find them very interesting varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, Lemon Lime, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby and etc.;

searching for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or adding new shades to existing ones. I would note such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude, Misty, Clown, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz, Papillio, Pizazz and etc.;

search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petalled varieties of amaryllis or “spiders”, from the English “spider” - spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz etc. They all look very beautiful in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, are much inferior to large-flowered hybrids.

Amaryllis in open ground.

In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, amaryllis can be grown in open ground, but be sure to remember that it is afraid of negative temperatures. If there is a threat of frost, amaryllis bulbs should be brought into temperature-controlled rooms in advance. Bulbs should be planted in open ground mainly in sunny places or partial shade only after the threat of return frosts has disappeared.

In most regions of the Russian Federation, in winter, amaryllis overwinters only as a houseplant with a pronounced dormant period from approximately the end of October to the beginning of February.

Like

Plants of the Amaryllidaceae family grow in the wild in prairies, semi-deserts and deserts of Africa, America, and Asia. These are ephemeral plants. In two months they have time to grow, bloom, produce seeds for further reproduction, and also store nutrients in the rhizomes. By the time drought begins, the above-ground part of these plants dies off, and the bulb, already prepared for a long drought, hides in the hot soil.

The Karoo Desert in South Africa is considered to be the birthplace of true amaryllis (Amaryllis belladonna).

Amaryllis got its name in honor of the beautiful Greek shepherdess more than two thousand years ago. Belladonna translated from ancient Greek means a beautiful lady. Amaryllis is a beautiful flowering and decorative foliage perennial plant of the Amaryllidaceae family.

Amaryllis belladonna It blooms in the fall, at about the same time as in its homeland. A peduncle 50-60 cm high grows from the bulb, at the end of which there is an inflorescence. The amaryllis inflorescence bears four to six large red, pink or white flowers that look like a lily. Dark green, belt-shaped leaves appear simultaneously with the peduncle.

After the amaryllis has faded and the flower stalks gradually dry out, do not rush to trim the leaves, but continue to water and feed the plant itself, gradually reducing the number and volume of watering and feeding from time to time. In this way, the amaryllis prepares for dormancy. After two months, watering is carried out only occasionally, and then only insignificantly.

In preparation for the rest period amaryllis bulb continues to grow slowly, which is why it does not lose leaves. Signs of dormancy appear in the spring, this period continues until autumn. In August, amaryllis wakes up, the formation of buds begins, and only later does the development of leaves begin.

If at home you strictly observe the alternation of periods of growth with a period of rest, which lasts about three months, amaryllis will have lush and long-lasting flowering. If the alternating periods of growth and dormancy are not maintained, then the bulb is gradually depleted, this can lead to the fact that amaryllis flowering will be sparse or will stop blooming altogether, and the formation of daughter bulbs will stop.

Basic requirements for home care of amaryllis

Lighting: From direct sunlight to bright diffused light. If the amaryllis appears dark, it will not bloom.

Location: south, south-east, south-west windows.

Air temperature: all year round - ventilated room, in winter, during the growth period, temperature +10 +15 0 C; in summer, during the rest period +18+25 0 C.

Earth mixture: turf soil, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The substrate for amaryllis must be nutritious, water- and breathable with a neutral or alkaline soil pH. A drainage layer is also required.

Ambient humidity: without spraying, during the dormant period of amaryllis - keep dry. During the growth period, regular watering is required, avoiding excess moisture.

Top dressing: with the beginning of growth, weekly fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizer, liquid fertilizing fertilizers, during the dormant period without fertilizing.

Trimming: Amaryllis does not need pruning.

Transfer: amaryllis does not need frequent replanting, so when replanting you need to select larger pots in order to replant less often. It should be taken into account that the bulb itself grows, and daughter bulbs are also formed, which can be separated during transplantation. Annual replanting leads to damage to the roots, which in turn affects growth retardation and flowering. Instead of replanting, you can partially change the soil, or add fresh soil as it settles and the amaryllis bulb becomes bare. Recommended replanting every 4-6 years, after the flower shoot has completely dried out.

Reproduction: by daughter bulbs when transplanting or by seeds in spring. When propagated by seeds, new plants bloom after five years, when propagated by bulbs - after three years. Therefore, vegetative propagation (by bulbs) of amaryllis is widely used in industrial floriculture.

Diseases: with excessive watering, with an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers or feeding with fresh manure, various rots of amaryllis bulbs develop, leading to the loss of the plant.

