Fairy tale magic porridge. Review of the Brothers Grimm fairy tale “A Pot of Porridge.” Teremok

17 but I 2016

Phalaenopsis- the most unpretentious orchid when growing at home. The phalaenopsis orchid is recommended for all beginning gardeners to buy, since this exotically beautiful plant is most adapted to home conditions, requires simple care compared to other orchids, but blooms no less impressively.

Phalaenopsis is called a butterfly orchid; translated from Latin, the name of the orchid literally means “like a butterfly.” The fact is that the Dutch botanist Blum, who was the first to find this orchid on tropical islands, from afar mistook its flowers for fluttering butterflies, and so the name was born from two words “phaluna” - butterfly and “opsis” - similar.

Phalaenopsis orchid flowers depending on the type and variety, the diameter can reach a size from 2 to 15 cm. They have an original shape, which is formed by three upper petals, two lower ones and a protruding center with two side lobes and a lip on which there may be antennae. The orchid flower seems to be cast from wax, has a beautiful color in a solid white, pink, purple or red color, with tints and bright spots, strokes or stripes. There are species of phalaenopsis with flowers that have a subtle, pleasant aroma, which can be detected for several weeks after the flowers bloom in the mornings or evenings.

The peduncle of phalaenopsis is long, arched, weakly branched, and flowers on thin stalks seem to fly up from it. Phalaenopsis is also valued for its long flowering; each blooming orchid flower lasts for 2-5 months. In addition, the phalaenopsis orchid, under favorable conditions and proper care, can bloom 2-3 times a year, producing new flower stalks, so you can admire the luxurious flowers all year round.

Phalaenopsis orchid leaves dense, leathery, shaped like a long tongue, they grow in pairs, located on the shortened stem of the plant. Adult orchids can have 5 to 10 leaves. The lower leaves gradually die off naturally, they turn yellow and dry out. To replace the old leaves, a new pair of leaves appears alternately from the growing point. Young leaves are bright green, but they darken over time. Phalaenopsis can grow up to three new leaves in a year.

Orchid roots thick, cord-like, can be green, yellow or white. Since phalaenopsis are epiphytic plants, in nature they grow on trees, snags, stumps, their roots are not adapted to develop in ordinary soil, they need air and light. The roots of phalaenopsis, like the leaves, participate in the process of photosynthesis. At home, phalaenopsis is grown in transparent pots, in a substrate consisting of pieces of bark with the addition of moss, so that the orchid roots are in an environment similar to the natural one. If phalaenopsis is planted in ordinary potting soil, the roots of the plant will quickly rot and the plant will die.

New roots constantly appear at the base of the orchid stem; at first they look like small bumps, then they thicken and lengthen. Young orchid roots have a grayish coating; they like to climb out of the pot and turn green in the light. Orchid peduncles, unlike roots, can be seen in the axils of the lower leaves. The young peduncle has a light green color, it stretches upward and you can see buds on it, which over time can give rise to new branches or buds.

Genus Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis) There are up to 50 species of orchids. Mostly hybrid phalaenopsis go on sale; they are more suitable for growing at home, they bloom better, and the choice of orchid based on the color and shape of the flowers is yours. When purchasing an orchid, the plant is also selected by size. Large orchids have leaves from 20 to 40 cm long, their flower stalks rise to a height of 80-100 cm, such plants occupy a lot of space. Specially bred orchids with average parameters or mini phalaenopsis are better suited for home conditions; they accordingly have smaller leaves, their peduncles are shorter and their flowers are slightly smaller in size than those of large orchids.

Conditions for phalaenopsis orchids

Temperature. In nature, phalaenopsis grows in the hot tropics of Asia. The optimal temperature for the growth and flowering of an orchid is within +18...+25 degrees, but not lower than +16 degrees. It’s good if the temperature during the day is +22…+25 degrees, and at night 5 degrees lower than +18…+20 degrees. Such a difference can be created on the loggia in the summer or by placing the orchid on the windowsill, where under the sun's rays the plant will heat up during the day and cool down at night. With such a temperature difference between day and night, your orchid will bloom magnificently. If the temperature of the orchid is higher than normal, it will actively grow, forming new leaves, but will not bloom. At low temperatures, the risk of root rot increases, buds fall off and growth weakens.

Growing a phalaenopsis orchid at home is easy because this heat-loving plant prefers regular room temperature. For this orchid, you do not need to create special conditions with a certain temperature, humidity and lighting. Phalaenopsis has virtually no dormant period; new flower stalks and buds can form at any time of the year, sometimes with a short pause of several weeks or months between flowering.

Orchids do not like drafts; phalaenopsis needs enough air in the apartment; it is not advisable to take them outside in warm weather. Orchids are sensitive to sudden changes in conditions; they do not need hardening.

Lighting. Phalaenopsis needs sufficient lighting to bloom; the sun's rays should illuminate the orchid in the morning or evening; the plant should be shaded on a south-facing window during the day. It is best to place phalaenopsis on an eastern window, where the flower will receive enough light and not suffer from the hot rays of the sun. With the reduction of daylight hours from November to January, phalaenopsis can be moved to a south-facing window without shading, then the orchid will not stop flowering even in winter.

An orchid always grows towards the light, so that its stem does not bend; every 2 months the pot with the plant is turned first on one side, then the other towards the window. When the peduncle grows and buds form, you cannot turn the orchid, as the buds that appear may fall off. After the flowers open, the orchid can be turned so that the peduncle decorated with blossoming flowers and butterflies is clearly visible. A sharp change in light levels, for example, prolonged cloudy weather, can also cause buds to fall off the peduncle.

Air humidity Phalaenopsis prefers tall, since the plant comes from tropical rainforests, but it tolerates dry air in an apartment even in winter. However, with low humidity, orchid leaves do not grow to normal size. To increase air humidity, place the orchid pot on a wide tray filled with damp moss or expanded clay. You should spray the orchid carefully so that the droplets do not fall on the flowers.

