Simple things Tretyakovskaya restaurant. Restaurant "Simple Things"

" is the younger brother (in age, not in size) of a chain of establishments called "Simple Things". Arriving in the capital last summer, the new-vintage brother settled down very well, snatching up a separate two-story mansion of gray-green color with brown frames and a black roof. Along with the house, my brother also got a cozy courtyard, where, as the weather warms up, an unusual veranda appears, which all the major publications in the city wrote about in 2016.

Inside, guests will find the typical interior of a fashionable Moscow city cafe. The design is modern, attractive, the lines are strict, straight, the wooden inserts are harmonious, the painted cement walls are playful. On the ground floor, the main part of the room is occupied by a rectangular bar and a wine rack, around which there are a dozen tables. On the second floor there is more space, wood and light, which provides additional comfort.

The menu is original and uneven. Sections “Soups” and “Side Dishes” moderate. The “Hot Dishes” set is bloated. In almost every position, chef Alexey Aizen’s author’s view of popular European dishes with an obvious bias towards Italy is evident. The names of the dishes and their descriptions capture creativity, enthusiasm and the main message of the establishment - in the kitchen they took simple things and complicated them, dressing them in new unusual outfits. The food from such disguises turned out to be lively, rosy, but not without errors, and, interestingly, the less complexity in the dish, the more flaws. “Crispy Parmesan chips” looked nice, but tasted banal, bland and not very Parmesan. The “beef tartare” wilted under the weight of capers, of which there were too many, and when the meat collided with crispy, burnt black bread croutons, a persistent and annoying bitterness immediately jumped out onto the platform. In the Grilled Beef Salad with Cilantro, Mint and Coconut Milk Sauce, three small, lukewarm pieces of tough, bland beef tried unsuccessfully to find common ground with fresh cucumbers, onions and a yogurt sauce that had not even a hint of flavor. there was no coconut. And for some reason, the entire structure was filled with fresh basil and mint leaves. The aroma and taste from the greens were so strong that even when mixing everything together, nothing but mint and basil was felt in the dish. But “Tomato soup with toasted country bread” turned out decent. There is a lot of taste, moderate acidity, welcoming sweetness, desirable pieces of bread, colorful spices. I was also pleased with the “Profiteroles with spicy rabbit, figs and pink pepper” - unusual, juicy and satisfying. The taste is rich, slightly creamy and moderately sweet, but there is a nuance: it is better to immediately move the red pepper balls to the edge of the plate, or even better, off the edge of the plate onto a napkin, otherwise they will ruin the whole impression. “Risotto with porcini mushrooms” also received high praise. The rice was prepared according to all the rules of the genre, there were a lot of mushrooms, a lot of cheese, the taste was voluminous and full-fledged. Another hit on the menu is “Halibut with beet tops and tarragon cream.” The airy, velvety fish hugged the light, original cream puree tenderly and warmly, as in the best romantic comedies, which caused a sincere smile and tenderness. I expected something similar from “Buckwheat Popcorn with Rabbit,” but instead of “romance,” the table turned out to be “drama” made from undercooked buckwheat and dryish rabbit meat. The texture of the dish was too contrasting. The crunch was alarming, and the lethargy of the meat discouraged my appetite.

The service was high quality. Everything was done quickly, clearly, with a smile, with stories about the dishes, and with care for the guests.

The result is this:

An interesting city cafe with an original take on various popular dishes, which lacks refinement in recipes and consistency in execution. If you correct something there, remove something and replace it, you will get a clean five, but so far it’s slightly higher than a four.

Publication from Mikhail Kostin (@mkostin_ru) May 14, 2017 at 2:56 PDT

I had heard about this establishment from friends and acquaintances for a long time, but I first came to Simple Things only at the beginning of this summer. At that time, renovations were underway on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, and the restaurant was surrounded by a poor mesh with flowers in pots. But I still didn’t want to sit inside, and we chatted at a table for two, enjoying the taste of red wine glass by glass, and the coming summer in the city. Now there is already a full-fledged veranda, the tables are tightly packed in two rows, and on Saturday evenings they are filled with young people who ignore country weekends.
For those who did not make a reservation in advance, or who were idly walking around the city and accidentally entered this wine pub, there are free seats outside the veranda. There are still excavators nearby, but they don't bother anyone, and colorful cats run around.

