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How to properly care for catharanthus?

Catharanthus is an unpretentious and very pretty flower, which is better known as pink periwinkle; it feels great in the garden in a flower bed, containers, and also in pots on windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branched and, importantly, grows quickly and reproduces easily. But in order for catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering for a longer period of time, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

The soil should be nutritious and loose.

To do this, it is best to take one part each of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leaf soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if it does not contain excess salts. For growing in pots, you can use soil for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage when using small expanded clay.

Watering and air humidity.

Like all plants, catharanthus rosea loves water. Therefore, you need to water it regularly, but under no circumstances overwater it, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if a flower pot is not placed on a tray with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out the excess water from the tray.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in their gardens know very well that in rainy, too wet summers, the growth of the plant slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may unexpectedly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out. In some plant varieties, lack of moisture causes leaves to curl. The leaves curl into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Water abundantly and within an hour the leaves will unwind again.

To prevent catharanthus from suffering from excessive moisture in rainy weather, do not plant it too crowded. You should also not plant plants in a container too crowded: after all, spraying means a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers are suitable for roses. Your home flower will thank you for this with especially spectacular flowering.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet soil, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high air humidity. Spray the flower more often; in winter it is better to do this with warm water. And also, take care of ventilation.

Location and temperature.

If catharanthus grows in the house, then it should be in a bright place. The more light the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch out, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also decrease. Eastern and western windows are excellent places for growing catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. The room temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal one is 15-30.

Outdoors, it is better to accustom the catharanthus to the bright sun gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Drafts and cold winds can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative of our usual periwinkle, unlike it, it will not be able to overwinter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing outside will die with the onset of frost. Therefore, if you want to admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus next year, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to a warm house. It is better to take even indoor catharanthus out to the balcony in the summer and place it in a bright place. Let him “breathe” some fresh air.

Replanting and pruning - catharanthus and care.

The plant needs to be replanted often, every year, because the plant is a fast-growing one. Some even consider this to be his disadvantage. A plant growing in a pot, which has grown long over the winter, needs to be pruned every spring so that it bushes better. If the plant has become too elongated, violating the intended picture with its appearance, then you can trim it slightly in the summer. But you need to remember that flowers on a trimmed stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows indoors or in its homeland), it is not worth preserving it at home for more than three years. It is better to rejuvenate the plant by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, the leaves reach seven centimeters and the flowers reach five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flowerbed just as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such merciless pinching, the flowerbed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have developed varieties in which branching is genetically determined.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in rose periwinkle are no joke. The skin may become irritated, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

To summarize all of the above:

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and bloom profusely, we must do the following:

• Water moderately but regularly (without flooding).
• Spray frequently.
• Plant the plant in loose soil in a bright place.
• Replant every year.
• Prune annually in spring.
• Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and autumn.

If you follow all these simple care requirements, then catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will definitely decorate your garden and home with its flowers as a sign of gratitude for your care.

Growing catharanthus from seeds

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, in a regular store, or you can collect them yourself from your own plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only an experienced gardener can collect seeds from catarthus on his own. It's all about the temperate climate: in its conditions they simply do not start.

But on the windowsill this is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then you can sow seeds for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to discern. Compared to petunia, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First water the soil, wait until the water is absorbed and only then start sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is approximately 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of sowing seeds. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, we can come to the conclusion that seeds also germinate well without film. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not over-wet when you remove the film.

The emerging sprouts remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear until the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first picking is carried out if the plant already has four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them together into open ground so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to divide these bushes, the intertwined roots will break, but the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down its growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Catharanthus is a “fast” flower. Therefore, by the end of summer it will already cover the ground with a flowering mat.

Propagation of catharanthus by cuttings

If you don’t have seeds, but have the opportunity to get a cutting, then growing it in this vegetative way won’t be too difficult either. The cuttings should not be woody. To propagate periwinkle vegetatively, apical green cuttings are suitable. They take root well in water, especially if you add a few drops of a stimulant. Or you can plant the cuttings directly in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in the spring after pruning, and in the fall, by cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature for rooting of cuttings to be successful must be at least twenty degrees.