Phalaenopsis - home care

Placing an orchid in the house and providing the plant with the most favorable conditions does not mean that the phalaenopsis will bloom luxuriously when cared for like ordinary indoor flowers. An orchid requires special care when grown at home; the choice of pot, substrate, planting, watering and fertilizing of a home phalaenopsis orchid has its own characteristics.

Planting phalaenopsis carried out in transparent pots with large drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic transparent pots are convenient to use for growing orchids; you will see the condition of the roots and substrate, and also determine the time when it is time to water the orchid. An orchid is replanted as needed, when the roots become cramped in the pot and the substrate loses its properties - it turns green or becomes moldy. Usually an orchid is replanted after 2-3 years; the plant painfully endures damage to its fragile thick roots.

To plant phalaenopsis, use pieces of bark with the addition of sphagnum moss and a small part of charcoal. Since in nature phalaenopsis grow on trees in the forks of branches, settling on bark with moss, their roots need access to air and light. Usually they use boiled pine bark with pieces 1-2 cm in size. Having placed the orchid roots in a pot, they are covered with pieces of bark on top and the surface is covered with sphagnum moss.

Watering phalaenopsis also has its own characteristics. The thick roots of the orchid do not tolerate constant humidity; they need access to air, so when growing at home, the orchid is grown in a substrate made from pieces of bark. In the tropical forest it often rains, washing the plants with warm, soft water. At home, you should also water the orchid with soft filtered water heated to a temperature of about 35 degrees, i.e. warm to the touch. Warm watering activates the growth of leaves, peduncles and the formation of buds in the orchid.

Water the phalaenopsis by immersing the pot in water to the top for 15 minutes, during which time the roots of the plant will be saturated with water and pieces of bark will absorb moisture, and then gradually release it to the plant. Having taken out the pot, the water from it should completely drain through the drainage holes, then the plant can be returned to its original place.

You need to water the orchid only after the moisture has completely evaporated from the pot; you can tell by the fact that the droplets disappear on the transparent walls. It is better to water phalaenopsis less often than more often; usually, the procedure of immersing the pot in water is carried out once every 3-4 days in the summer or once a week in the winter.

Fertilizer. In nature, phalaenopsis has limited access to nutrients, receiving most of it from water and air. When growing in an artificial environment, we have the opportunity to give the plants additional fertilizers, but for orchids, fertilizers for ordinary flowers that grow on the ground are not suitable. For orchids, there are special fertilizers with the required ratio and concentration of nutrients, which must be applied strictly after a certain period of time. The orchid needs additional feeding during the period of peduncle growth and bud formation, but as soon as the first flower opens, you cannot water the orchid with fertilizer. Excess nutrients can lead to bud drop and fatty leaves.

Phalaenopsis are epiphytic, some species are lithophytic plants. Epiphytes grow on trees, lithophytes settle among stones. The natural habitat of phalaenopsis is a humid tropical climate. The name translates as “night butterfly”. Phalaenopsis flowers really resemble fluttering butterflies.

Botanical description

Phalaenopsis belongs to the orchid family. They are classified as a separate genus, consisting of 70 main varieties. The bulk of plants in stores are artificially bred hybrid varieties. By structure they are monopodial orchids (have one growth point). Peduncles and aerial roots grow from the axils of the leaves. The following structural features are characteristic.

Aerial roots. The outer layer is a porous hygroscopic fabric that absorbs and retains moisture. Due to the content of chlorophyll they acquire a green color. The root system is directly involved in photosynthesis.
The leaves are wide, evergreen. An adult plant grows from four to six leaves at a time. Healthy foliage is a pleasant olive green color, sometimes with a marbled pattern.
Peduncle axillary, branched. It reaches 80 cm in length. They can be inclined or upright. The number of flowers on one peduncle is from 3 to 20 pieces.
The flowers are large and of different colors. White, pink, cream, purple shades are common. Variegated and multi-colored varieties have been developed. Some flowers emit a pleasant aroma.

Sometimes you can find blue phalaenopsis on sale. There are no blue phalaenopsis. What is passed off as a rarity is a standard variety with white flowers, treated with chemical dyes. During the second flowering, the flowers will be white with bluish streaks, and during the third - pure white.

Common varieties

Not all species are suitable for growing indoors. Some are too capricious, others grow only in greenhouses. But each variety has additional varieties. Sit down the following popular types of phalaenopsis orchids.

Phalaenopsis Gigantea. It differs from other species in having unusually large leaves. It blooms profusely with small flowers of different colors. The aroma contains citrus notes.
Phalaenopsis equina. Blooms almost all year round. The peduncle is not very long, branched, and abundantly strewn with buds. The flowers are small, delicate pink.
Phalaenopsis Amabilis. Large flowers with a very pleasant aroma. They don't fade for a long time. The coloring is varied. One of the species actively used for breeding work.
Phalaenopsis Lüdemann. The flowers are small and have original colors. Purple specks are densely scattered on a pink or purple background. The aroma is delicate, very pleasant. Flowering is long due to the alternate opening of flowers.
Phalaenopsis pink. Compact orchid with a short, curved peduncle. The leaves are dark with a reddish tint. The flowers are small, bright pink or white.

Caring for all types of phalaenopsis is approximately the same. Only the timing of flowering differs, so the periods of flowering and active growth will occur at different times.

Buying phalaenopsis and adapting it

Growing a phalaenopsis orchid at home begins with choosing a seedling. The further intensity of growth largely depends on the correctness of choice and adaptation conditions.

Criterias of choice

You need to buy phalaenopsis in flower shops, and not from hand. If possible, it is advisable to confirm the delivery date. Often store sellers do not care for plants correctly. This leads to disease and even death of the plant. What else should you pay attention to when buying phalaenopsis?