Pests: in a dry room, amaryllis is susceptible to attacks by spider mites, thrips, and scale insects.

For a long time there was confusion with plants from the Amaryllis family. True African amaryllis is being replaced by various varieties and hybrids of large-flowered hippeastrums. Beginning flower growers need to know that under the name “amaryllis”, very similar hippeastrums, which are native to South America, can be sold in flower markets.

Amaryllis, the care of which is quite simple if you follow simple rules, is a bulbous plant from the family of the same name. A native of South Africa, it was brought to Europe in the 18th century, where it quickly took one of the leading positions among beautifully flowering ornamental crops.

Types and varieties of plants

The genus is represented by a single species, which is known under two names - Amaryllis belladonna or Amaryllis the Beautiful. A perennial plant with a bulbous root system has sword-shaped basal leaves in two rows, framing a fleshy peduncle up to 60 cm in height. When flowering, an umbrella inflorescence is formed at the end of the arrow, consisting of flowers with a diameter of 5-8 cm with a variety of colors, depending on the variety.

After the appearance of amaryllis in the gardens and windowsills of Europeans, breeders do not stop working on developing new varieties, among which stand out:

• Durban– a large-flowered variety, distinguished by carmine-red, bell-shaped flowers with a white throat.
• Parker- a typical representative of the species is pink in color with a yellow base of the petals.
• Ice Queen- a variety with large flowers consisting of glossy white petals with a creamy coating on the edges.
• Vera– pink flowers of this variety have a distinctive feature in the form of a pearlescent coating.
• Red Lion- a beautiful representative of the species with large flowers painted in an intense red color.
• La Paz- an original variety with flowers consisting of narrowed green petals edged with a red coating.

Amaryllis: growing features

The plant, distinguished by its high decorativeness combined with undemandingness, has a number of features associated with its natural growing environment that must be taken into account when cultivating a flower at home:

• sufficient amount of light;
• moderation of watering;
• choosing the right pot;
• regularity of fertilizing.

Home care

Successful cultivation of amaryllis requires compliance with basic care measures.

Lighting and location

Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which can be provided to the flower by placing the pot on windowsills in the south-east and south-west directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.

Important! In the summer season, the duration of daylight should be at least 16 hours.

Temperature

The temperature regime for the full development of amaryllis depends on the development phase:

• During the active growth phase, the optimal temperature varies from 18 to 25°C depending on the time of day.
• During the rest period, the temperature range is provided in the range from 10 to 16°C.

Carefully! When growing crops, one should not allow strong temperature changes that negatively affect the plant.

Requirements for soil and pot

To obtain a flowering plant, you need to select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. The nutrient substrate, prepared from turf and leaf soils, sand and humus in a ratio of 2:2:2:1, is calcined in the oven before use to destroy pathogens.

Watering a flower and air humidity

When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen ball has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a tray with water for 20-30 minutes, which helps prevent unwanted water from entering the bulb, which occurs with the upper method of irrigation. Amaryllis easily adapts to the dry air in the apartment, so it does not require additional spraying.

Advice! To make it easier for the flower to breathe through the leaf blades, you should systematically wipe them from dust.

Feeding and fertilizer

Amaryllis needs regular feeding during the period of active growth:

• bird droppings diluted in water in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of liquid;
• mullein at the rate of 250 g per bucket of water;
• a solution of mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content, prepared from a bucket of water and 3 g of agrochemical.

Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red burn on the flower.

Flowering and pruning

With the arrival of autumn, the flowering of the crop is observed, which, unlike hippeastrum, occurs after the development of green mass. In the natural environment, this period, in which white and pink flowers bloom, falls in autumn. Many varieties with a variety of colors have been bred in cultivation. After flowering, the shoots die naturally and no pruning is required.

Transfer

The amaryllis flower is replanted every 3-4 years after flowering has completed.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. A new container is selected so that the distance between the wall of the pot and the edge of the bulb is 2-3 cm.
2. Expanded clay drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot.
3. The bulb is inspected for diseases and placed in a pot, after which it is sprinkled with a new substrate so that ⅓ of the part remains above the ground level.
4. The substrate is compacted and slightly moistened.

Rest period

After the flowering phase is completed, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which lasts on average 2 months: watering and fertilizing are reduced. The shedding of leaves signals the beginning of active growth of the bulb. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room where the temperature should not exceed 16°C. Moistening is carried out as needed when the earthen ball dries out.

