To see the bustle of life in Marseille, you must first of all find yourself in the Old Port. Since the 13th century, it has been protected (and visually decorated) by two forts, St. Jean and St. Nicholas. From here, boats depart every hour to the island where the Château d'If stands. This castle - as you, of course, know - became famous thanks to its two legendary, but fictitious prisoners, the Iron Mask and Edmond Dantes.
Near the berths Old Port an incredible number of boats are moored, most of them fishing and colorful to the same extent as their owners. Every morning, not excluding Sundays, Marseille fishermen go to sea to fish. The spoils are brought to market Marché du Quai du Belges, also located here in the Old Port. This market is one of the main places in the city, and to understand how Marseille lives and breathes, you must come here without fail.
By Marché du Quai du Belges you can wander around for an hour or even more, looking at the people behind the counters and the fish on the counters, from time to time buying a glass of pastis or a cup of coffee from a stall. Traders are not afraid of photographers, but during the conversation they may try to squeeze a couple of euros out of you for taking pictures - be firm and don’t give anything, they won’t be offended. The market is open until one o'clock in the afternoon.
Le Panier Quarter
Residents of the quarter Le Panier out of habit they can be scary. And it is not known who is more terrible - blacks and Arabs, trying their best to look like gangsters, or hereditary white Marseilles, who do not need any effort at all. However, both of them are rather decorative in nature. About thirty years ago, even police with weapons were afraid to enter Le Panier (maybe because their weapons were immediately taken away from them). Today, the quarter plays the same role in Marseille as Montmartre in Paris, although there are significantly fewer souvenir shops here. But in any case, it is still not customary to walk around Le Panier alone, laden with bags, cameras and expensive watches.
Bouillabaisse
The cuisine of Marseille is huge, colorful and varied, however, tourists prefer any food bouillabaisse. So first a few words about this absolute Marseille fetish.
Bouillabaisse, also called " Marseille fish soup”, in fact, that’s exactly what it is. A huge plate of very strong fish broth with pieces of fish and potatoes. The broth is cooked not only from fish fins, but also with tomatoes, fennel and saffron, and the types of fish used are strictly regulated - as, in fact, the entire recipe. The price of soup in each particular restaurant in Marseille depends, first of all, on how close the hiking trails are. In addition, you can stick some completely unnecessary lobster claw into the bouillabaisse, and you can reasonably ask for 50 euros per plate. Although finding cheaper is also not a problem.
Bouillabaisse is always served very hot, so be careful and protect your mouth. It always comes with a plate of white bread croutons and a bowl of rouille sauce. The crouton should be coated with sauce - and what you get, bite into every scorching spoon.
When ordering bouillabaisse, you need to be aware that this dish is intended to replace a full meal, and does not include either salad or hot food.
Here are a few seafood restaurants where you can try a guaranteed delicious bouillabaisse.
First of all, there is a proven place in the Old Port, Le Miramar. The restaurant staff is accustomed to numerous tourists, but they have not lost their conscience and serve them diligently, politely and honestly. In addition to bouillabaisse, you can order grilled fish here. Justifiably expensive.
Also in the Old Port, next to Fort St. Nicholas, the Sofitel hotel has a restaurant Les Trois Forts. From the windows and veranda there is a very beautiful view of the port and harbor. Bouillabaisse is good here, but the prices are steep.
South Old Port And Fort St. Nicholas there is a former fishing village, now included within the city limits. Bouillabaisse and grilled fish are good at two local restaurants: Epuisette And Сhez Fonfon, both are located right on the shore.
And one more, relatively democratic place, loved by the locals - a restaurant Сhez Jeannot in the depths of a small port called Vallon des Auffes. In addition to the notorious soup, Italian, Corsican and local specialties are served here.
On a note:
* If possible, try to reserve a table in a restaurant by phone - if the place is good, you won’t be able to sit down otherwise.
* On weekdays you will not be allowed into the restaurant after 22.00, because Marcel goes to bed early.
* The grilled fish is baked whole and served on a large tray. As a rule, it costs about 7 euros per 100 g.
* In Marseille, except in very expensive restaurants, there are no good Bordeaux and Burgundy wines. Therefore, it is best to choose Coteaux D "Aix En Provence or Bandol wines - red, rosé, white; good wine is also brought from Cassis. But an experiment with Cote en Provence may turn out to be a failure.
* Pay attention to what kind of wine the owner pours for the regulars: it is almost always a good combination of price and quality. Trust his choice.
