In the hot summer of this year, the demand for ice cream is huge. Who doesn’t want to cool down and at the same time get some benefits? Moreover, nutritionists assure that the simplest ice cream is not just tasty, but also a healthy treat. It contains the correct ratio of milk fats and calcium, which is well absorbed by the body. Good ice cream also improves your mood: it produces a substance - serotonin (the “happiness hormone”). It is this hormone that is responsible for excellent mood and helps fight stress.
Of course, we take the word of both nutritionists and scientists, but is the ice cream really that good? To test the taste and benefits of Russians’ favorite delicacy, specialists from NP Roskontrol purchased six samples of ice cream in waffle cups from Moscow grocery stores:
"Clean line",
"Filevsky" (Trade House "Iceberry"),
“Real ice cream” (Russian Cold group of companies),
“Gold Standard” “Classic” (Unilever Rus LLC - Inmarko),
“Glass Boy” (FM Grospiron LLC),
"USSR" (Russian Cold group of companies)
and sent them to an independent laboratory.
Fresh and safe
Let's start with the good news: all tested samples are completely safe according to their microbiological indicators. That is, no pathogenic bacteria were found in them. Laboratory calculations of things that are difficult for the average buyer, such as anisidine and peroxide values, showed that all samples were made from fresh raw materials, without any signs of spoilage. And this is wonderful - it means that such ice cream will not cause any harm to our body. But experts decided to look into the composition and the very essence of the ice cream in waffle cups to find out if there were any extra additives that should not be in a real ice cream.
Signs of an ideal ice cream: we analyze it according to GOST
Ice cream today is produced mainly according to GOST (31457 from 2012), less often - according to technical specifications (technical conditions that can be developed directly by the manufacturer himself). GOST is a state standard that we have become accustomed to trust since Soviet times. Contrary to popular belief, manufacturers often set standards in technical specifications that are an order of magnitude higher than those required by GOST. This means it produces products of higher quality.
One way or another, despite the fact that both of these standards are voluntary, both of them are subject to the requirements of the main controlling document - the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union (for ice cream - this is TR CU 033/2013).
In the documents, according to the standards of which the “correct” ice cream in waffle cups should be produced, there are clear characteristics of taste and color:
The taste and color should be free of foreign odors and impurities, milky and uniform.
The consistency should be dense and the structure should be homogeneous, without noticeable lumps of fat, stabilizer and emulsifier, particles of protein and lactose, or ice crystals.
Minor (no more than 10 mm) mechanical damage to wafers, including the edges of wafer products, is allowed.
Correct indicators
According to GOST, the fat content of the ice cream should be no less than 12-12.5% and no more than 17.5-20%. This indicator corresponds to the “Gold Standard” ice creams “Classic”, “Filyovsky”, “Real Ice Cream” and “Boy-Glass”.
The Clean Line ice cream fell slightly short of the 12% fat content mark. Experts found only 11.5% fat in this sample. Of course, for those losing weight, the less fat the better, but still, the taste of the ice cream depends on the fat content and these indicators cannot be violated. In fact, this means that the Clean Line product cannot be called a seal.
But the sample of the “USSR” ice cream turned out to be a little fattier (14.5%). But these indicators are within the framework of GOST.
Also in this ice cream the sugar content is regulated: it must be at least 14%. All tested ice creams correspond to this indicator, but the least amount of sucrose was found in the ice cream "Inmarko", "Gold Standard", which can be attributed to its advantages.
Vanilla sweetness is a joy!
Tasters who conduct organoleptic studies in laboratories told whether the taste of the ice cream complies with GOST.
The “Gold Standard”, “Classic”, “Boy-cup” and “USSR” ice creams fully comply with the requirements of GOST and technical regulations, although the cups of the latter two were deformed.
Experts described the taste of “Gold Standard” as “sweet, with a vanilla taste and smell.”
The taste of the “Clean Line” seemed a little empty to the tasters.
The consistency of the “Real Ice Cream” ice cream was let down, experts noted that it did not meet the standards
But the Filevsky ice cream caused the most criticism. Excerpt from the test report: “The taste is sweet, empty, with a weak vanilla taste and smell, with a weak foreign (cardboard) taste. A slight “snowiness” in consistency was detected, and very small ice crystals were observed. The waffle cone is deformed, the packaging material partially sticks to the surface of the waffle cone and directly to the ice cream.”