Disease and pest control

The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot when the maintenance regulations are violated - excessive watering, high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. If the disease develops intensively, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests observed on amaryllis are spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects, which should be combated by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions indicated on the packaging.

Amaryllis propagation

Amaryllis is propagated in two ways: generative and vegetative.

Seeds

Due to the labor-intensive nature of the method and the inability to preserve varietal qualities, seed propagation at home is extremely rare.

If the florist still makes up his mind, then:

1. Artificial pollination is carried out with a brush.
2. After two months, when the seed pods begin to crack, the seed material is collected.
3. Dried seeds are distributed over the surface of light, moist soil in January-February, and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of soil.
4. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until germination.
5. After the seedlings have formed 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are seated in separate pots.

Attention! New plants obtained in this way will enjoy their first flowering only after a seven-year growth period.

Children

During the next transplant, reproduction can be carried out by separating the children:

1. The baby with roots is separated from the mother bulb using a sharp instrument.
2. The sections are disinfected with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or a fungicide solution.
3. A small bulb is planted in a separate pot with prepared amaryllis substrate and moved to a warm room for rooting. After 1-3 years, mature bulbs will grow and are capable of flowering.

By dividing the bulb

The most popular technique in which:

1. A large onion is selected, freed from scales, and then divided into 4 parts.
2. The cuttings are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried ⅓ into a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22°C until rooting.

Why doesn’t amaryllis bloom and why do the flowers and leaves turn pale?

Despite the unpretentiousness of the crop, failure to comply with basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the flower losing its decorative properties or the complete absence of inflorescences.

The main reasons are:

• lack of lighting;
• lack of macro- and microelements;
• absence of a resting phase;
• untimely transplantation;
• deep embedding of the bulb;
• constant overflows leading to the development of diseases;
• incorrectly selected pot;
• presence of pests.

Important! If less than three years have passed since planting the bulb, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.

How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?

Often, hippeastrums from the tropical zones of South America, the genus of which has more than 85 species, are mistaken for amaryllis, which is represented by only one species.

There are a number of parameters that will help the gardener not make mistakes:

• bulb - in amaryllis the bulb is pear-shaped, while in a tropical flower it is round;
• inflorescence - amaryllis has umbrellas consisting of 6-12 flowers, while hippeastrum has a maximum of 6 flowers;
• flowering - amaryllis flowers bloom in autumn, and hippeastrum flowers bloom in spring and summer;
• peduncle - the hippeastrum has a hollow arrow.

So, the amaryllis flower is a beautifully flowering plant that requires minimal but proper care. Fulfilling all the requirements for maintaining the crop at home will allow the gardener to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of wondrous beauty.

Amaryllis is a popular indoor plant that is found in the flower collections of many gardeners. Demanded for its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try too hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much work with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

For amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the growing season. So, at a certain time the plant actively grows, and at another time it begins to rest. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions, when temperatures hover near freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• During the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can also place the plant on a south-facing window, if you first shade it from the scorching daytime rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• During the growth phase, the plant should receive 14-16 hours of powerful, diffused sunlight each day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually reach towards the sun, which means that the pot will have to be constantly rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special supports.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture, so it is recommended to water it regularly with settled water at room temperature, through a tray, from which excess water is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but there is no need to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, withering of leaves, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. Optimal humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only sprayed periodically. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimal room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the rest period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10–12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Planting amaryllis at home photo

Choosing a pot

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It must be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, during care, a lightweight pot is more likely to be touched than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is selected based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that from it to all walls there should be up to 3-5 cm. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

Next we move on to choosing soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs. But any experienced gardener will abandon this idea and go prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: to do this, pour it over with strong boiling water or hold it over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

It is necessary to fill the bottom with drainage 2-3 cm thick. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, and small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and distributed over the surface of the pot. A large hole is also made in it to drain water.

The drainage from above is also covered with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm, in order to additionally protect against rotting of the roots due to the accumulation of water.

Planting amaryllis step by step

Planting indoor amaryllis photo

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface that have fairly good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rot, mold, or stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, you should not choose it either.

1. The bulbs are cleaned of all bad scales, which range in color from black to beige and reach tissues that are pure white or light green. After this, the bulb is treated with potassium permanganate, immersed in its pink solution for half an hour. If permanganate is not available, you can choose another fungicide, such as Bordeaux mixture.
2. When the processing of the planting material is completed, it is laid out to dry for 12-24 hours. If there are any places in the bulbs that may be affected by diseases, they are not removed. For this, there are preparations such as Maxim, Zelenka, Fitosporin, which are used to treat the affected areas, after which the bulb is dried.
3. Next, pour half of the substrate into the pre-prepared pot.