Catharanthus and pests are problems in growing.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check whether it has been attacked by aphids. Spider mites and scale insects can also encroach on the flower. If this happens indoors, then the air is too dry for the flower. Spray the plant more often, remove pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat with special products. In this case, a soap solution helps a lot, which can also be used to treat the leaves without harm to the plant. Brown rust can also attack catharanthus. The leaves then become covered with “pustules” underneath.

Caring for catharanthus - just like any house plant, you need to watch:

• If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die, this means there is too much direct sunlight.
• If the tips of the leaves dry out and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in winter when the heating is on.
• If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you don’t have to be alarmed - this is a natural process.
• There are few flowers - cold air. The higher the temperature, the more abundantly the catharanthus blooms.
• If the roots entwine the entire soil in the pot, the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry out and turn yellow.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

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Catharanthus is an evergreen tropical plant that has successfully taken root in our climate. The exotic shrub is quite common on the planet, but the island of Madagascar is considered to be its place of origin.

Today, breeders have developed many different varieties. Some are suitable for growing in a home environment. These species live excellently in warm houses and apartments and delight their owners with long-term flowering. Others are annual plants, they are planted annually using the shoots of the mother flower from the previous year or seedlings.

And still others are perennials, specially bred for street landscaping. During the warm season, flowers are kept outdoors, and with the arrival of autumn, they overwinter indoors. It is these varieties that are less whimsical and tolerate all the vagaries of nature well, with the exception of cold weather.

Among them The cooler type is considered the most popular. It is a tall shrub, growing up to 1.5 meters in height. Blooms profusely for six months. It has large and round flowers with a bright eye. This variety, in turn, includes subspecies.

You can learn more about catharanthus varieties from, and we talked about pink catharanthus.

Cascade

Is it possible in winter?

As already noted, catharanthus prefers warmth and, accordingly, warm weather. For it, a temperature of +10°C is critical, as a result the plant may die. Therefore, green shrubs are planted in open ground when the temperature outside the window reaches +20°C, night frosts and sudden temperature changes have passed. This time is approximately the end of April - May.

The catharanthus blooms all summer and the first month of autumn, and then it’s time to winter. This tropical beauty cannot stay outside, as it simply cannot survive the harsh winter.. Therefore, before the onset of frost, in the second half of October, the branches of the perennial are cut off, dug out directly with the roots and a clod of earth, and placed in a large-diameter pot. The top should also be sprinkled with soil; in this form it is brought into a room with a temperature of +15-17°C, but not lower. With the arrival of warmth, the bush is planted again in the soil.

How to choose a place?

The choice of a place for the future growth of a tropical plant should be approached with all seriousness, because the duration of flowering and attractive appearance depend on it.

Catharanthus tolerates sunlight well. The more light and warmer it is outside, the more magnificent and brighter the flowering will be. But everything is good in moderation. Exposure to a large enough amount of ultraviolet light is as bad as extreme heat. That's why It is better to choose a place on your personal plot in partial shade. And if not, then you should build a shelter, an awning made of transparent film, which will protect the plant from scorching light, as well as from bad weather.

The shrub is not picky about the composition of the soil. However, it is important that it meets the following criteria: water and breathability, friability, lightness, and has a rich nutritional composition of macro and microelements. Also be well drained, non-acidic, so that moisture does not stagnate. The soil should not be tightly compacted so that it does not form a solid lump.

Important. Choose a site as far as possible from groundwater.

Land preparation

Before planting in open ground, the soil on the site must first be dug up, adding:

• peat and turf soil;
• peat;
• humus;
• expanded clay;
• natural leavening agents, perlite or vermiculite;
• coarse fractional sand;
• several bags of ready-made substrate.

It is considered useful to use compost for the development and rapid growth of the root system.

1. Initially, dig a shallow hole in the shape of the desired flower plot of land.
2. Next, we place on the bottom a thick drainable layer consisting of expanded clay, broken bricks, marble chips, baking powder, pebbles, crushed stone, in general, whatever is at hand.
3. Sprinkle the dug up soil on top.