Content. Plant shelves should be clean, dry, and without water under the pots. Excess fluid leaking out indicates overwatering. In summer this is acceptable, but in winter it is fraught with rot.
Soil condition. Phalaenopsis will be easier to transport if the soil is dry. The standard substrate is coniferous bark or sphagnum. The substrate should not be too dense. Look for mold.
Pot. Choose phalaenopsis in a transparent plastic container. The roots are better visible through the transparent plastic.
Sustainability. Gently grasp the orchid at the base of the stem and move it slightly. It should sit well in the pot. Instability indicates a recent transplant - such a plant may not take root.
Roots. Normally, the roots are dense and elastic. In dry soil the roots are light, in wet soil they are green. A brown or gray tint indicates problems with the root system.
Pseudobulbs. It is not recommended to buy a plant with wilted, shriveled pseudobulbs.
Leaves. A healthy phalaenopsis has dense, elastic leaves with a uniform green color. A very bright color with an intense glossy sheen may indicate an excessive amount of nitrogen fertilizer. This is fraught with problems with flowering.
Pests. Carefully inspect the plant for signs of pests. Look at the underside of the sheet.

It is not recommended to buy phalaenopsis in winter, when the outside temperature is below 0˚C. The flower may not survive transportation. Even short-term exposure to subzero temperatures will complicate adaptation to the apartment.

Adaptation to apartment conditions

How to care for a phalaenopsis orchid after purchasing? Phalaenopsis must get used to new conditions and go through a period of adaptation. At this time he needs special care.

Package. For the first 24 hours, the transparent packaging is not removed. It smoothes out sudden changes in humidity and temperature.
Place. Place in a slightly shaded place, protected from sunlight and drafts.
Watering. For the first week, phalaenopsis is not watered. In stores they are watered generously. In the depths of the pot, the substrate may be damp. In winter, watering begins ten days after purchase.
Quarantine. They endure a ten-day quarantine. Phalaenopsis is kept separately from other indoor plants.
First feeding. Performed every three weeks in summer, every month in winter. In store conditions, all plants receive large doses of fertilizers to maintain their presentation.

If the soil condition is unsatisfactory, the flower is poorly secured in the pot, the phalaenopsis orchid needs to be replanted. Use a transparent plastic pot and make as many drainage holes in it as possible - not only at the bottom, but also on the walls. Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid in a pot, if it is transparent, is easier - you can inspect the roots at any time and notice their rotting in time.

Basics of care

Judging by the reviews, even beginners do not have any serious difficulties with care. The only requirement is to adhere to the recommended microclimate and basic rules.

Lighting. Bright, long-lasting, but diffuse. Daylight hours are about 12 hours. During the dark winter months, additional lighting is installed. Once every ten days, the phalaenopsis is turned with its other side towards the light for uniform development. During the period of bud formation, the flower is not disturbed.
Temperature. In summer they maintain a temperature range of 20-25˚С, in winter 18-20˚С. Achieve daily temperature fluctuations within 5-7˚С. Protects from cold drafts and heat. In warm weather, you can take phalaenopsis outside or onto the balcony.
Watering. One of the main requirements is to properly water the phalaenopsis orchid. Between waterings, the soil should dry to the bottom. Watering is specific - the pot is immersed in warm water for 15–20 minutes. An indicator of sufficient moisture saturation is the green color of the roots. Place the pot on a wire rack, allow excess liquid to drain, and return the orchid to its place. During flowering, use the standard watering method.
Humidity. The minimum humidity level is 40%. When spraying, do not allow water to accumulate in the leaf axils. This inevitably leads to decay. It is better to spray the air around the phalaenopsis than the plant itself. Periodically, the orchid is bathed in the shower. After bathing, wipe the leaves dry.
Feeding. Specialized fertilizers for orchids are used. Frequency - weekly when the concentration of the drug is halved. You can feed with the Kemira universal mineral complex. Concentration - 1 g per liter of water.
The soil. The substrate is made from crushed pine bark, and a smaller amount of charcoal, perlite and sphagnum is added. The proportions of additives depend on the microclimate of the apartment. At low air humidity, sphagnum occupies a third of the total soil volume. Its task is to absorb water during watering, then gradually release it to the roots. In conditions of high humidity, the content of sphagnum in the soil mixture is reduced to a minimum.
Transfer. Rarely replanted. The signal for replanting is caking of the soil, its salinization, souring, decomposition, and tightness of the root system. Flower growers do not recommend replanting a blooming phalaenopsis orchid - wait until the end of flowering.

For watering and spraying, use soft, clean water. Preferably - melt or rain. Tap water must first be left to stand for two days. Some gardeners water phalaenopsis and other orchids with distilled water.

Reasons for lack of flowering

If the phalaenopsis does not bloom, it means that the conditions of maintenance or care have been violated. This is a plant with a pronounced seasonality. In the life of phalaenopsis, periods of active growth and dormancy continuously occur. Lack of flowering may be caused by the fact that the conditions of the dormant period are not met. And also with the following factors.

Lack of light. Phalaenopsis is placed in a well-lit place, protected from the sun. In autumn, winter and early spring they are illuminated with artificial light lamps. Light is an important condition for the formation of flower buds.
Excess fertilizer. Regular application of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content stimulates the growth of phalaenopsis, but slows down the process of peduncle formation. It is better to stop fertilizing before flowering.
There are no daily temperature fluctuations. Temperature fluctuations between day and night should be 5-7˚C.

In nature, orchids adapt to variable weather conditions. After a short stay in unfavorable conditions, they begin to bloom. To stimulate flowering, they resort to the method of “artificial stress”. The temperature is reduced to 16-18˚C, fertilizing is eliminated, and watering is kept to a minimum. Phalaenopsis stays in such conditions for one and a half to two months. The orchid perceives the resumption of normal care as a signal to bloom.