After planting the amaryllis bulb, the substrate is added to the sides

The bulb is placed in the ground with the blunt end and then soil is added so that about half to a third of the bulb remains above the surface in height.

4. After this, the soil is pressed with your palms, mulched with small stones as desired, watered with warm water and the plant is installed in its permanent habitat.

Amaryllis transplant

How to replant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis is transplanted after it has bloomed, waiting until the peduncle has completely withered.

There is no need to replant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more often than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too quickly, you can transplant it earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, water the plant abundantly 4 days before replanting.
2. On the day of transplantation, carefully remove the amaryllis along with the soil and carefully clear it of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotten roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and the daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to be separated (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you don’t have to do it. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases the amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow more children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Amaryllis propagation

Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of propagating amaryllis - dividing the bulb, children and seeds.

Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds

This is the longest method of reproduction and the least successful. If seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

Amaryllis seeds at home

To obtain seeds you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

Amaryllis from seeds photo seedlings

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination rate drops sharply over time.
• Before planting, moisten the soil well.
• Planting depth is 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• Place the pot with seeds in a warm, shaded place.
• They wait about a month for the emergence of seedlings, and 3 months after that, the seedlings are planted in different pots.

Dividing the bulb

How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo

This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the cuts with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25–27 ºС.
• The first leaf grows on the cuttings. They wait for the second one, and plant the plants in mature soil for bulbous plants, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

This video will tell you how to cut an amaryllis bulb:

Many gardeners successfully use bulb division to propagate amaryllis; it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful way to propagate amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store-bought ones, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small bulbs on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and pressing lightly into the ground. Only part of the onion is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly compact the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and the flowers are given rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis, although an exotic plant, is quite real in everyone’s home. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Caring for amaryllis at home

Amaryllis planting and care at home photo

Watering and fertilizing

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle is at least 10 cm high. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that the water does not get on the bulb while watering. It should fall purely on the soil around it.

In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intense flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor flowering plants will do - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Power of Life and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen are preferable.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted in a ratio of 1.5 cups per 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

When the leaves die completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out during the resting phase either.

Blooming amaryllis at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture there are tricks on how to change this period. The easiest one is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, producing mature peduncles already in 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to overload the bulb with flowering.

When the first flower appears and blooms, some cut off the peduncle and place it in a vase. Provided the water is updated daily, it can last there for up to three weeks. You don’t have to cut the peduncle, but it will last just as long and will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or pot of flowers in a cooler, darker location.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

Why amaryllis does not bloom How to make amaryllis bloom

You must understand which of the reasons listed is present for you. It needs to be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When flowers wilt, the amount of incoming water and fertilizer is sharply reduced. They completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when there are no peduncles or leaves left.
2. All dead leaves are removed, but this should not be done forcibly. If you leave a partially living leaf, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the resting phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still living, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and place them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know tricks that make their amaryllis bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, strictly organize a rest period for the bulb to rest and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, pots with amaryllis are taken out from their resting place, placed in a bright and insulated place, and watered. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

red burn amaryllis photo

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest lesions are cut off and treated with brilliant green. Leave the plant in the air for a week, then plant it.

2. Mold and rot

Rot on amaryllis photo

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer and smells a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution specified by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It feels like the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This leads to their withering and drying out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

Damage to amaryllis by onion mite photo

• The insect attacks the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and lack of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• The bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35–40ºC for 5 minutes. After this, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the onion is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur bomb, which is set on fire. They wait 2 hours, after which they take it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis in the fresh air for another day.

5. Trips

Damage to amaryllis by thrips photo

• There are many small brown spots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and replant it in a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

Mealybug on amaryllis photo

Scale on amaryllis photo

• Dense scales are observed at the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white or even dark brown. Around them there is a sticky discharge, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is soaked in laundry soap and foamed. The leaves are actively wiped with it.

9. Aphids

Aphids on amaryllis photo

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are collected by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are visible on the surface of the soil.
• The moisture supply is reduced, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

Stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis that are selectively bred. True Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is prized by avid gardeners.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following goals:

• Growing large double and regular flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Non-double varieties include Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotic, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new flower forms. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow petals that are partially corrugated at the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that amaryllis of classic varieties is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties include Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Plant photos

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis

Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllidaceae family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow in the wild alone, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Pictured is hippeastrum

In order not to repeat ourselves, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - at the end of winter or beginning of spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Saturation of aroma:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• for amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• at hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. Number of flowers per plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. Presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which is slightly purple;
• the hollow tube, which is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• for amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• at hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb by shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened at the side.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe on the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Planting and flowering of amaryllis Amaryllis propagation and care at home

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one plant species to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, the geography here is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the homeland of plants.