Reproduction methods

Catharanthus can be planted in open ground in the form of seedlings, cuttings or bushes (read about propagating catharanthus by seeds). In this case, seedlings and cuttings are considered parts of annual plants, and the bush is classified as a perennial. When choosing a propagation method, you should know the advantages of each type of planting material.

Seedling:

• can be grown at any time;
• fast and uniform germination;
• low cost of seeds;
• for one planting you can get up to one hundred copies at once;
• There is no need to replant flowers for the winter.

Cuttings:

• cuttings do not require material costs;
• Even an experienced gardener can do the procedure;
• the opportunity to get an exact copy of the plant you like.

The positive aspects of the method of planting bushes in open ground:

• the plant is fully formed and has a beautiful appearance;
• easily adapts to a new place;
• acceleration of the flowering process.

There is an option - to plant perennial catharanthus in containers, and thus decorate terraces and verandas. Ampel varieties look beautiful in hanging flowerpots or in large flowerpots on stands. In this case, there is no need to replant the flower for the winter.

Aftercare

• During the first time after transplantation, young individuals will need regular weeding. But when they grow up and get stronger, they will deal with the weeds on their own.
• It is worth moisturizing the catharanthus with soft, filtered or rain water. In hot weather, the plant must be sprayed or given a warm shower, preferably in the evening. Otherwise, drops of water may leave dark marks and burns on the petals.
• It should be watered daily. If there is a lack of moisture, the tropical shrub immediately signals by rolling up its leaves. And after abundant moisture, after 30 minutes, the unpleasant phenomena will disappear and the plant will restore its shape.
• Don't forget about fertilizing. In the spring, you should start with complex mineral fertilizers. During flowering, potassium-phosphorus preparations can be used for abundant budding. The period of use of fertilizers is once every 2-3 weeks. In autumn, food should be removed. Foliar feeding with an aqueous solution of Epin-Extra has proven itself well.
• As for organic fertilizers, you need to be careful with them. This means that with an increase in dosage, the catharanthus will certainly receive damage in the form of yellow, burnt roots. This will lead to the death of the plant. It is safe to use wood ash dissolved in water.

You will find more information about caring for catharanthus in.

If the plant does not take root

When, after planting, a shrub cannot acclimatize in open ground for a long time, then it is better to bring it back into the house. Dig it out of the ground, shake off the roots. Plant in the correct soil, slightly moisten.

Perhaps the reason is an incorrectly selected variety that is not suitable for planting in a flower bed. Or not a comfortable enough place. In any case, you can try to revive the catharanthus at home. Optimize the temperature and humidity parameters in the room, water and spray regularly. But do not feed while the plant is sick.

Catharanthus has not only an impressive appearance, but also beneficial properties. This plant is used in folk and traditional medicine to treat serious diseases, including oncology. But the sap of the bush has toxic substances. Therefore, when planting on a personal plot, it is important to choose a place inaccessible to children.

Catharanthus is an evergreen resident of Madagascar and India. The herbaceous plant belongs to the Kutrovaceae family, the genus includes 8 species. Previously, catharanthus was classified as a member of the genus Periwinkle, and was even called Pink Periwinkle or Madagascar Periwinkle. It is now known that these are two different, unrelated plants.

Important! The plant is poisonous! It should not be planted near children's playgrounds. After pruning and replanting the plant, you must wash your hands or wear gloves.

Catharanthus contains alkaloids, from which substances that are part of drugs for blood cancer are produced. In the natural conditions of Russia, the resident of tropical forests is grown as a houseplant, and in gardens - as an annual.

Description

In natural conditions, catharanthus reaches a height of one and a half meters; in a potted culture, the height of the bush does not exceed half a meter. The plant has a strong branched stem and a well-developed tap root. The flower is covered with large ovoid glossy leaves, the length of which reaches 8 cm and the width 3–5 cm.

Flowering begins 2 months after emergence, in late spring - early summer, and lasts until late autumn. Catharanthus flowers are simple and have 5 petals. They are located at the ends of the branches and in the axils, collected several pieces into loose inflorescences - brushes. After pollination, in place of the flower, a seed box ripens - a double leaflet filled with dark seeds.