East and west of Marseille
Marseille has a very good beach. But even better are the small bays to the east, about 6 kilometers from the city limits. They're called "calanques", are very similar to the Norwegian fjords, but much warmer. And besides, they are declared a national park.
A village nestles among these white rocks Les Goudes, famous, among other things, for tiny family restaurants, and you should visit at least a couple of such establishments.
The first of them, Le Tiboulen de Maire— before reaching two turns to Le Goude. This restaurant works directly with fishermen and therefore feeds exclusively fresh fish - and therefore closes during a storm. There is no such thing as a menu, but it is always very good.
The second place is in the village itself, called L "Auberge du Corsaire - Chez Paul. There is excellent fish baked in a wood-burning oven. In addition, they serve pizza, small deep-fried squid, fish carpaccio and all kinds of pies.
There are also interesting places to the west of Marseille. In particular, the port L'Estaque, where, by the way, Paul Cézanne lived. Near Estac there are bays of the so-called Blue Coast (Côte Bleue). Experts advise climbing the rock between the calanques Niolon And La Vesse. The view from it is worth the effort. On the left, where the La Vesse calanque is, in a gorge of white rocks there is a dense cluster of houses with orange roofs, a tiny beach and viaduct arches. On the right is the Niolon Peninsula, densely built up with fishing shacks. In good weather, the panorama of Marseille is visible, including the basilica towering over the city Notre-Dame de la Garde. Along the edge of the cliff, between Niolon and La Vesse, a narrow path can be seen. They say this is an old smuggler's trail. But you can walk along it just like that.
There is an excellent seafood restaurant in Niolon L'Auberge du Merou. The menu includes fish with anise, Saint-Jacques scallops, and in winter, sea urchins.
From the sea
As soon as you move away from the shore, heading towards the city center, between the station and the port, you will immediately run into the Arab quarter. Don't be afraid, very decent people live here. They never rob anyone, but on the contrary, they cook excellent couscous (less than 10 euros, always). Wherever you look, you will see a cafe, piercingly clean, as befits a Muslim establishment.
In addition, in the depths of Marseille there is a very good Corsican restaurant Le Terroir Corse. The menu includes Corsican sausages and other products made from the meat of semi-wild pigs fed with chestnuts, as well as sheep’s cheese. Corsican stews are very good. And be sure to ask the owner for Corsican wine.
On the market Noailles, near the metro station of the same name, you can see many shops with the Gastronom sign. These are Armenian shops. Armenians sell not only baked goods and dried fruits, but also pearl barley, which is rare in France. If you miss Russia, you can come in and eat - but, just in case, in the same market they sell incredibly delicious Italian pizza.
Two more Marseille markets, De la Plaine And De Castellan, open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 8.30 to 12.30. De La Plane is located on the street Jean Jaures, near the metro station Nord du Mont, A De Castelanne- near the metro Rond Point du Prado. There you can buy a large number of goodies: Provençal olives and olive oil, caper paste and olive tapenade, almond sweets and local navette cookies (Navette de Marseille).
It was very fortunate that Air France launched direct flight from Moscow to Marseille. AND .
And the A320 plane is brand new, and the food and drink is French.
Departure from Sheremetyevo, which is a big plus for me: 30 minutes by taxi and I’m already there.
Another plus is that the flight is in the evening.
The four hours of travel flew by unnoticed over a good dinner with equally good French wine.
And for dessert, two concerts on the iPad: Mylene Farmer and Christophe Maheu, and now the plane is landing...
How to get from the airport to the center of Marseille
The plane landed at 23:45 strictly on schedule, and at 00:05 I was already leaving the airport building.
It's very simple: this is the only late flight and there is no queue at passport control.
In addition, the plane was flying 1/5 full.
Exit the building (this is terminal 1) and turn right.
There will be a bus right in front of you.
He will stand alone, make no mistake.
The ticket costs 8.5 euros.
It takes 20-25 minutes to get to the city center (train station).
Then, at the station, you do as you please: take a taxi, get on the train, or walk, as I did.
Where to stay in Marseille
I booked a hotel in Marseille Escale Oceania Marseille Vieux Port and I can highly recommend him.
Especially if, when ordering, you specify that you want to live with a view of the old port and on a higher floor.
Large rooms, new furniture, view from the window and air….
After winter and smoky Moscow, this is especially felt: the air of freedom, the sea air...
Safety in Marseille
It was certainly unwise of me to leave the station and walk towards my hotel.