The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is responsible for the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis was only one of the subspecies of lilies. They called him lionartsis. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant first appears in the works of Virgil. In his poetic works you can find a heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. This name means "sparkling" in Greek.

Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greenery of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

The beginning of amaryllis flowering is marked by the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Then the leaves grow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. The type of inflorescence is an umbrella.

Amaryllis growing in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, and green colors. An individual amaryllis flower is similar to a lily and a gramophone, being 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Amaryllis belladonna planting and care at home photo

Despite the apparent cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will cause irritation. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap. You need to keep the flower away from pets and children.

Reminder for plant care

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the rest period - about 15 During flowering - when the top layer of soil dries out, do not water during the dormant period. Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poisonous juice, observing periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright, diffused light; in summer, direct rays of the sun are allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

Amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight for normal development.. During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On a south window, the amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature conditions during active growth:

• Daytime 20–22° C;
• At night no less than 18° C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimal temperature will be about 15° C, the minimum 10° C, and the maximum 18° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it may germinate too quickly, not allowing the plant to fully rest.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since differences in day and night temperatures in the middle zone can be significant. This plant does not like sudden decreases or increases in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

This flower requires a period of rest. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and produce a peduncle in the spring, it can be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Watering frequency – the top layer of soil should dry out slightly between waterings. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering ends, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), switch to the normal watering regime, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, you can spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, and bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis, a soil consisting of turf soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. The soil acidity indicator should be pH 6.0–6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

• Sod land - 2 parts;
• Leaf soil - 2 parts;
• Humus – 1 part;
• Peat – 1 part;
• Washed river sand – 1 part.

Sand can be replaced with leavening agents such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified soil composition will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during watering.

Also, to prevent water from stagnating in the soil, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, fertilizing is carried out once every 10 days. To do this, use a complex liquid fertilizer suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, fertilizing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, stop completely.. Fertilizer application is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

They begin to fertilize the soil for amaryllis when flower stalks appear from the bulb in the spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the leaves form and flowering ends. This species grows leaves after the formation of a peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so there is no need to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to regularly wipe the leaves or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, special care rules must be followed during the period of growth and dormancy. Amaryllis is also a poisonous plant and should only be handled with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous indoor plant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But don’t rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, you just need to follow precautions.

Periods of growth and rest

Let's look at how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a regular houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After amaryllis blooms, you need to remove the flower stalks. There is no need to touch the leaves - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to be provided with a period of rest.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop fertilizing. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. The leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they need to be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September and early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and stored in a dark, dry and cool (13–15° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there are no green leaves left on the plant and will last 6-8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and begins to be watered regularly. From this point on, the period of growth begins again.

Before and after flowering, keep the soil moist and rotate the plant constantly to promote even growth. During this period, the optimal temperature will be 13–18° C. 4–8 weeks after watering is resumed, the amaryllis should bloom.

Amaryllis blooming

The flowering period of amaryllis occurs in late autumn or early winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which there is an inflorescence. Usually during flowering the plant has no leaves. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows along with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without damaging the plant. Adult specimens with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm are suitable for this. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded place, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of a peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on the leaves.

As a rule, the disease is caused by too humid air and waterlogging of the soil.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so the diseased plant must be replanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant may become infected with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and become deformed.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. Treatment with insecticides, which must be carried out several times, will help in pest control.

Problems

• The flowers turn pale. Reason: direct sunlight;
• The flowers darken or even turn black. Reason: damp air and low room temperature;
• The leaves become pale and the flowers droop. Reason: insufficient watering;
• Leaves turn yellow. Causes: damage by thrips or aphids, waterlogging of the soil;
• The bulbs are getting smaller. Reasons: a large number of children, lack of lighting, abundant flowering;
• The plant does not bloom. Reasons: improper care, too short or no rest period, deep planting of the bulb, damage to the root system. The bulb will not have enough strength to release a peduncle if there is a lack of heat, light, fertile soil, drainage and sufficient watering. During the dormant period, the bulb accumulates strength for flowering.

Reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by pups separated from the mother bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the simplest and most common method. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during spring transplantation.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of planting the bulb, and the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom within 2–3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, labor-intensive and unreliable method. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another using a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only in the 7th year.

Transfer

Amaryllis is a perennial plant, so there is no need to replant it every year. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb cannot be buried above the previous soil level.

Amaryllis are usually replanted every 2–4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is explained by the fact that the bulb greatly decreases in size during flowering due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, select a pot with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm on all sides– in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and the children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be replanted– the roots will grow in 4–6 weeks. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

Until recently, the Amaryllis belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna– a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Thanks to its compact size and amazingly beautiful flowers, this species is common in the collections of flowering plant lovers almost everywhere. Wild flowers have pink, red and even purple tints.

This species gave rise to many varieties, distinguished by unusual coloring, flower size and petal shape. There are large-flowered, variegated and narrow-petaled varieties. Here are some popular amaryllis varieties:

• “Exotica” is a large-flowered variety;
• "Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
• "Exotic Star" is a narrow-petalled variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in the large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. Not common in indoor floriculture.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

4 parts: Caring for amaryllis after flowering Caring for amaryllis in summer Caring for amaryllis in autumn Preparing for new flowering

Amaryllis flowers usually appear in the last few weeks of winter or spring before disappearing. Compared to most flowers, amaryllis bulbs easily bloom additional times, but for best results they require proper year-round care to ensure they develop properly each season. If your amaryllis flowers have fallen off some time ago, you still have a chance of success, provided the fall dormancy period has not yet begun.

Part 1 Caring for amaryllis after flowering

1. Remove each flower when it has faded.

   Once the flower has been removed, cut the flower where it meets the main stem with a clean knife or scissors. Make sure to remove the green clump and the thin green stem that is adjacent to the flower.

   This prevents the plant from producing seeds, which requires a lot of energy that could otherwise go into growth.

2. Cut out flower stalks as soon as they turn yellow or sag.

   The main stems contain food and water for the plant, but they will likely begin to droop or turn yellow soon after the flowers disappear.

   They are no longer useful and should be cut back to within 2 inches (5 cm) of the bulb.

   • Be careful not to cut the leaves or the top of the bulb. Only the flower stems should be removed.
   • Don't be alarmed if juice runs out of the cut. This is normal for watering the plant.
3. Move amaryllis to an area with indirect light.

   Most people keep their amaryllis plants indoors while they bloom in the winter. If this is the case, move the plant to a windowsill with indirect sunlight to allow the flower to acclimate to the increased sunlight.

   You can skip this step if the plant has already been exposed to indirect or full sunlight.

   • In the northern hemisphere, north and east facing areas will receive indirect sunlight. In the southern hemisphere, to the south and east there is direct sunlight in front of the windows.
4. Water the soil when it starts to dry out.

   Your amaryllis will likely require daily watering unless kept in a moist environment or planted outside in moist soil.

   Don't let the soil dry out completely, at least not for more than a few hours.

Continue watching the summer section once the weather warms up. Depending on your local climate, this typically starts in May or June in the northern hemisphere. In the southern hemisphere, warm weather usually begins in December or January.

Part 2 Caring for amaryllis in summer

1. Once summer begins, plant the pot outside.

   After the last frost has passed and the weather has consistently warmed, plant the container outside in the flower bed or garden. Plant it at or just above the surface. Choose a location that receives full morning light if possible, but is protected from the sun during the hottest part of the day.

   • Amaryllis grow best in containers that also provide protection from burrowing animals and insects. Growing them directly in the soil is possible, but it will be difficult.
   • Leaves may curl or fall off when the plant is first planted outside, but with proper care new, stronger leaves should grow.
2. Continue to water regularly.

   Check the soil for water daily when it is dry or nearly dry. Water the soil around the plant, not the leaves or bulbs. Avoid watering any plants during the hottest part of the day, as hot water can burn the plants.

   • Keep the soil moist but without pooling water. If the soil is not properly drained, the collected water can cause the roots to rot.
3. Fertilize once every two weeks.

   Keep your bulbs strong and healthy by applying a balanced fertilizer to the soil every two weeks. Use a soluble houseplant fertilizer and apply according to directions.

   Do not apply more than recommended in the instructions.

   • You should see new leaves growing, darker in color, throughout the summer.

Continue reading the section about fall, when the weather cools the plant and the leaves change color. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, which is normal, the plant is entering its dormant period. This usually happens in early autumn. Expect these changes in August or September if you live in the northern hemisphere, and in March or April if you live in the southern hemisphere.