“Simple Things” call themselves a “wine store” and indeed wine is the best that is offered in this establishment: red, white, rose and dessert - for different tastes and budgets, from 190 rubles. and higher. In total, guests of “Simple Things” are offered 60 (!) wines by the glass, a kind of record. You can taste and hear words such as gewürztraminer, nerelo mascalese and albariño. But the choice of food is not great. Baked vegetables with goat cheese (350 rubles) look very appetizing on the plate, and that’s how they taste.

Beef salad with herbs and almond milk sauce (320 rubles) disappointed us. And he looked rather sad.


Therefore, when we got to dessert by the third glass of dry red, I didn’t take any risks and ordered the pie with pears and Roquefort cheese that I already loved. Thanks to the combination of these flavors on a thin puff pastry, it melts in your mouth, and in an instant only crumbs remain on the wooden tray, and your fork reaches into your friend’s plate to try the apple pie with vanilla ice cream. Mmm…




And when it gets dark, attentive waiters place huge candles on the tables, the wind of the approaching autumn strives to blow out the fire, the wine flows in small sips, and the conversations of visitors become more and more frank and intimate...


By the way, every Thursday from seven to eight in the evening, the “School of Wine Recruits” classes are held at “Simple Things”. Without going into details or giving tedious lectures, the sommelier talks about a new variety every time. Two or three names - two or three bottles: enough to be able to distinguish two different Chiantis from each other or a South African Simonsig from a German Riesling. The number of participants is strictly limited: preference is given to those who left their business cards or “liked” the “Simple Things” page on Facebook. The location of the so-called “Just a bar”, a tiny spot upstairs - to the right of the entrance. Participation in tastings is free. Reservation is required.
How to find: st. Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 14/2, building 7, metro station “Okhotny Ryad”, tel. 629 34 94
Opening hours: Mon-Sun from 10.00 until the last visitor
Text and all photographs (except the title one) by Maria Davydova.

The restaurant “Simple Things” captivates with its charisma. The interior of this establishment is dominated by minimalism, but this does not bother its many visitors. After all, hearty and understandable food is served here at affordable prices, and it is accompanied by a pleasant, friendly atmosphere. As time has shown, this concept works great. This place has an excellent reputation and is always popular among the city's residents. This is what we will talk about in this article.

Concept

The restaurant “Simple Things” is more of a gastronomic cafe with a homely, relaxed atmosphere and simple but high-quality food. It's based on the British gastropub trend, but the similarities are more ideological than conceptual. Traditional English pubs found a second wind a few years ago. This fact was facilitated by the appearance of a laconic but high-quality menu (in addition to standard snacks). This is how a new restaurant format appeared - gastropub.

The creators of the Simple Things restaurant chain are not copying the British trend at all, but are trying to simply follow its basic ideas. For them, the term “gastropub” is associated with a number of key concepts: honest food, city cafe, casual, neutrality, simple but important little things. Restaurants and cafes based on this simple concept have managed to win the recognition of an overwhelming number of city residents. And this trend continues to gain momentum.

Structure

Restaurants and cafes under the sign “Simple Things” form a small network of establishments in the capital. On Konyushkovskaya Street near the Barrikadnoe metro station there is the very first of them, which the creators themselves call a gastropub. Here, along with noble drinks and snacks, a variety of snacks and desserts are offered. Lovers of noble drinks will certainly be attracted to the restaurant “Simple Things” on Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street by the rich wine collection. Here everyone can taste several drinks and choose the most suitable one. And in the spacious establishment on Pyatnitskaya all the best is concentrated: excellent wine, delicious dishes (large portions!), a friendly and inviting atmosphere. The creators call this restaurant a gastrotheque and strongly recommend that visitors come to it in large and noisy groups.