Care after flowering

After flowering, a number of changes occur with the phalaenopsis orchid - the peduncle begins to dry out, the plant prepares for a period of rest. But this doesn't always happen. Sometimes the peduncle remains green. This means that new flowers may appear on it.

Feed with phosphorus, potassium and wait a little. If nothing happens within two to three weeks, cut the flower stalk back to the first dormant bud. Pruning stimulates their awakening and side shoots with buds will appear.

If the peduncle quickly turns brown and shrivels, it is better to prune the phalaenopsis immediately after flowering. Pruning is carried out with a sharp sterile pruning shears. The sections are treated with ground cinnamon, charcoal powder or brilliant green. Hollow flower stalks are covered with beeswax.

Experienced gardeners warn that repeated flowering weakens phalaenopsis. Lack of rest leads to a shortening of the plant's life.

Reproduction methods

Phalaenopsis is more difficult to propagate than some other types of orchids. It belongs to the monopodial type of orchids - it has only one growth point. Propagation material can only be taken from mature, healthy plants that are not damaged by fungus, insects, or rot.

Children

Peculiarities. Children are formed on the peduncle. You can separate them a couple of months after the end of flowering. The formation of children is typical for orchids at least two years old. The shoot can be separated after the appearance of roots or at least two leaves.

Step-by-step instruction

Carefully cut off the baby. Treat the cuts with charcoal powder. Dry the baby for a day in a ventilated, shaded place.
Fill disposable cups with bark and sphagnum soil. Grind the soil first. Moisten the substrate.
Dilute Kornevin according to the instructions. Dip the cut of the baby in the solution and plant it in the prepared soil.
Create greenhouse conditions - cover the young plant with film or a jar. Place in a bright place with a temperature of 23-25˚C, systematically moisten and ventilate.

Before transplanting into a pot, a young phalaenopsis must grow roots of at least 5 cm. The initial growth period takes about a year.

Rooting cuttings

Peculiarities. If the children have not formed, you can root parts of the peduncle. No more than two to three months should pass from the moment of flowering. Cuttings cut later will not take root even with the use of growth stimulants and root formers.

Step-by-step instruction

Cut off the peduncle at the base. Treat the cuts with charcoal powder or cinnamon. Cover the stump of the peduncle with beeswax.
Cut the peduncle into 7 cm cuttings. Leave one or two buds on each section.
Moisten crushed sphagnum moisten moderately with a growth stimulator solution. Lay the pieces horizontally on the moss.
Cover the container with film. Maintain a temperature of 25-28˚C, keep in good light with a humidity of about 70%. Periodically spray the moss with a root formation stimulator.
When the roots grow to 5 cm, the first pair of leaves appears, plant the rooted cuttings in separate pots.

Reproduction by peduncle segments is a process of forced formation of children.

Division

Peculiarities. Even experienced gardeners rarely resort to division. The probability of phalaenopsis death is too high. Divide only large, mature, healthy plants at least four years old. The minimum number of leaves on a stem is six.

Step-by-step instruction

Disinfect a sharp knife. Carefully cut off the top. The cutting location is the middle of the plant. There should be two to four leaves left on the mother plant. Treat the cuts with charcoal powder.
Plant the top in a dry substrate of bark and sphagnum. Spray the soil periodically with a growth stimulator, maintain the temperature up to 25˚C, humidity up to 50%.
After the young leaves appear, transplant into a pot.

Provide pruned phalaenopsis with enhanced care. Additional lighting and regular feeding are required. After two to three months, buds should form just below the cut site, from which new shoots will appear over time. It takes at least a year and a half to restore phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis seeds are not used for propagation. It is almost impossible to create conditions for their germination. They are germinated in glass chemical flasks filled with a special liquid substrate. An important component of success is complete sterility. It can only be provided in the laboratory.

Diseases and treatments

The main diseases of the phalaenopsis orchid are fusarium, urticaria, and bortritis. These are infectious diseases that cause rot, leading to the death of the plant. Seen infrequently. The main reason is the purchase of already infected phalaenopsis. General signs are that the leaves wither, black spots appear, the root system rots, and the flowers fall off.

Treatment of phalaenopsis orchids is a combination of normalization of living conditions with treatment with fungicides and bactericidal preparations. You can use “Topsin-M” or “Fundazol”. Reduce watering, keep the phalaenopsis in a warm room, and ensure constant air circulation.

Subject to attacks by pests. Yellow leaves and leaf drop indicate mealybugs. The appearance of a silvery web is a sign of a spider mite. The scale will be identified by sticky leaves and the appearance of light dots on their surface. All insects are treated with insecticides - “Inta-vir”, “Aktellik”, “Aktara”.

Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid is not easy, but interesting. If you are just starting to get interested in orchids, then every day you will discover something new for yourself - interesting features, beautiful varieties and different scents.

Phalaenopsis flowers (lat. Phalaenopsis)- herbaceous plants of the Vanda tribe of the Orchid family, native to the rainforests of Australia, Southeast Asia and the Philippines. Phalaenopsis orchids are mostly epiphytes because they grow on trees, but sometimes they also grow on rocks. The first phalaenopsis on one of the Moluccas islands was discovered by the German naturalist Georg Rumph, but the flower received its name from Karl Blum, director of the Leiden Botanical Garden, who, looking at the exotic orchid through binoculars, mistook it for a butterfly, and therefore called it phalaenopsis - “like a moth.” And to this day, flower growers call these flowers “butterfly orchids.”

The Phalaenopsis genus has about seventy species. The phalaenopsis flower, which is sold in flower shops, is incredibly popular not only because of its exquisite and extraordinary beauty, but also because growing and maintaining phalaenopsis does not cause trouble and does not require costs.