And although it’s on the map, and I looked at the path at home, it takes 10 minutes to walk at a leisurely pace.
Having a wallet in your trouser pocket and a camera in your bag, it is unreasonable to go and shoot for a light in the dark streets near the station.
Maybe.
But I walked.
At a couple of clochards sitting on the asphalt with a bottle and some kind of snack on a dirty newspaper, I managed to light a cigarette, although I had to treat the poor fellows to cigarettes.
Declining the offer to have a drink with them, I moved on.
I went with a backpack on my shoulder, a briefcase with a computer and a camera on my stomach.
In red Clarks boots and a red Galliano sweater and, of course, all the attention of the criminal element of Arab appearance was focused on me.
The streets at this time are empty and only me, plus a couple of guys who are trying to ask me something in French, actively gesturing.
I have to speak to them through clenched teeth in Italian...
- Oh, Italiano, get out of here, radish!
Apparently something like this was said.
So I reached the hotel.
A short, already night walk along the embankment - it’s across the road from me and I fall asleep: tomorrow I have big plans.
1. Find and try the famous fish Marseille bouillabaisse soup.
2. Rent a car at the railway station at 1 pm
3. Visit two points on the way to Avignon
Marseille bouillabaisse
Before the trip, I read reviews about restaurants in Marseille and wrote down two of them for myself, which, judging by the reviews and the announcement of the owners themselves, served real bouillabaisse.
Here they are from my draft in the topic about the route through Provence: Restaurant Fon Fon with a “view” and speak well of the cuisine: http://www.chez-fonfon.com (140, Vallon des Auffes), also mentioned restaurant Michel-Brasserie des Catalans http://restaurant-michel-13.fr.
What is real bouillabaisse?
For starters, this is fishermen's soup.
You can also call it an ordinary Russian triple fish soup: first, all sorts of small things are boiled, which even a cat won’t eat, then larger fish are cooked in the resulting broth, and so on.
The difference between bouillabaisse and triple fish soup is in the serving: along with the mustard-colored broth, pieces of baguette, thick garlic sauce and grated cheese are served.
Pour the broth into a plate (a pot of broth is served on the table), spread a piece of baguette with rouille garlic sauce, sprinkle with cheese and place in a plate with the broth.
So, while drinking white wine, we do it until we cover the entire surface of the broth in the plate with these sandwiches.
The baguette is dry, like crouton.
It absorbs the broth.
As soon as the plate is filled, grab a spoon and eat the croutons soaked in soup, because they will now bring you a dish of fish that was last cooked in this soup.
And this is where the real thing begins, which is why bouillabaisse varies in cost from 25 to 125 euros per serving:
1. Number of fish
2. Quality and variety of fish or seafood
3. In places where bouillabaisse costs from 60 euros per serving, the fish brought to you is cut by the waiter. He stands and slowly frees the fish fillet from the bones before your eyes.
And it seems to me that this is the main advantage of expensive bouillabaisse.
Sights of Marseille
But let me return to the fact that I slept well, taking advantage of the 3-hour difference from Moscow.
I had a French breakfast: coffee, a croissant and a little of this and a little of that from the tray.
By this time, on the embankment in front of the hotel there was a brisk trade in live goods: you won’t see any kind of fish here.
Only from the hook/net.
Still convulsing, anticipating his imminent transformation into bouillabaisse...
You can and should bargain in the market.
Marseille housewives meticulously choose fish, discuss something with the seller for a long time, sometimes walk away and then come back again, lowering the price.
The market is the market.
Well, I entered the address of the Fon Fon restaurant into the map and am walking, skirting the bay of the old port towards it.
Along the way I stop and look at the boats in the marina.
Just a forest of masts.
One of the attractions of Marseille is Isle of If, where the castle of If is located.
Which was described in Dumas’ novel “The Count of Monte Cristo”.
Should I go there? What for?
This was not part of my plans.
“The popularity of the Chateau d'If is exceptionally high thanks to two prisoners: the Iron Mask, who never was there, and Edmond Dantes, who never existed.”
But it was opposite this island that there was a restaurant where I was going to have lunch.
And it had to happen that I didn’t specify what time restaurants open in Marseille.
They open at 13:30. I needed to pick up the ordered car at 13:00, and before that, vacate my hotel room.
Therefore, alas, I did not have lunch at Fon Fon.
But I looked at the castle...from the shore.