And counterfeit
Only in the laboratory can one understand whether there are any irregularities in the composition of the ice cream, since it is almost impossible to determine this by taste. Using special methods, experts identify facts of falsification - for example, ingredients not stated on the packaging, and therefore illegally added. As well as protein content, which for dairy products must be strictly regulated. For example, according to the Research Institute of Nutrition, the mass fraction of protein in a 15 percent ice cream should be no less than 3.7%. Meanwhile, in the ice cream “USSR”, “Real ice cream”, “Boy-glass” the proportion of protein is less than 3%.
The correct percentage of protein indicates the naturalness and “milkiness” of the ice cream, comments our expert, nutritionist Lyudmila Denisenko. - However, now it is increasingly difficult to determine, because the amount of protein can be “caught up” with herbal supplements.
There is another important indicator - dry skimmed milk residue (SMR). In a seal with a mass fraction of fat from 12% to 17.5%, its content should not exceed 10%. Much more than the norm turned out to be in “Clean Line”. Also, a slight excess was noted for the “Filevsky” and “Gold Standard” fillings. True, experts stipulate that the “Gold Standard” contains potato starch on the label, which does not contradict the requirements of technical regulations, but may be the reason for a slight excess of SOMO indicators. By the way, almost all homemade ice cream recipes that can be found on the Internet use starch. It is needed so that the homemade ice cream holds its shape and is both more uniform and airy.
The Filevsky ice cream had the most shortcomings. Experts found sorbic acid (a preservative) in its composition, which cannot be used in a real ice cream. It is not indicated on the packaging either. These are quite serious violations, due to which the product was removed from participation in the finals.
Who is the winner?
So, only five ice cream samples made it to the finals. Experts calculated ratings based on several indicators: “safety”, “usefulness”, “naturalness” and “quality”.
In second place (with some comments) are “Clean Line” and “Glass Boy”.
The third and fourth places were taken by “USSR” and “Real Ice Cream” respectively.
Ice cream is a favorite dessert, which means you should pay great attention to its composition. Even 50 years ago, the assortment of this sweet could be counted on one’s fingers, and the manufacturing technology was under close control. Modern ice cream is fraught with many dangers. Since there are countless varieties of it, and they all contain not only healthy ingredients.
Varieties of Ice Cream
The original recipe divides the refreshing delicacy into several types.
Often on the packaging you can find the inscription “GOST”, “according to GOST”, “from childhood”, etc., unfortunately, nowadays it is almost impossible to find the taste of childhood. The technology for making ice cream can be carried out both according to GOST and TU. What's better? It is advisable that the choice falls on a product manufactured in accordance with GOST, since its requirements are more stringent, and the specifications imply the use of palm or coconut oils. Accordingly, a product made according to specifications is cheaper and is dangerous to eat more than once a week. Cold sweets according to Russian GOST standards have become 8% less fatty than 50 years ago. But otherwise, naturalness remains a mandatory requirement for manufacturing both then and now.
An example of the composition of ice cream according to GOST 1939:
— cream up to 35% fat;
- granulated sugar;
- vanilla;
- condensed milk;
- gelatin.
What should ice cream not contain?
- Vegetable fat (palm or coconut oils).
- Stabilizers, mono, are fatty acid diglycerides (preferably should be replaced with agar-agar or gelatin).
- Water.
- Gum.
- Agroid.
- E: 102, 466,407, 477.
- Sorbic and benzoic acid.
The first ingredient listed in the composition should be milk or milk powder. Components that come first make up a larger share of the product. The composition of modern ice cream should look something like this: milk or milk powder, cream, sugar, flavoring, fruits, nuts, berries.
Manufacturers assure that gum is a natural component and does not pose any danger to the human body. It’s hard to argue with the claim that this ingredient is natural. The gum can be found on the bark of trees in the form of small crystals. Technologists use it to increase viscosity. But it is strictly prohibited for use by people with gastrointestinal problems.
A substance called agroid is often used; it is obtained from algae; it increases gelatinization and can cause allergic reactions in particularly sensitive people.The use of acids in confectionery and flour production is a common fact. They are also added to ice cream. These acids are even found in naturally occurring fruits and vegetables. And such acids are considered absolutely harmless, but undesirable in products consumed by children. They have antimicrobial properties and are considered beneficial in small doses for an adult body.
Many manufacturers encode artificial food additives under the word “stabilizer-emulsifier”; such ice cream should be left on the store counter, since the likelihood that the product contains harmful “E” is 100%.