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Planting and caring for phalaenopsis (in brief)

Bloom: any time from 2 to 6 months.
Lighting: bright diffused light (windows of western, eastern or north-eastern orientation) or light partial shade.
Temperature: maximum – 42 ˚C, minimum – 12 ˚C, comfortable – within 15-25 ˚.
Watering: after the soil has completely dried.
Air humidity: 30-40% with good ventilation of the room.
Feeding: solution of complete mineral fertilizer weekly.
Rest period: not clearly expressed.
Transfer: as the substrate sours and cakes, approximately once every 2-4 years.
Reproduction: vegetatively (by side shoots).
Pests: mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, scale insects, slugs.
Diseases: fusarium, rust, anthracnose, spotting, black, brown, gray and root rot.

Read more about growing phalaenopsis below.

Phalaenopsis orchid - growing features

Any plant has its own preferences, and even more so for such a rare flower in our latitudes. The peculiarities of growing phalaenopsis are due precisely to the fact that they come from humid mountain and lowland forests, where they grow on trees, and therefore require a microclimate, which must be created artificially in our homes.

Here are some features of phalaenopsis:

the pot and soil in which the phalaenopsis grows are required almost exclusively as support;
Phalaenopsis roots should be in the air and in the light;
Phalaenopsis roots are green, in nature they receive moisture and rainwater from the atmosphere, and food comes from the bark of the trees on which the flower grows. The roots participate in photosynthesis, so they must be exposed to light;
In addition to ordinary roots, phalaenopsis has aerial roots that branch in constant search for food, so make sure that they do not climb into neighboring pots.

The succulent leaves of phalaenopsis, arranged in two rows, form a basal rosette. Peduncles are long, curved, butterfly flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences. The variety of colors is amazing: purple, lilac, white, yellow, green and red, brown... Often the lip of a flower stands out against the background of the petals (plain, tiger, mesh or striped) with a contrasting color. Phalaenopsis, like vandas and dendrobiums, are monopodial orchids, that is, they do not form bulbs.

The most pleasant feature of phalaenopsis is that they do not have a pronounced dormant period: their flowers bloom twice a year - in spring and autumn, although persistent flower growers achieve three blooms.

Caring for phalaenopsis at home

How to care for phalaenopsis

Caring for phalaenopsis consists of choosing a place for the flower, properly organized watering, fertilizing, temperature conditions and protection from pests and diseases. It is best to place a pot of phalaenopsis on a western, eastern or northeastern windowsill.

If this is not possible, and you have to place the orchid on the south side, place it on a table near the window, behind a curtain that creates a light shadow - direct sunlight leaves burns on the plant that look like spots on the leaves and flowers of phalaenopsis. Every 2-3 weeks, turn the plant 180º so that it does not lean to one side. But during the formation of buds it is better not to disturb the plant.

Phalaenopsis blooms in partial shade at a temperature of 18-25 ºC, and the plant can tolerate higher temperatures for some time, up to 35 and even 42 ºC, and lower temperatures - up to 12 ºC. But do not test the strength of phalaenopsis, try to keep the temperature within 15-25 ºC.

Air humidity is required at 30-40 percent, and good ventilation of the room is necessary. With insufficient humidity, the leaves lose turgor and the flowers fall off. To avoid such trouble, place the plant on a tray with wet pebbles. Too high humidity can cause rotting of the orchid roots and spots on the leaves.

Spraying phalaenopsis is undesirable even in very hot weather, since water flows into the core and axils of the leaves, which can lead to rotting of the plant. In addition, moisture evaporating from the surface of the leaves can cause them to burn.

Feeding phalaenopsis carried out during irrigation by adding Kemira-Lux complete complex fertilizer to the water at the rate of 1g per 1l twice a month. You can feed the orchid weekly, but then the concentration of the fertilizer needs to be reduced. Fertilizer is poured only onto a damp substrate.

How to water phalaenopsis

Watering phalaenopsis is carried out after the soil has completely dried, but it should not remain dry for a long time. If you grow phalaenopsis in a transparent container, then a signal that it is time to water the orchid is the lack of moisture on the walls of the pot. In addition, due to lack of moisture, the green roots of the flower become lighter. If the container is opaque, you will have to rake the substrate to determine how deeply it has dried.

Do not water the orchid over the leaves, water the substrate, or use the method of bottom watering the orchid - immerse the flowerpot in a container of water to saturate the substrate with moisture through the drainage holes. The water for watering phalaenopsis must be soft and clean: it is not enough to filter the water, it also needs to be boiled. Or use distilled water for watering.

Once a month, phalaenopsis likes to take a shower or wash itself under the tap, after which the plant should be wiped dry. Avoid overwatering the phalaenopsis, otherwise its leaves will become limp and the growing point may rot. In the best case, the orchid will develop a side shoot, in the worst case, the plant will die.

How to replant phalaenopsis

In what cases is phalaenopsis transplanted? When the plant is in the same pot and in the same substrate for 2-3 years. Usually, by this time the substrate cakes, turns sour and becomes unusable, therefore, it needs to be replaced. If you notice strong branching of the roots and their growth through the drainage holes, this is also a sign that it is time to replant the phalaenopsis orchid. This should be done after flowering.

If your orchid is not sick in any way and is planted in a substrate of a large fraction, then it can be carefully transferred to a new, large container with a drainage layer and topped with fresh substrate, the main component of which is the bark of the small and medium fraction. In addition, the substrate for phalaenopsis includes sphagnum moss. You can purchase ready-made substrate Or you can buy the ingredients and carefully prepare a mixture for your overseas beauty: place drainage made of expanded clay or pieces of foam plastic on the bottom of the pot, then medium-fraction bark, then fine-fraction bark mixed with crushed moss. Please note that dry bark quickly allows water to pass through, so before making a substrate out of it, you need to rinse it and leave it in water for a couple of days to swell, then rinse the bark again in clean water.