Part 3 Caring for amaryllis in autumn

Reduce watering gradually as leaves die. Amaryllis should lose their leaves as summer ends and fall begins. When this starts to happen, start giving the plant a little less water, but don't let the soil dry out completely.

1. Remove dead leaves.

   Trim yellow or brown leaves as soon as they have wilted, cutting them back near the neck of the bulb. Leave the green leaves on the plant.

2. Move the plant to a cool, indoor area.

   Once the weather cools and most of the leaves have died, move the amaryllis indoors. Place the pot in a cool, dark place between 40 and 50ºF (5-10ºC), such as a basement.

   If you don't have a suitable potting area, you can carefully remove the bulbs and roots from the soil and place them in a fresher (plant box) from the refrigerator.

   • Always remove amaryllis before the first frost, which usually occurs when night temperatures are 32ºF or 0ºC.
   • When stored in the refrigerator, Not store the fruit in your refrigerator in the meantime. Many fruits, especially apples, release chemicals that can sterilize the amaryllis bulb.
3. Leave the bulbs alone for 6-8 weeks.

   Leave the amaryllis in a cool, dark room for at least six weeks. Do not water it during this time, but remove any remaining leaves when they dry out.

   The plant must experience this period of bulb dormancy in order to bloom again.

Continue to the next section after 6-8 weeks. If you want your amaryllis to rebloom by a specific date, such as Christmas, remove the bulb from a cool place at least six weeks before that date.

Part 4 Preparing for new flowering

1. Test to see if the bulb has rotted.

   Grasp below the surface of the soil and gently squeeze it. If the bulb is soft, it may have rot and become unusable.

   If you are unsure, you can try to regenerate the bulb one way or another, but purchase a spare amaryllis in case the original bulb dies.

2. Replace the soil.

   Like most plants, amaryllis plants grow best in some types of soil, and within 1-3 years they can remove nutrients from the soil. It is not difficult to get amaryllis to bloom again if you use special potting mixes. Amaryllis roots are easily damaged during replanting, so if you are not used to replanting flowers, you may want to replace the top 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) of soil.

   • The best soil for amaryllis consists of two parts loamy soil, without much sand or clay; part of perlite or gravel; and a portion of organic matter such as rotted manure, peat, leaf mold, or composted bark.
   • A clay pot may be better than a plastic one, as the amaryllis can bend a lightweight pot underneath it.

Water the soil thoroughly if you replant it. If you have transplanted the bulbs into a new pot, you should water the soil thoroughly and allow excess water to drain through the base of the pot. After the initial watering, you should keep the soil moist but not overwatered as you would in the summer or fall.

3. Keep plants in a relatively cool place.

   The ideal temperature for amaryllis to bloom is between 55 and 65ºF (13-18ºC). Higher temperatures can cause floppies, weak leaves and stems.

   Cooler temperatures may prevent or slow growth.

4. Wait for the flower to appear.

   While a new amaryllis will usually produce a flower before the leaves, when it reblooms the leaves may appear in any order.

   Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and expect a new flower or flowers to appear about six weeks after you move it to a warm area.

• Fertilize the plants, if there are many of them, on a staggered schedule; if you want amaryllis flowers, then fertilize over a longer period of time.
• Amaryllis usually bloom in late winter or spring, but if you recently purchased a plant grown in a different hemisphere, the flowers may appear depending on the season. Once he has been in this climate for a year, he must rebuild.

Warnings

• Amaryllis roots are fragile and may break or die during transplanting. Be careful when replanting amaryllis into a different pot or soil, and try not to touch the roots.
• Apply the recommended amount of fertilizer; failure to do so may damage or kill your plants.

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It blooms exclusively in the second half of winter; it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for maintaining this flower. There are few such rules, but they still exist, and this is especially true in the winter. To understand some of the features of such seasonal ones, let's step by step trace the entire life cycle of the plant.

1. Germination of the bulb begins with the appearance of thick, light-colored roots on its bottom.
2. After rooting, active growth of a powerful and strong peduncle begins.
3. Once the peduncle reaches a certain length, inflorescences form at its top and their alternate (sometimes simultaneous) opening occurs, that is, the plant begins to bloom.
4. At the end of flowering, the peduncle gradually fades, and the amaryllis begins to actively grow foliage.
5. Starting from mid-September and until spring, amaryllis begins a so-called dormant period.