What should you pay attention to when buying ice cream?
- Compound.
- Packaging integrity.
- No foreign odor.
- Manufacturing technology according to GOST or TU.
- Best before date.
- Date of manufacture.
- Manufacturer.
TOP 5 all-natural cooling desserts
"Cow from Korenovka"
Manufacturer: Krasnodar region.
Production strictly according to GOST.
It is natural in composition based on whole milk, cream and condensed milk. The only drawback is the presence of an emulsifier stabilizer. Unfortunately, what exactly is hidden behind this word is known only to the manufacturer.
Cost: 35 – 45 rub. for a ice cream in a waffle cup.
"Filyovsky ice cream"
Manufacturer: Vologda
Natural ingredients are the advantage of a cold delicacy. Water and glucose syrup are in doubt. This product is the winner of the Test Purchase program.
Cost: 50 rub. - for an ice cream in a waffle cup.
“Your ice cream” (Clean Line company)
Manufactured in accordance with GOST.
Good composition, except for the percentage of cream to other ingredients. Ice cream is made from milk powder.
Cost: 40 - 45 rub. - for an ice cream in a waffle cup.
"Chelny Cold"
Manufacturer: Naberezhnye Chelny.
Ideal ingredients, no preservatives, dyes, emulsifiers. Production is carried out in accordance with state standards.
Cost: 30 rub. - for an ice cream in a waffle cup.
"Gold Standard" (Inmarko)
Manufacturer: Tula region.
Manufactured according to specifications, does not contain sorbic and benzoic acid, does not contain preservatives, but contains starch and milk powder. It is a safe filling.
Cost: 50-60 rub. - for an ice cream in a waffle cup.
Homemade Ice Cream Recipe
Still, the best substitute for a store-bought cold dessert is homemade ice cream.
Beat the cream to stiff peaks, preferably using a blender or mixer. Then add a couple of spoons of lemon juice, condensed milk and whole milk to the resulting mixture. For a brighter taste, you can use orange or lemon zest. Knead everything thoroughly with a whisk or mixer. Place the resulting product in the freezer. During the first 2 - 3 hours, alter the product for half an hour.
Usually something that is so delicious is extremely difficult to prepare, but not in this case. The 1948 ice cream recipe is very simple and does not involve large expenses (both moral and material), the only “BUT” here is that you will have to be patient.
The first ice cream recipe in 1948
Ingredients for cooking
Milk - 125 g
Sugar - 100 g
Vanillin - 5 g (if desired)
Cream (33-35%) - 300 g
Chicken egg - 3 pcs.
Sequencing
1. Pour milk into a thick-bottomed container and bring to a boil. Then add sugar and vanillin to the milk. Now this mass needs to be allowed to cool. Then you need to add egg yolks to the cooled milk and sugar (precisely yolks, so they must first be separated from the whites). And at the end of the first step, you need to bring the resulting mass in a water bath, stirring continuously, until thick (the mass will take the form of condensed milk).
2. Pour cream into a container. Then whip the cream into a strong mass.
3. Finally, you need to mix the two resulting masses into one, mix thoroughly and freeze. And this is where you need to be patient, because... the resulting substance must be removed from the freezer from time to time (approximately every hour) and stirred. Of course, you don’t have to do this, this is not the main thing in making ice cream, but if you cook according to the rules and to achieve the most similar ice cream to the factory one, then you will have to do it. With this mixing, this sweet mass will turn into fluffy ice cream without lumps and ice flakes.
Second ice cream recipe from 1948
Ingredients for cooking:
Chicken egg - 4 pcs
Cream 10% - 200 ml
Cream 35% - 500 ml
Powdered sugar - 1 tbsp
Vanillin - 1/8 tsp. (not necessary).
How to cook:
1. The egg yolk (as in the previous recipe, the yolk is used, so it is necessary to separate it from the white) must be placed until white with powdered sugar. If you don’t have powdered sugar, but have a coffee grinder, you can prepare it from sugar and gradually add 10% cream (this recipe calls for cream, not milk). Now this should be mixed, add vanillin (this is optional) and put on low heat. Stirring continuously, the resulting mass must be brought almost to a boil, but do not boil, otherwise the procedure will need to be repeated with new yolks, straining the cream through a sieve.
2. The resulting mass should be filtered through a sieve and frozen, but care must be taken that the mass is not completely frozen. At this time, the 35% cream needs to be whipped (but do not overdo it, so as not to make butter, this is important). Whipped cream is added to the mass that was frozen. Once again everything is mixed and sent to the freezer.