How to prune phalaenopsis

If the phalaenopsis has faded, watch for a while how the old arrow behaves. If it begins to turn yellow and fade, then remove it without regret, but if it is still green and juicy, then, most likely, after a two-month rest, flower buds will appear on it again. The new arrow must still grow, and only then lay buds and produce flowers. If the old arrow is too long, shorten it by cutting 1 cm above the developed bud.

By the way, the lower you cut the peduncle, the more flowers there will be on the side arrow. In any case, there is no need to cut the peduncle below the third bud: you will have to wait a long time for flowering on the shortened arrow.

Phalaenopsis flowering

Phalaenopsis orchid blooming

These plants can bloom at any time of the year, and depending on the general condition of the orchid and the conditions in which it is kept, flowering can last from two months to six months. Phalaenopsis usually bloom twice a year, but sometimes a third bloom occurs within one year. Flowers ranging in size from 2 cm to 15 cm in diameter are located on the peduncle in quantities from three to forty pieces.

How many flowers there will be on the arrow depends primarily on how branched the peduncle is and how comfortable the conditions you have created for the orchid are. Some orchids have a peduncle length of up to 1 m, on which up to hundreds of large flowers are placed! The delicate aroma of phalaenopsis flowers is also attractive, as well as their color diversity: from plain white, yellow, purple, red to various variations of specks, spots and veins on the main background.

Why doesn't phalaenopsis bloom?

If three months have passed since the last flowering, then it is time for the phalaenopsis to bloom again. But there are times when the leaves grow, but the phalaenopsis does not bloom and does not bloom. How to make phalaenopsis bloom?

First you need to find out the reasons for this behavior of the orchid. And the reasons could be:

insufficient lighting (eliminate the cause and wait for flowering);
the plant is overfed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers (you will have to wait until the nitrogen is processed by the plant, at this time add only phosphorus as fertilizing);
the plant is simply tired and needs a longer period to recuperate (wait a little and then stimulate the phalaenopsis to bloom).

Phalaenopsis flowering is stimulated by insufficient watering using the preparation “Ovary” or “Bud”. In addition, it would be a good idea to lower the night temperature so that the difference between day and night temperatures becomes at least 6-8 degrees. Such sudden changes will cause the orchid to bloom.

Phalaenopsis after flowering

Usually, after flowering, the faded arrow dries out and is cut off. But sometimes the peduncle continues to remain green, and then it’s up to you to decide what to do. You can:

do not touch the peduncle;
trim the peduncle to the height of the branch;
cut off the green flower stem altogether.

If you have cut a green flower stalk, place it in water and chances are a baby will appear on it. If you do not trim the old arrow, then side branches may appear on it, on which flowers will appear over time, but the flowering will not be as abundant as on new peduncles.

Reproduction of phalaenopsis

Reproduction of phalaenopsis by children

While some orchids can be propagated by dividing the rhizome, this method is unacceptable for phalaenopsis. Under natural conditions, they reproduce by seeds and new shoots. But the seed method at home is also impossible. How to propagate phalaenopsis at home?

The easiest way to propagate a phalaenopsis orchid is vegetatively, by separating the side shoots formed on the peduncle or at the base of the leaf rosette. They do this by allowing the plant to rest for a month or two after flowering. Those shoots that have already formed a pair of leaves and the aerial roots have reached 5 cm in length are planted. But don't let the kids outgrow it, as this will have a bad effect on the mother's socket. The separated baby should be dried for 24 hours, and then planted in a substrate made of fine bark, building a greenhouse over the shoot in which the temperature will be maintained at 22-25 ºC.

The appearance of lateral shoots in phalaenopsis is a rare phenomenon, indicating that you are somehow not properly caring for it. Therefore, if your orchid does not have children, you can artificially awaken dormant buds, which will give birth to children. They do it this way: find dormant points at the base of an old, faded peduncle, use a sharp blade to make a shallow semicircular cut at the base of the covering scales and remove it with tweezers, and lubricate the bud with a growth regulator or fresh birch sap.

After a month or two, rosettes of several leaves will form at the site of the cut, and after three months roots will appear. To speed up the process, put a plastic bag on the plant - in a warmer and more humid microclimate, the children will grow faster.

You can get a baby using a cut peduncle: immerse the peduncle 4-7 cm in a 0.005 percent solution of complex mineral fertilizer, having previously removed the scales from the bud in the manner described above. Build a greenhouse over the peduncle and do not forget to change the water.

Phalaenopsis diseases and their treatment

Phalaenopsis suffer from both infectious and non-infectious diseases. In both cases, the main cause of the disease is errors in plant care.

Of the fungal diseases, fusarium most often affects phalaenopsis, in which the roots of the plant first become ill, and then the disease spreads to the entire orchid. The main cause of fusarium, like other rots, is excess moisture. It is impossible to cure phalaenopsis from fusarium, so the plant is destroyed. But other rots (black, brown, root, gray, as well as diseases such as rust, anthracnose and spotting) are sometimes cured by two-time treatment with a fungicide (foundazol or, for example, topsin-M) with an interval of 10 days.

A common disease in phalaenopsis is urticaria, which affects the leaves at an early stage with large spots 2-3 cm in diameter. The culprit is low air temperature, high humidity and poor air exchange in the room. Eliminate deficiencies in care, and everything will go smoothly.

And from a disease such as botrytis, the plant suffers in conditions of high air humidity and poor ventilation in the room, but it affects not the leaves, but the phalaenopsis flowers: first, dark brown spots appear on the petals, then the petals fade. If you raise the temperature in the room, the disease will slow down its progression. In addition, ensure good ventilation of moist air in the room and treat the plant with a bactericidal preparation.