Types and varieties

Of the eight existing species of catharanthus, one is used in gardens and indoor culture - rose catharanthus. It is a compact spreading bush with dark green leaves and white or pink flowers.

Breeders have developed various hybrids based on this species. Here are the most attractive varietal groups.

You can get acquainted with the appearance of the catharanthus from the photos of flowers presented above.

Location

Catharanthus is a light-loving flower that prefers dim, diffused light. In the apartment, pots with plants are placed on east or west windows. In the garden, the bush can be planted near trees or tall plants so that the catharanthus is in a light lace shade. It must be covered from hot summer sun rays with non-woven material or tulle, otherwise burns will remain on the leaves.

The flower does not tolerate drafts, although the plant needs fresh air. The most comfortable temperature for him is + 22 +25 degrees in the summer, and +12 +16 in the winter. You can do without a period of rest in the winter season, but then the plant is given additional lighting with phytolamps, lengthening the daylight hours to 10–11 hours.

The soil

The flower likes the soil to be light and fertile. It is prepared from peat, coarse river sand and forest turf soil, humus, taking all the ingredients in equal proportions. It is a good idea to add a full complex of mineral fertilizer for flowers (Kemira Lux, Pokon, Ava) to the soil.

If in the flower garden where they plan to place the catharanthus, the soil is acidic, it is corrected by adding chalk, lime, wood ash, and baking soda. Adding good humus also reduces the acidity of the soil.

Sand and gravel are added to clayey and waterlogged areas to make the soil looser.

Care

Catharanthus in its hot homeland is accustomed to frequent rains and high air humidity. At home and in a flower garden, you will have to provide similar conditions for your pet. The bushes are sprayed daily, trying to get water only on the leaves without affecting the flowers. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening to avoid burns on the foliage.

With a lack of moisture, the leaves of the catharanthus will dry out at the edges and turn yellow. An aquarium near a flower or a wide bowl of water with pebbles poured into it will help increase air humidity. In the garden, catharanthus feels good on the shore of a pond or near a fountain or artificial waterfall.
Water the flower often, only with warm and soft water. The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist. But stagnation of water in the pan is not allowed.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, with a predominance of potassium, phosphorus and microelements, is applied every 2 weeks. They begin to provide additional nutrition from the budding phase of the plant. From the moment the shoots emerge, until the buds are laid, the bushes are fed once with organic matter to stimulate the growth of green mass, diluting chicken droppings in water in a concentration of 1 to 20.

At the seedling stage, the catharanthus is pinched several times, removing the apical buds. This stimulates the growth of side branches, and the bush becomes more magnificent. An adult plant undergoes rejuvenating pruning every spring, with all shoots shortened by a third of their length.

Every year, the catharanthus needs to be transplanted into a new, larger diameter pot. The procedure is carried out in the spring, transferring the flower into a container with a volume 5–7 cm larger than the previous one. It is useful to plant the plant in open ground for the summer; with the onset of cold weather, the flower is dug up and taken into the house.
After the end of flowering, it is useful for catharanthus to arrange a rest period of 2 - 3 months. To do this, the flower is placed in a bright but cool room. It is not fed, watering is reduced, and spraying of the crown is stopped.

Pests, diseases

If the irrigation regime is violated, the crops are thickened, combined with low temperatures, catharanthus can be affected by rust and root rot. To save the plant, it is replanted, completely replacing the substrate, and the affected areas on the roots are cleaned to healthy tissue. The plant is treated with phytosporin.

The flower may be attacked, and. A small population of the pest is removed with a soap solution, thoroughly wiping the stem, branches and all leaves with a cotton swab dipped in the solution. In case of severe damage, the bush is sprayed.

Reproduction

Catharanthus seeds are sown in February, to a depth of 1 cm, in light and nutritious soil. In a warm place, the plant will sprout in 15–20 days.

Advice. To stimulate germination and protect against fungal diseases, catharanthus seeds are soaked for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, then in a solution of epin.

Seedlings are grown at a temperature of +18 degrees and daylight hours of 9–11 hours, so that they do not stretch out or weaken.