Marseilles
The city is striking in its tackiness: old mansions coexist with new buildings in the worst soul of Biryulyovo - panel high-rise buildings, some houses are attached to the hills surrounding the harbor in the likeness of swallow's nests.
It is very difficult to navigate in parts of the city that are located closer to the sea - some streets twist in a crazy spiral.
In these cases, the Internet and a map in your phone help out.
is not only one of the most beautiful, but also one of the most hospitable cities in France, whose restaurants and bistros are famous for their Mediterranean dishes. Particularly notable among them is bouillabaisse - fish soup made from different varieties of fish. We offer you the 10 best for any budget: there are restaurants with Michelin stars and cafes in Marseille where you can eat tasty and cheap.
La Petit Nice
The only restaurant awarded three Michelin stars is located at the hotel of the same name right on the shore. The restaurant and hotel are run by the Passeda family, and here you are guaranteed not only amazing cuisine, but also a comfortable homely environment. Chef Gerald Passeda is a tireless creator and experimenter, and even the most ordinary dishes in his interpretation become a real revelation even for sophisticated gourmets. What you need to try is fish, Passed's favorite product, with which he works wonders. The restaurant is located in a quiet seaside area, and it takes a long time to get there, but it’s worth doing at least for the magnificent view of the sea that opens from the window from here.
Address: 17 Rue des Braves
How to get there: bus 83
L'Epuisette
A stunning place filled with sea romance and mind-blowing smells. The restaurant is located on the top of a cliff, and here you can fully immerse yourself in the unique atmosphere typical of port cities. The menu deserves attention - bouillabaisse - one of the most authentic in Marseille, prepared according to an old fisherman's recipe. Also worth trying are the grilled lobster and shrimp terrine. If you suddenly find yourself in this area early in the morning, you will see boats approaching the restaurant - these are fishermen bringing their first catch so that the chef can treat his guests with fresh fish. The interior, cuisine, service - in L'Epuisette, which is the owner of a Michelin star, everything is impeccable down to the smallest detail.
Average bill per person: 90 euros
Address: Vallon des Auffes
How to get there: bus 83
Chez Fonfon
Bouillabaisse, the star of Marseille cuisine, has long been transformed from a simple food of fishermen into a signature dish of expensive restaurants. Chez Fonfon offers bouillabaisse at an affordable price and prepares it just right - using several types of fish, with Provençal herbs and served with crispy croutons and garlic sauce. Fish baked in clay is no less tasty: a simple cooking method allows you to maximize the taste of fresh fish, which is so delicious that it does not need any complex sauces, just a couple of drops of olive oil is enough.
Average bill per person: 50 euros
Address: 140 rue de Vallon des Auffes
How to get there: bus 83
Le Miramar
There are several places in the world that serve excellent bouillabaisse, but Le Miramar has a special relationship with this signature of Marseille cuisine, because Le Miramar is, perhaps, almost synonymous with the word “bouillabaisse.” Le Miramar doesn't just prepare this dish, it defends the standards of its preparation and promotes the recipe for proper bouillabaisse to the masses. It was Le Miramar that initiated the creation of a special charter, which strictly stipulates all the ingredients of real bouillabaisse, and once a month anyone can learn how to prepare this dish from the restaurant’s chef. However, we can talk about bouillabaisse and Le Miramar for a very long time, so it’s best to just come and try it here.
Average bill per person: 100 euros
Address: 12 quai du Port
Le Café des Épices
It's hard to believe, but it wasn't always such a gastronomic paradise as it is now. When Arnaud de Grammont decided to open his own restaurant in 2004, Marseille did not yet have a rich culinary culture. De Grammont, who, despite his youth, had extensive experience in the restaurant industry, including experience in the culinary capital of France, Lyon, decided to radically change the situation. Le Café des Épices was one of the first establishments in Marseille where everyone could enjoy good cuisine at a reasonable price. The menu is very thoughtful and tasteful: spaghetti with cuttlefish ink, scallops in aromatic sauce, Farsi - stuffed vegetables, tender pork with delicious chanterelles and many other Mediterranean-style dishes.
Average bill per person: 30 euros
Address: 4 rue du Lacydon
How to get there: metro, Vieux Port station
Cafe Popular
The best place in to escape the hustle and bustle of the day and enjoy the peace with a plate of some delicious Marseilles food. The cozy room, filled with vintage furniture and decorated with a collection of rare bottles, overlooks a charming green garden. The small menu offers a modest but balanced range of dishes to suit every taste: fried shrimp, caponata - a Sicilian-style vegetable stew, steaks and a good selection of desserts and wines.