Interior

The atmosphere in the establishment, as stated, is unpretentious. However, this simplicity combines style and nobility. For example, the restaurant “Simple Things” on Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street is located in the basement of an old building and consists of three rooms. Expensive simplicity reigns here: white walls and tables, craft paper replacing tablecloths, funny washbasins, as well as many other interesting and cute little things. The interior of this place gives visitors a special, yet unusual for Moscow, idea of ​​the structure of a city democratic restaurant.

Atmosphere

The restaurant "Simple Things" is famous for its light and relaxed atmosphere. There is nothing special or artificial here. The creators tried to avoid any pretentiousness in the setting, service and menu of the establishment. It serves food comparable in quality to restaurant food, but it is much simpler in processing, presentation and assortment. Its format assumes some gastronomic freedom, so local cuisine can be described in just two words: tasty and simple, without additional epithets. A place that you can visit every day is the restaurant “Simple Things”.

On Barrikadnaya

In Moscow there are three establishments under the same name, which form a single network. One of them is the “Simple Things” gastropub, located on Konyushkovskaya Street, not far from the “Barrikadnaya” metro station. Every visit to this place turns into a celebration of cheerfulness. Here visitors never go hungry. The restaurant's menu includes interesting dishes, such as lamb shank stewed in white wine with thyme and mint, salmon baked with pistachios and spinach, and much more. In addition, it has an excellent wine library. Drinks from all over the world are presented here: Argentina, New Zealand, Italy, USA, Australia. Dessert, red, white, fortified, rose wines merge for visitors into a dizzying round dance, from which it is not so easy to get out, so inexperienced clients are better off using the services of local sommeliers. Choosing elite alcohol is a fascinating and exciting process, so any restaurant is proud of a good wine list. The prices at the establishment are also encouraging: dinner at Simple Things costs visitors between 1,000 and 1,500 rubles.

On Bolshaya Nikitskaya

The richest wine collection is presented in the restaurant “Simple Things” on Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street. One of the main ideas of the establishment is wine in a form accessible to everyone. At the same time, the visitor does not have to order a whole bottle. This is truly an original approach to the culture of drinking alcoholic drinks in the “Simple Things” establishment. The restaurant allows visitors to buy wine not in whole bottles, but in glasses, which is very rare for the capital. Moreover, the local wine list consists of products from small but very interesting manufacturing companies, but it does not contain a traditional set of familiar names.

In addition, the restaurant “Simple Things” offers its visitors tasting sets (that is, order three 50 milliliters each). The menu of the establishment always contains sets called “Galloping across Europe”, “White Guard”, “New World Revolution”, “Italian Geography”, as well as variations under the meaningful names “40 degrees” and “Bitter Share”.

A whole series of appetizers are served here with wines, including parmesan chips, six types of bruschettas, sun-dried tomatoes, assorted pates, a meat set, etc.

Of course, the restaurant “Simple Things” (Nikitskaya) also offers a rich menu consisting of a great variety of hearty dishes. The food here is, as usual, simple, fresh and gastronomically interesting. The establishment has a periodically updated seasonal menu, as well as several wine snacks.

On Pyatnitskaya

The restaurant “Simple Things” on Pyatnitskaya is an establishment where all the best is concentrated. The creators call it a gastrotheque, that is, a place where there is a good wine library and a gastropub that is not inferior to it. Among the dishes, they offer home-baked bread, afternoon snacks, breakfasts, new desserts... All the treats in this restaurant are distinguished by impressive portions: the most tender beef tenderloin baked in dough, Wellington pie, delicious pink-gold fish, duck oozing with fat, baked lamb side... It is customary for large and cheerful groups to come here to appreciate the unforgettable taste of local food over a casual conversation.

Wine has a special story here. In the restaurant on Pyatnitskaya it is stored in special containers - huge magnums, named after the ancient names of Old Testament kings. The creators of the establishment claim that wine in large bottles develops and lasts longer. Whether this is true or not, you can see for yourself by visiting this wonderful restaurant.

