Simple dishes from Konstantin Ivlev. Picnic dishes (L. A. Ivleva). Grilled trout in Abkhazian style with green beans and sour cream-lemon cream

Pork shish kebab

Pork shish kebab

Pork has a very pleasant taste, and a light marinade of mustard, garlic, onion and olive oil gives the fried pieces of meat extraordinary tenderness and juiciness. An ideal addition would be good ketchup, fresh vegetables, herbs and, of course, a spring mood!

Necessary:
1 kg pork (lean loin, neck)
2 large onions
1–3 cloves garlic
1 tbsp. mustard
2 tbsp. olive oil
salt - to taste

How to cook:


Salmon shish kebab

Salmon shish kebab

A light honey marinade with paprika, lemon and rosemary during frying forms a slightly crispy, sweetish-spicy crust and makes the salmon fillet tender and amazing.

Necessary:
1 kg salmon fillet without skin
1/4 lemon
1 tbsp. ground sweet paprika
1 tbsp. honey
1 sprig fresh rosemary
salt - to taste

How to cook:



Lamb kebab

Lamb kebab

One of the most delicious types of kebab. In order not to overpower the unique taste of the meat, we used a classic, slightly spicy marinade of finely chopped fresh tomatoes, onions, aromatic cilantro and adjika. The juiciness and delicious taste of this kebab will make it your favorite!

Necessary:
1 kg lamb pulp (tenderloin or lean boneless loin)
2 large onions
0.5 kg fresh tomatoes
1 bunch of cilantro
1–2 tsp. adzhiki
salt - to taste

How to cook:


Chicken kebab

Chicken kebab

To prepare a tender and tasty chicken kebab, just take fresh meat, cut it into large pieces and briefly immerse it in an interesting marinade. Lovers of everything classic can use thyme as a seasoning; fans of exotic tastes are recommended to marinate the kebab in spicy curry.

Necessary:
1 kg chicken fillet
0.5 tbsp. yogurt or low-acid kefir
juice and zest of 1/4 lemon
1 small bunch of parsley
2-3 cloves of garlic (optional)
2 tbsp. olive oil
1–3 tsp. curry powder or 1 tsp. dried thyme (optional)
salt - to taste

How to cook:


Beef shish kebab

Beef shish kebab

A classic marinade of pomegranate juice, onions and herbs transforms the usual tough beef meat into a tender and aromatic delicacy with an interesting sweet and sour taste and a barely noticeable spicy note of cilantro. For full flavor, we recommend using lean veal.

Necessary:
1 kg beef or veal (tenderloin, fillet)
2 large onions
1 bunch of cilantro
500 ml pomegranate juice
salt - to taste
1 tbsp. olive oil

How to cook:


Although City Day is behind us, we are returning to its brightest moments. And in the story about the participation of the famous chef and TV presenter Konstantin Ivlev in the “Cuisine of the Ryazan Region” festival, we want to focus not only on the recipes, but also on the communication between the capital’s guest and the townspeople.

Thus, in particular, Konstantin Ivlev shared his impressions of our city with Ryazan residents and gave advice to novice chefs. Perhaps the most important thing is to listen to your mentors and take notes...

No secrets!

As expected, one of the first questions was about the guest’s impressions of Ryazan.

“I’ve never been to Ryazan before,” admitted Konstantin Ivlev. – And by the way, I have always associated it with potatoes. The fact is that my father had friends from Ryazan, and they often sent him potatoes. When I was invited to Ryazan, I agreed with pleasure. As you understand, not only because I wanted to check what kind of potatoes you have here... The city did not disappoint me at all. You are all amazing people. I used to think that Ryazan was a small town. It turned out that this is completely wrong. And I also saw in you kindness and a sincere desire to learn something new. I can definitely say that I will definitely come back to visit you.

Not without one of the “traditional” questions. Just as artists are constantly asked about their creative plans, good chefs are often asked to find out the secret ingredients of their dishes.

– As a person who has written 40 books on cooking, I have nothing secret. I always tell you in detail what I do and how I do it. I have no goal to hide anything. The chef, like the artist, has the task of showing people something, getting them interested in it...