At the age of 3 - 5 true leaves, the catharanthus is picked into separate pots. When the plants reach a height of 10–12 cm, the top is pinched for the first time to stimulate tillering. A week after pinching, the flower is fed with nitrogen fertilizer.

The flower is taken outside when stable warmth sets in. When planting in the ground, a layer of expanded clay or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the planting hole as drainage. The distance between the bushes is from 40 to 60 cm, depending on the size of the adult plant.

The tropical guest will bloom in 2 - 3 months, after the first shoots appear. Catharanthus can be propagated vegetatively. In the spring, when replanting an adult flower, its root is cut into pieces with a sharp and clean knife so that at least one bud remains on each section. The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal, and the sections are planted in loose soil.

You can root catharanthus using apical cuttings, which are prepared during pruning of the bush. Sections of branches are immersed in a root-forming preparation (kornevin, heteroauxin) and planted in a mixture of peat and sand or perlite. The plantings are covered with a plastic bag or plastic bottle and placed in a bright and warm place. Be sure to daily ventilate, water and spray the cuttings.

Partners

The abundantly flowering bush is beautiful in itself. It is planted in small groups of 3–4 plants with different colored buds.

Cascade varieties planted in hanging baskets and flowerpots are very beautiful.

Important! It is necessary to remember that the earthen ball dries out quickly in small pots. The plants in the pots are automatically watered or hydrogel is added to the soil.

In joint plantings, catharanthus looks harmonious with,. Low varieties are placed along paths, in the foreground of mixborders, at the foot of trees and shrubs.
Catharanthus in a floor flowerpot and pot will decorate a terrace, patio, or porch.

Watch also the video

For some reason, catharanthus is not very common among indoor flower lovers, although in fact it deserves much more attention. Firstly, it is a fairly easy plant to grow, and secondly, catharanthus is thermophilic and grows successfully in heated rooms.

But having bought the catarthus, I didn’t regret it one bit.

The plants pleased me with their magnificent appearance, unpretentiousness and bright flowering. In general, I would advise growing catharanthus along with petunias to decorate balconies. Catharanthus get by quite well with a portion of the morning sun, and on my eastern balcony they feel great, provided they are regularly fertilized and watered.
The flowers are simple, with five petals, their color is very diverse: pink, lilac or white, similar in appearance to balsam flowers. Catharanthus flowers are large (up to 3-5 cm in diameter).

But the aroma of catharanthus flowers cannot compete with phlox - they have almost no smell at all.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous.

Catharanthus is an indoor flower. There are both bush and hanging varieties.
Caring for catharanthus consists of maintaining moist air, annual replanting in fresh soil, after which the plant is cut to approximately 1/3 of the length of the shoots. As well as fertilizing with fertilizers from April to October.
In winter, when there is insufficient light, the stems stretch, the leaves fall off and the flowers become very small. In December-January, you need to cut the plants short, leaving stumps 5-6 cm high, and place them on a bright, cool windowsill.
Moisten as the earthen ball dries out, since at this time the soil turns sour due to frequent watering and the roots rot.
By spring, beautiful bushes with numerous shoots are formed, each of which ends with one or more flowers.
Most often it is affected by scale insects and spider mites. Too dry indoor air contributes to the appearance of pests. If catharanthus is kept outside in the summer, it may be susceptible to attack by aphids. In this case, it is necessary to carry out an inspection and preventive treatment before bringing the plant into the room. Atharanthus

Possible difficulties:
*The ends of the leaves dry out - The air is too dry.
*Leaves turn yellow, leaf tissue dies - lots of direct sunlight.
*The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off - a natural process.
Location: Bright, but protected from direct sunlight.

Watering: Moderate in winter, but without drying out the earthen coma; in summer, abundant, but do not allow water to stagnate in the pan.
Air humidity: Spray from time to time.

Temperature: In winter 12-18 C, in summer 20-25 C. In summer, take it out into the fresh air.
Transplantation: Plants quickly develop and bloom; successful development requires frequent transshipment, otherwise the lower part of the stem loses its leaves and becomes bare, and the plant loses its decorative effect.
AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING
In temperate climates, catharanthus is traditionally considered an indoor perennial, but recently it is increasingly used as an open ground plant and for decorating outdoor compositions in an annual crop.