Conclusion

The above-described chain of establishments has its own unique style and offers its services at very affordable prices. A creative approach to restaurant design provided its creators with stable commercial success. The simple joys of life are promoted here: excellent wine, wonderful food, gatherings with friends in a large company. It is not surprising that the restaurant “Simple Things” is always popular among the population. Orenburg, by the way, can boast of an establishment with the same name, but it has nothing to do with the restaurants described above. However, it has a similar atmosphere: a creative approach to cooking, an original wine library, screening of arthouse films, a relaxed atmosphere... This establishment, without a doubt, also deserves attention, since everything daring, new and fresh arouses interest and sympathy among the public.

In Russia, gastropubs are a new phenomenon and not yet very familiar. However, we can already say that it will be successful among the population, and all thanks to its democracy and pleasant, inviting atmosphere.

Simple things – Nikitskaya
On June 21, a gastropub and wine bar “Simple Things” opened on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, building 14.

We have long dreamed of opening a democratic wine bar in Moscow, where we could drink delicious, inexpensive and fun wine. And eat a lot of delicious things. The end result was the gastropub/wine bar Simple Things.

One of the main ideas of a pub/bar: wine in an accessible form - come, sit, drink.

Our attitude towards wine is extremely simple and consumerist. We decided to move away from starched tablecloths, white sommelier gloves and decanters - the usual wine attributes of fashionable restaurants. Our wines are excellent examples that do not require special reverence towards themselves.

Drinking wine is healthy, beautiful, fashionable, interesting and, ultimately, delicious. We are not great wine connoisseurs, but by compiling the experience of wine critics, communicating with numerous sommelier friends, restaurateurs and wine journalists, we have derived a personal history of wine, a personal attitude and understanding of what is a relevant and modern view of wine. This is a reasonable balance of well-known types of wine, inexpensive but of high quality, from little-promoted provinces, from autochthonous varieties that reflect the characteristics of a particular area.

We learn with you, we learn wine with you, our only desire is for you to come to us and drink. A lot and often.

We tried to create an unusual wine list
First, we took a chance and ordered 50 wines by the glass. Price range: 170-420 rubles.

Secondly, the wine list is based on wines that are not common in Moscow. Not standard commercial positions, but unconventional, unusual, alternative positions; small but interesting producers. Our wine list is an unconventional take on traditional regions.

Thirdly, we deliberately changed the structure of the map itself, making it less inaccessible and confusing. Even if you are not a big wine connoisseur, it will be easy for you to navigate: the first guideline is the price, then the region or variety. There are also special tips that will help you choose a wine depending on your mood, taste, time of day or your gender - wine for lunch or dinner, summer, aperitif, gentle for girls and brutal for boys.

Well, if that’s not enough, a special wine consultant, our friend Vasily Bykov, will come to the rescue. He will help you understand the map, read the unreadable and give you something especially tasty to try.
Our goal is to show you the variety of wines and how they differ from each other. For this purpose, special thematic sets have been created in the map. For example, you can try three different Rieslings from different countries, or three types of Spanish wine, or three less popular varieties. Each set includes three wines of 50 ml. This tasting portion is a great opportunity to try something new. Not everyone can drink chardonnay!

And in a wine bar you can: taste and hear words such as gewürztraminer, nerelo mascalese and albariño; find out whether Sauternes is really better than Chilean dessert; finally understand the difference between merlot and cabernet.

In addition to wine, the menu includes cider, sherry, port, Calvados, cognac, Armagnac, and about 10 types of whiskey.

When it comes to food, we've kept the best of Simple Things - fresh seasonal produce, regularly changing menus, simple and savory presentation, the most delicious dishes - and added small wine snacks (parmesan chips, sun-dried tomatoes and marinated peppers), pates, bruschettas with different fillings, grill menu (vegetables, meat, seafood), and several more “wine dishes”.

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