Many lovers of growing indoor plants are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter “hibernation.” Let's look at what should be done and how.

Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for the flower.

Condition during wintering

As mentioned above, amaryllis has a period of active growing season for 7-8 months. During this time, the plant bulb devotes all its strength, first to growing a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to flowering for two to three weeks, after which all remaining strength goes into the growth of fairly powerful and large leaves.

It is not at all surprising that after such a growing season “marathon” the plant needs some period of time to recuperate.

A period of rest is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs for subsequent cycles of growth and flowering.

Exactly like this The dormant period begins for amaryllis in the second half of September, when the plant sheds all its growing foliage, slows down the growing season and prepares for wintering.

The plant itself cannot completely stop the internal growth processes, so it needs the help of a grower.

How to store?

Once we notice that the plant's foliage begins to lose its usually distinct dark green color and wilt, the amaryllis must immediately be helped to enter the dormant stage.

Conditions

The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within +2+15 degrees. Another necessary condition should be the absence of light and low air humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.

Step-by-step instruction

If the flower is not helped to enter the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose the ability to bloom (read about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to force it to produce buds) . To do this, you need to take the following measures:

1. gradually stop or minimize watering the flower as much as possible;
2. when all the leaves have turned yellow and drooped, they must be completely cut off and the bulb moved to a dark and fairly cool place (pantry, basement, not very heated garage, etc.).

I would like to note a very common mistake made by amateur gardeners who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the ground, that is, along with the pot. This is strongly not recommended. After complete wilting of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already written a little higher, be completely removed.

After that The amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil. Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this same planting soil, simultaneously checking whether there are any damaged or dried parts of the root on the bulb and, if any, remove them using small scissors.

After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover and gain strength for the next growing season within 3-5 months.

To avoid damage to a dormant bulb by infections or pests, you can Before sending the bulb to rest, wash it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then dry it. Also, as an additional precaution, you can wrap each onion with napkins or ordinary toilet paper.

1. First of all, it is necessary to isolate damaged specimens of amaryllis bulbs from undamaged ones so that the fungus or infection does not spread to the latter.
2. Bulbs damaged by the pest should be brought into a warm room and treated a second time with a mild manganese solution or with specialized products intended for disinfecting bulbous plants.
3. After treatment with such disinfectants, it is imperative to allow the bulbs to dry thoroughly.
4. To re-wrap treated amaryllis bulbs, you should never use the same paper in which they were previously wrapped. You should take fresh, clean napkins or clean layers of toilet paper.
5. After all the preparations have been carried out, the amaryllis bulbs should be sent back for storage in a dark and cool room.

Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower.

They are not only an example of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. If properly maintained in winter conditions, a bulb planted in a flower pot in mid-February will be able to please its owner with extraordinary beautiful blooms by the end of March.

In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, amaryllis leaves naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a period of dormancy, leaves of amaryllis and hippeastrum begin to grow again, and the formation of peduncles and buds occurs.

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Preparing amaryllis for the dormant period

The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. For hippeastrums, the dormant period begins after the plant has flowered, because hippeastrums can be driven out at any time of the year, and not just at the end of summer or early autumn. Early forcing in autumn or late is possible - then the hippeastrum blooms at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.

But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a period of rest. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The remaining varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum in the ground for the summer, then you need to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.

Leaves are a source of nutrients

However, the amaryllis bulb is not immediately dug up after flowering; you must first allow the leaves to do the important job of supplying the bulb with nutrients.

In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and give it the opportunity to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, giving all their strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. Once the leaves have completely yellowed and died, the plant will go dormant on its own.

Wintering amaryllis and hippeastrum

The main dormant period for amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in open ground for the summer, then after flowering the amaryllis must be dug up and replanted in a pot before frost.

Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to replant these flowers once every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily withstand frost, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.

But if you decide to take the hippeastrum indoors for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature within 10-18°C.

Temperature regime for amaryllis (hippeastrum)

When at rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is about 15°C, but a temperature of 10°C is also considered acceptable, and the upper value is 18°C. If it is cooler, the bulb may hurt, and if it drops below 5°C, it may die.

Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5°C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. A higher temperature than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.

This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, and it is complete rest that guarantees the establishment of a healthy flower arrow.

During dormancy, you only need to water the bulb so that it does not dry out - once every month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into the pan so that in conditions of cool air and excess water the bulb does not rot.

You will know that the recuperation period is over when a flower shoot appears on the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and fertilizing should begin only after this arrow extends to 10 cm. From this moment a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.

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