3. As in the first recipe, the resulting substance must be periodically removed from the freezer for mixing. To finish, you can add nuts, fruits or grated chocolate to a wonderful dessert.
These step-by-step options for making ice cream have similarities and differences, but the result is the same - the end result is a wonderful dessert, very high in calories.
Please note! The calorie content of the ice cream is approximately 230 kcal. And this is only 100 g of product.
In terms of calorie content, ice cream can be compared to meat or fish. The question arises - what is more useful?
The benefits and harms of ice cream
This question is controversial, which means that ice cream has both of these characteristics. Its harmfulness, of course, lies in its increased calorie content, which aggravates the health of those who are overweight, as well as (which is much more serious) those who are susceptible to high blood sugar levels. In addition, ice cream contains cholesterol.
Its benefits are that it is tasty, it lifts your spirits and relieves stress.
This is no less important in our difficult times. Natural ice cream (its recipes are described above), and even with the addition of sour berries, on the contrary, is healthy, since it itself contains mineral salts and amino acids, and the berries help to better absorb sugar and fats. Plus, there is an opinion that it helps improve immunity, albeit at the local level.
In this regard, consumption of this product in moderation (and this applies to every product) is practically necessary. And how good it is that factories have been producing it for a long time, and in our time, genuine ice cream is made in accordance with GOST (GOST R 52175-2003 “Milk, cream and ice cream ice cream. Technical conditions”). It is unknown which recipe according to GOST is used (everyone has their own secrets), but the composition shows that certain additives are used (stabilizers, emulsifiers, E471, E410, E412, E407).
Of course, if this is allowed according to GOST, then it means they do not cause harm to health, but they do not bring any benefit either. Therefore, a homemade dessert is many times better.
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As part of a fan-based ice cream study, Roskachestvo specialists purchased vanilla ice cream from 34 of the most popular brands among Russians. Among them are “Clean Line”, “Filyovsky”, “Cow from Korenovka”, “Gold Standard”, “White Gold”, “48 kopecks” and many others. All seals are produced in Russia: in the Belgorod, Volgograd, Vologda, Leningrad, Lipetsk, Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod, Novosibirsk, Omsk, Sverdlovsk and Tomsk regions, Krasnodar, Perm, Primorsky and Stavropol Territories, the Republic of Tatarstan, as well as in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
The ice cream was checked for 51 quality and safety indicators, including the presence of vegetable fats, antibiotics, fat content of the product, the quality of dairy raw materials, as well as microbiological indicators that make it possible to detect bacteria and pathogenic microorganisms in the product.
About the good and the bad
✅ According to the results of the study, seals of three brands met not only the mandatory, but also the advanced requirements of the Roskachestvo standard. So, ice creams will be able to apply for the Russian Quality Mark "Russian Cold"(overall score – 5.5 points, Moscow region), "Vologda ice cream"(5.4 points, Vologda region) and "Eskimo"(5.2 points, Tomsk region).
✅ Violations of the law (of varying levels of seriousness) were noted in the products of 12 brands:
-
About the price of fillings
Once again, test results showed that a good product does not mean the most expensive. For example, the most expensive ice cream studied is "Clean line"– upon purchase it cost 72 rubles per 100 grams. However, the overall rating score for this ice cream is 4.42. Cheapest ice cream “Russian Cold. THE USSR". Its purchase price was 23 rubles per 100 grams, and the overall score was 5.12, which allowed it to take 5th place in the overall ranking. At the same time, the price does not guarantee the authenticity of the product: the White Gold ice cream falsified with vegetable fats is far from the cheapest of all tested samples. 100 grams of this ice cream cost 37 rubles.
About taste, aroma, consistency
Top 5 by organoleptics among the goods without violations were seals
Vegetable fats found in ice cream "White gold"(Leningrad region) and "Cheerful Cow"(Belgorod region). This ice cream cannot be considered a ice cream, it is counterfeit. Attention! Another ice cream TM “Bodraya Korova”, made according to a 1948 recipe, took part in the study - no vegetable fats were detected in it.
Also, ice cream does not have the right to be called a ice cream. "Your ice cream" And "Ice cream from Santa Claus", because fat in both products 11.5%. It's more like creamy ice cream.
In the tragic forty-first, the legendary GOST 117-41 “Cream ice cream, ice cream, fruit and berry, aromatic” was adopted.