The location for catharanthus is only suitable: warm, sunny, well protected from cold winds. The soil should be well moistened, fertile, without excess salts and have a neutral reaction. Acidic soils must be limed. When growing catharanthus as a container crop, the soil mixture is prepared from equal parts of turf and leaf soil, humus, peat and sand.
Watering should be regular; many varieties of catharanthus, when there is a lack of moisture, curl their leaves into tubes, but this is not at all a sign of their irretrievable loss, as some amateur gardeners think. Within half an hour after abundant watering, the leaves begin to unwind literally before our eyes. Regardless of the growing method, plants should not be crowded in both flower beds and containers, otherwise in rainy weather the catharanthus will suffer from lack of ventilation.

If you use catharanthus as a perennial, in the fall (before the onset of frost), the mother plants should be dug up and transplanted into separate pots. You can take cuttings from the specimens remaining in the flowerbed for rooting. Growing catharanthus indoors is a fairly simple process. Catharanthus will feel great on a bright windowsill without direct sunlight. It should be regularly sprayed with water and fed with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer every 2-3 weeks. In winter, it is best to keep the plant in a bright and cool room with an air temperature of 10...15 oC.
In the spring, new cuttings are taken from the queen cells, and the cut queen cells can be planted again in the garden along with the young plants. In spring, catharanthus branches should be cut back by about one third. However, with excessive pruning, the leaves and flowers become smaller, so it is easier to rejuvenate the plant by cuttings rather than by pruning.
These heat-loving plants are planted in open ground after the threat of spring frosts has passed. When growing catharanthus only as a potted plant in the summer, it can be taken out to the balcony, protected from rain, excess sun and wind.

REPRODUCTION OF CATHARANTHUS

Growing it from seeds is as easy as shelling pears (at least it turned out to be for me). The seeds of the plant are quite large (compared to those same petunias), therefore retaining powerful germination energy.
Catharanthus is propagated equally often by seeds and vegetatively. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1-2 cm in early spring. A plant grown from seeds planted in late winter will bloom in late spring and continue blooming until fall. Seedling containers must be covered with an opaque film, since catharanthus seeds require complete darkness for germination. At a temperature of about 24 ° C, seedlings will appear in 7-10 days.
After germination, the temperature should be lowered and the containers should be exposed to light. The first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after germination. When the plants reach a height of 6-8 cm (usually at the stage of 4 true leaves), picking can be done. There is one subtlety here: if you decide to grow catharanthus in the garden, the seedlings should be planted in pots of 2-3 plants together and then planted in open ground. This is explained by the fact that when plants grown too densely are separated in a common container, severe damage to the root system occurs, which the catharanthus tolerates very poorly, and this significantly inhibits the development of plants after planting. Young plants are planted in soil or decorative containers at a distance of 30-70 cm.
To obtain a more compact bush, young plants are pinched 1-2 times. Pinching should be done not with your hands, but with special tools, since catharanthus juice contains over 80 different alkaloids and can cause skin irritation.
In addition to seeds, catharanthus can be easily propagated by green apical cuttings - they are placed in washed sand and covered with a jar or plastic bag. Cuttings can also be rooted in water with the addition of a small amount of growth stimulants.

CATHARANTHUS IN THE GARDEN AND AT HOME

For a long time, domestic amateur gardeners have used this beautifully flowering, heat-loving plant for growing in a room or on a balcony. Growing popularity
Catharanthus was promoted by the emergence of a fashion for decorative elements in the form of hanging baskets, which were often decorated with this plant. But in recent years, the European tendency to decorate the garden with catharanthus during the summer has become increasingly common in our country.
In addition to being used as a hanging plant, catharanthus can be used as an effective ground cover crop. It grows quickly, occupying all available space and covering the soil with a dense carpet. Catharanthus flower beds along the paths, located in partial shade, can become an excellent element of the garden.
Both low annual crops (petunias, lobelias) and perennial ground covers, such as periwinkle, are suitable as partner plants for catharanthus. Due to the similarity of the shape and color of the flowers of some varieties of catharanthus with balsam, you can get an original combination of these plants in a flower garden.