Non-infectious diseases are caused by the use of pesticides, excessive lighting, improper feeding, uneven watering and are expressed by drying of the tips of the leaves, necrosis of the roots, damage to other plant tissues and all kinds of spotting. Find and eliminate the cause of the disease, and, quite likely, you will be able to save your orchid, but you should know that resuscitation of phalaenopsis is a labor-intensive process and is not always successful.

Phalaenopsis pests

In addition to diseases, phalaenopsis and pests also exhaust them. For example, a small insect such as a mealybug causes yellowing and falling leaves. It is destroyed by treating the leaves and stems with an aqueous solution of laundry soap.

Spider mites, which attack any plant when there is insufficient air humidity, can also harm phalaenopsis. The mite expresses its presence with a silver web on the leaves, as if pricked with a needle. If you find a spider mite at the very beginning of occupying a plant, you can remove it, like aphids and mealybugs, with a soap solution, but if the matter has gone far and the pest has firmly settled on your orchid, you will have to use acaricide treatment to combat it.

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The tropical Phalaenopsis orchid, which has about 25 thousand varieties, has firmly settled in the homes of our compatriots. Graceful curves, bright color and shape of the peduncle are pleasing to the eye. Due to its aristocratic appearance, the flower is called the queen, and the name phalaenopsis itself is translated as “butterfly”. So, Phalaenopsis orchid: care at home after the store and other nuances we will consider in the article.

The orchid grows in the tropics on tree trunks. Sunlight hits her through the crown of trees. Through its roots, it collects moisture from precipitation and humid air, and nutrition comes from the bark of the tree on which it is attached (this type of plant is called an epiphyte). Juicy dense leaves of 3-6 pieces are attached around the stem. The peduncle comes in various colors.

In ancient times, orchid flowers were believed to have medicinal properties. Indeed, modern scientists, based on research, have confirmed the presence in phalaenopsis of substances capable of generating a cytokine (“longevity gene”). They ensure the ability of the orchid to bloom for several months in a row.

Choosing an orchid in a store

Choosing an orchid is an important matter, because its lifespan depends on the health of the flower. Some specimens, if all the subtleties of care are observed, will live for several years. The stores offer flowers adapted to our climate, but they also require meticulous care.

When purchasing we start inspection from the roots. Phalaenopsis is sold in pots with transparent walls, which makes it easier to examine its contents. We exclude plants with dry or dark roots. It is acceptable that some of the roots are outside the pot; these are aerial roots. If the roots are rotten and the plant itself is swaying, it means it is sick.

Followed by leaf inspection, they should be fleshy and shiny. Minor scratches are acceptable; they do not affect the quality of the flower. And wrinkled and wilted leaves are unacceptable. The price of a flower will tell you about problems with a flower - obviously unhealthy ones are sold at a big discount. Experienced gardeners will be able to revive a sick phalaenopsis, but for the first purchase the choice must be made on a good specimen with buds.

Place for a flower. Lighting and temperature

After purchase, you need to inspect the pot for drainage holes, and repair them if there are none.

If the flower is healthy with lush green leaves, you should not disturb it by replanting it. Let him first adapt to new conditions.

The quality and life expectancy of phalaenopsis depends on the location and lighting. Due to the entry of light into the plant, the necessary reactions occur that ensure growth, an increase in leaf density and the quality of the peduncle.

It is ideal to place the flower next to a window facing east. A window facing west or south will have to be curtained in spring and summer. If the window faces north, place the pot directly on the windowsill. In cold weather, it is a good idea to provide the plant with additional lighting.

In order for phalaenopsis to actively develop, the lighting duration must be at least 12 hours. The color of the leaves will tell you about successful lighting. Dark green means there is not enough light. The reddish tint of the leaf will indicate excess lighting. When the phalaenopsis finishes blooming, it can be moved to another place, avoiding direct sunlight. If the orchid does not bloom again for a long time, you should increase exposure to light.

From time to time the pot needs to be turned the other way. Otherwise, the orchid will bend, because it reaches for the light. The main thing is not to touch it when buds are developing on it. After all the buds have bloomed, the tropical guest can choose a new place.

As for the temperature regime, the exotic beauty grows calmly at our usual home temperature. The exception is cold places - window sills and verandas. When the temperature drops below 15 degrees, flowers and buds will fall off, and the leaves will begin to wither. You should carefully monitor the temperature of the flower to prevent death of the root system.

Phalaenopsis transplant. Details

Even an inexperienced gardener can delicately transplant phalaenopsis if the rules are followed. Replant strictly after the end of the flowering cycle. It is not recommended to change the pot frequently. Ideally, the transplant procedure should be carried out once every two to three years. Other actions - in case of urgent need: if the roots have too little space, or they are intertwined and die; if the substrate has become infected and a complete replacement is needed.

So, let's start the transplant. First, remove the plant from the pot along with a lump of earth. To prevent the substrate from falling apart: carefully hold the orchid bush above the soil with your hand, turn the pot over and remove the contents. If the pot is not valuable, divide it in half, then it will be easier to get the plant.

Next, we untangle the root system from pebbles, bark and particles of the old substrate. If necessary, rinse the rhizomes under running warm water. We carefully inspect to see if there are any signs of diseases, pests, or mold. If available, treat the root system with a special solution (insecticide for orchids), and keep the roots in the solution for half an hour. We cut off rotten and dried roots. The result should be a root system of elastic, vital sprouts. Let the plant air dry and leave for 2 hours. To prevent fungal diseases, sprinkle the roots with crushed charcoal (or, if not available, activated) charcoal.

Before transplanting, we disinfect the new pot (we’ll talk about the correct choice of container later) with a solution of potassium permanganate. Don't forget to put drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Take the orchid and straighten the roots within the boundaries of the new pot. Add fresh substrate in small portions, compacting in places. From time to time you need to tap the walls of the pot with your palms to shrink the soil. If some of the roots did not fit into the pot and remained outside, it does not matter, remember about aerial roots to capture moisture from the air.