Average bill per person: 25 euros
Address: 10 rue Paradis
How to get there: metro station Estrangin-Préfecture
Chez Etienne
There are a lot of immigrants from Italy living here, so pizza is almost more common on the menu of local restaurants than bouillabaisse. The family restaurant Chez Etienne is famous for the best pizza in the city, as well as other dishes typical of Italian and Provençal cuisine: pasta in a thick olive oil sauce, juicy steaks served with mountains of fried potatoes, shellfish in garlic sauce with parsley, and All this splendor is offered with fragrant rose wine from Provence. The atmosphere here is very homely, so if they don’t take your order for a long time, don’t get angry: after all, there are only family members at the cash register, in the kitchen, and in the delivery service.
Address: 43 rue de Lorette
How to get there: , Colbert station
Le Comptoir Dugommier
Brasserie Le Comptoir Dugommier is located off the beaten path by tourists - in one of the small side streets near the central station of Saint-Charles. The cuisine here is very good: from simple vegetable appetizers to fluffy desserts with fresh fruit. Those who love a hearty lunch will not deny themselves the pleasure of enjoying a pot of stewed duck meat with vegetables; those with a sweet tooth will appreciate the incredibly tasty white chocolate cream. The natives of Marseille especially love Le Comptoir Dugommier for its French andouillet sausages fried with artichokes.
Average bill per person: 20 euros
Address: 4 boulevard Dugommier
How to get there: metro, Noailles station
La Cantinetta
The wonderful atmosphere of a lively Italian village reigns here from morning to evening, as if not random people, but old acquaintances, had gathered at La Cantinetta. It may seem strange to some to eat pasta in Marseille, but once you try it in this restaurant, all doubts will disappear: the elastic, delicate homemade dough in a thick gravy will be remembered for a long time as one of the most delicious dishes. And not a single visitor can resist fresh burrata - a magnificent cheese made from buffalo milk.
Average bill per person: 15 euros
Address: 24 cours Julien
How to get there: metro station Notre Dame du Mont–Cours Julien
Le Clan des Cigales
The mission of this charming eatery is extremely simple - to feed its visitors simple Provençal food in a way that is both tasty and enjoyable. The small room is furnished without any designer touches, but with soul, as if you were visiting your best friend. Sit back as the kitchen prepares a warm plate of cod, surrounded by poached eggs and vegetables with a generous helping of handcrafted Provençal mayonnaise, or a platter of Marseille sardines, generously drizzled with olive oil, on a lush bed of lettuce and tomatoes.
Average bill per person: 10 euros
Address: 8 rue du Petit Puits
How to get there: , Joliette station
Bon appetit!
And not eating bouillabaisse is the same as being in Marseille and not visiting. But first of all, let's agree on what is correct - bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse or bouillabaisse? I've seen all three options, and the first one seems right to me. In French it is Bouillabaisse.
What is bouillabaisse? Oh, it's simple, it's not (oh, calanques!). I can explain it in three letters. Strictly speaking, bouillabaisse is a fish soup. But what! 
When Ostap Bender said “Don’t make a cult out of food,” he meant bouillabaisse. Historically, it was the cheapest fish soup, made from fish that could not be sold in the market. Later, savvy Marseille restaurateurs figured out adding lobster and red snails to it and eventually made bouillabaisse the most famous Provençal dish. You can try the soup in Nice, but in Marseille, its homeland, there are the maximum number of restaurants that prepare authentic bouillabaisse. I heard about sixteen, but I chose the first one I came across - in the Old Port, opposite the pier from where boats depart. The place is called La Mariniere. The prices there turned out to be much more reasonable than what Wikipedia feared. The most expensive of the four types of bouillabaisse cost 26 euros. That's what I ordered. And after about fifteen minutes I meditated on the still life of “wine and bread.” 
Then they brought the fish to introduce me to it. 
The introduction looked like this:
- This is a mullet. This is the monkfish. But do you see this? - the storm covers the sky with darkness, spinning snow whirlwinds, then it will howl like an animal, then it will cry...
- Excuse me, but what does snow have to do with it?
- Oh. You'll forgive me for that. You nodded like that... I thought you didn’t speak French at all.
The fish is then taken away to be returned as a finished dish. Quite tasty, I must admit. 
Well, if you did everything right, at the end they give you ice cream to smoke. 
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