According to the strictest standards, the delicacy was prepared exclusively from whole milk and heavy cream, the freshest eggs, and natural gelatin or agar-agar served as a thickener. Replacing butter with vegetable spread was unthinkable, as was adding any preservatives or chemicals or deviating from the classic recipe.
The era of the legendary Soviet ice cream ended in the nineties, it was then that the technical conditions, or specifications, came into force, according to which ice cream could contain anything. Each cold storage plant now determined its own composition and approved a wide variety of ingredients (from milk powder to cheap palm oil).
If today you are yearning for a real ice cream from childhood for 20 kopecks, then you are not in vain reading this article. Prepare the legendary Soviet ice cream according to our recipe, the same taste is guaranteed!
So what's important
The quality and taste of ice cream depends on the quality of the products; exclusively fresh cream and eggs are the key to a wonderful dessert. The thicker the cream, the softer the ice cream structure will be.
Everyone says that without an ice cream maker that churns and freezes at the same time, nothing will work. It is not true. If the ice cream maker whips continuously until it is completely frozen, then the conclusion suggests itself: we need to cool the ice cream in the freezer and beat with a mixer or blender, the more often the better. About once an hour.
And at the very end, mix the thick mass with a tablespoon, because the mixer will only scatter it all over our kitchen.
Now about the products we will need
CREAM
Cream for ice cream needs the highest fat content, 38%.
Photo: thinkstockphotos.com Before whipping, they need to be cooled well, at least 10-12 hours. The mixer bowl and whisk should also be cold.
In many recipes, the cream is whipped with the rest of the ingredients, but in this case the mass is not very fluffy, but if the cream is whipped separately, the ice cream will be more fluffy and tender.
It is important not to overbeat, otherwise you will end up with butter and buttermilk.
SUGAR
It is better to use white fine crystalline sugar or powdered sugar.
Fine sugar, like powder, dissolves faster in creams and creams.
VANILLA POD
Vanilla is the dried pod of a tropical orchid. The stick is 15-20 cm long, dark brown in color, evenly dried.
Photo: thinkstockphotos.com The more intense the oily coating, the more aromatic the stick. Typically, vanilla seeds are used in cooking. If you don't have a vanilla stick, you can use vanilla sugar or vanillin. But for an authentic taste, we still recommend using a vanilla pod.
EGGS
For confectionery and desserts, only fresh eggs should be used. You, of course, know that before using them you must wash them with soap and wipe dry.
When preparing ice cream, you need to follow the recipe and not deviate from the proportions indicated in it: if you add more yolks, the ice cream will have an unpleasant aftertaste and will not have a snow-white color.
MILK
We use the fattest milk, 6%. It must be fresh to avoid curdling when heated.
Photo: thinkstockphotos.com It is important to know that if you add more milk than indicated in the recipe, the ice cream will turn out watery, with a lot of ice. It will also melt quickly.
We've decided on the products. Now let's start preparing the ice cream according to GOST.
ICE CREAM RECIPE
What do you need:
4 yolks
90-100 g fine crystalline sugar
1 vanilla pod
250 ml milk 6%,
350 ml heavy cream 38%
container - for cooling
How to make ice cream sundae:
1. Grind the yolks with sugar until white.
2. Remove the seeds from the vanilla stick.
3. Boil milk with vanilla seeds in a saucepan.
4. Pour hot milk into the yolks in a thin stream, stirring continuously.
5. Return the milk-yolk mixture to the heat and heat, stirring constantly, to 80-85°C. Under no circumstances should the mixture boil, otherwise you will end up with milk and egg flakes. Cool. First to room temperature, then in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
6. Whip the chilled cream until fluffy, then carefully combine with the cold yolk-milk mixture. Beat for just a minute or two. The result should be a fluffy, but not thick mass (it does not stick to the mixer whisk, it “slides”).
7. Transfer the ice cream into a container and place in the freezer for 40-60 minutes. After the specified time, remove from the freezer and beat with a mixer. Place back into the freezer for 50 minutes. Do the same thing according to this scheme 3-4 times.
8. The last time the mass will be solid, frozen, don’t be alarmed, everything is going according to plan! Carefully “break” the ice cream with a spoon, stirring vigorously.
9. After 30-40 minutes, remove, stir, and finally place in the freezer until completely frozen.
10. The classic Soviet ice cream is ready! It will be much easier to distribute it into bowls if the container stands for several minutes at room temperature. Bon appetit!
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