The following procedures are carried out as desired, namely: fixing the stem using thin wooden sticks. They need to be stuck into the ground next to the stem and pressed with special clothespins (advice - ordinary children's hairpins will do).

A special substrate for orchids is sold in a flower shop. If you can’t purchase ready-made soil, you can make it yourself. Tree bark is suitable for this (if possible, find the bark of a dead pine tree). Crush the bark into pieces, add water and boil. Then dry and use for its intended purpose. You can prepare the bark for future use. It is good to add charcoal to a homemade substrate. It will help keep the bark from rotting and prevent mold from appearing.

The best choice for an orchid would be a transparent pot; it will provide light to the light-loving roots. Through the transparent walls it is easy to assess the level of soil watering and the appearance of the roots. Regardless of the choice, drainage holes must be made in the pot. It is not recommended to use ceramics, as the roots may grow to the wall of such a pot. This will complicate the task during transplantation. The roots will be damaged and the plant will become sick.

Plant growth conditions are individual in each home. The amount of heat and light determines the frequency of watering, although there are general recommendations.

In the warm season, the frequency of watering increases. If in cold weather you can limit yourself to weekly watering, in hot weather and in sunlight you need to water every 2-3 days. A lack of moisture in the soil will affect the withering of the plant, and an excess will lead to the death of the roots.

You can determine that it is time for watering by the weight of the container (dried soil will weigh lighter and harden in appearance); according to the condition of the roots (if they have a grayish tint, it’s time to moisturize).

A common method of irrigation is immersion in a container of water (fill a basin or bath so much that the water does not cover the pot by more than a third). This watering time will be two hours. The soil will become thoroughly wet and the roots will be saturated with moisture. It is necessary to drain the water so that the roots do not rot. Phalaenopsis is watered using this method in the morning or afternoon to ensure drying until the evening.

Water for irrigation is used boiled or filtered. The water temperature is several degrees above room temperature. Plain tap water can also be used, but whitish spots on the foliage may gradually appear (excess salts). To get rid of stains, you need to wash the plant by mixing water with some lemon juice.

Orchid blossom

The approaching start of flowering can be determined by the appearance of a small peduncle. It grows between the leaf axils. Its growth is affected by lighting, that is, increasing the light will speed up the formation of buds. No other actions are taken to speed up flowering. All care remains unchanged (watering, temperature control). After flowering, the phalaenopsis will stand in lush decoration for several months. The flowers have a pearlescent tint.

Orchid care after flowering

After dropping the flowers, the phalaenopsis will bloom next time no earlier than in 3 months.

Proper pruning of an orchid will ensure the next flowering cycle. There are unopened buds on the peduncle. They will grow into babies or buds. Care after flowering includes: controlling lighting, maintaining normal room temperature, ensuring good humidity in the soil and air (if the air at home is dry, you can use specialized humidifiers).

After flowering, you should reduce the frequency of fertilizing the soil. If the orchid is replanted during this period, a new flowering is possible only after a year. Leaves that turn yellow after flowering mean that it is time for the flower to change its location in the house. This will stimulate the appearance of another peduncle. If all the details are observed, the orchid will delight you with periodic luxurious flowering for a long time.

Why doesn't the Phalaenopsis orchid bloom?

There are times when a plant looks quite healthy, but does not produce flowers. There may be reasons for this. For example, a flower does not have enough minerals. Their supply in the small pot is gradually running out. Periodically, the plant needs feeding. The composition of the fertilizer for orchids contains nitrogen to increase green mass, as well as magnesium, potassium, and phosphorus for new buds. Before watering with fertilizing, the substrate is saturated with moisture to avoid negative effects on the roots. Then the plant is watered with a weak solution of the product. Frequent fertilization harms the flower.

Stunted peduncle growth is often associated with improper watering patterns. Using hard water and overfeeding with fertilizers leads to soaking of the root (this can be judged by the drops of condensation on the inside of the pot). You also need to remember at what time the orchid bloomed previously. And expect buds around the same time of year.

Why does Phalaenopsis get sick?

Unfortunately, phalaenopsis is susceptible to diseases. Both careless and careful care can provoke the disease. Orchid leaves may become stained and rotten, turn yellow and fall off. Sudden changes in the level of illumination of the room (being exposed to direct rays will lead to a kind of sunburn) and temperature (the flower freezes or “overheats”), too much watering (rotting of the root system) or, conversely, infrequent irrigation - all this also leads to disease and the death of the flower.

Bacterial lesions are expressed in spots on the leaves, initially yellow, then the spots become dark. Wet spots appear on them. Phalaenopsis rotting can be caused by a fungal infection. To save the plant, you need to cut off the diseased areas and treat them with brilliant green, crushed charcoal, or special medicinal products for flowers (for example, Ritomil, Skor, Mikosan, etc.).

If pests (for example, spider mites, woodlice or aphids) have overcome, the flower quickly withers. Before saving an orchid, you need to understand where the pests are located - on the flower itself or in the root system. General recommendations for the treatment of phalaenopsis are treatment with insecticides (for example, Fitoverm, Actellik, etc.). Sometimes the treatment is done with water and simple laundry soap. The choice of treatment depends on the degree of damage to the plant.

Reproduction at home

Methods of propagation of Phalaenopsis: cuttings, transplanting babies, dividing the rosette.

Before propagation begins, let us remember once again that the plant does not like frequent replanting and destruction of the soil in the pot. To avoid injury to the roots, the best choice for propagating phalaenopsis is to move the plant along with a lump of soil into a larger pot. You should not use a pot that is very different in size from the previous one. A difference of 4 centimeters in diameter will not cause stress to the plant. The remaining space in the new pot will be filled with fresh ready-made or homemade substrate.

I share with you some little tricks of gardeners and gardeners))