About children's cuisine and culinary cyclicality

Much more unexpected was the question from a Ryazan woman who asked whether a popular chef could work, for example, in a kindergarten?

– Like any normal person, I love children and love cooking for them. I myself have two children. At one time, together with my son, I published the book “Cooking for One, Two, Three!”, dedicated exclusively to children’s food. And I can say that, by and large, I don’t care where I work... Another thing is that establishing your own rules in the child nutrition system, in my opinion, is a thankless task. You can try to change something, but often it will not be necessary and not understood. I regularly receive offers from schools and kindergartens for my participation in catering. But to work in this system means dooming yourself to constant struggle, and to be honest, I don’t want to struggle. I just want to work for my own pleasure... Besides, I often cook for children, not only for my own. Many of my friends have more children than me, so you could say that from time to time I act as a children's chef.

Konstantin Ivlev gave advice to aspiring chefs when coming to work to be sure to take a diary with them.

Approach the process with soul!

Catfish with spinach roots and birch sap sauce. It sounds like something extremely labor-intensive to prepare, but in reality (and as Konstantin Ivlev showed in his example) it is prepared quite quickly. To prepare the sauce, you need to fry finely chopped onions in olive oil (until golden brown) and also finely chopped ginger. Birch sap is poured on top and allowed to evaporate. Lastly, add cream to the sauce.

The catfish is fried separately, in two oils - first with vegetable oil, then with butter, so that the butter saturates its fibers and the fish becomes more tender. Do not pepper the fish under any circumstances, only add salt! Afterwards the spinach is fried and the fish is served with spinach, sauce and mashed potatoes. Bon appetit!

The second recipe that Ivlev shared at the master class was quail stuffed with bread crumb with rabbit liver in a red wine and grape sauce.

“In this dish, again, the sauce plays a very important role,” explained Konstantin Ivlev. – I take dry red wine, pour it into a saucepan and let it evaporate. Then I add honey and evaporate it too. In the meantime, I make the filling for the quail from onions and white bread, cut into cubes. I also use thyme, finely chopped rabbit liver and green apple for the filling. A little garlic in a frying pan, I fry all the ingredients separately... All that remains is to mix them and stuff the quail!

The chef sent the stuffed quail, held together with toothpicks, to bake in the oven for 15 minutes. At the very end of baking, I added seedless grapes, so that the berries released juice, but at the same time retained their texture. The finished dish can be peppered and salted to taste.

“I don’t use rare and expensive products, but only those that can be bought in any store,” summed up Konstantin Ivlev. – Believe me, if you approach the process with soul, the result can exceed all expectations!

In parting, the guest promised to try to surprise the townspeople with new culinary performances on his next visit and once again congratulated everyone on City Day!

Many people traditionally associate the May holidays with their first trips to the countryside or simply to barbecue in nature. Some people prefer to cook steaks on a fancy grill or fry burgers, but most still prefer to thread pieces of meat onto skewers, place them over hot coals and wait until the juicy meat is covered with a golden brown crust.

Frying kebabs is only at first glance a simple and completely uncomplicated matter. In fact, each stage requires serious preparation:

1) Choose meat for barbecue

The main rule is that barbecue meat should be fatty. During frying over the fire, the fat is rendered, making the meat juicy. If you take, say, lean beef, the resulting dish will be too dry or even tough. The ideal option is pork or lamb.

2) Prepare the marinade

Having bought the right meat, cut it into small pieces and remember it well with your hands. The next step is choosing the right marinade. The main thing here– create an acidic environment and keep the meat in the marinade for at least 10, and preferably 12, hours. During this time, the fibers will soften, ensuring that the kebab will not come out tough. The main ingredients for the marinade are citrus juices (lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit), fermented milk products (kefir, yogurt, sour cream) or wine. Vinegar should not be used - it is too aggressive a product and will deprive your meat of taste. You can add chopped vegetables to the marinade - onions, carrots, apples.



3) Grill shish kebab

Remove the meat from the marinade. The marinade itself, like vegetables, cannot be used from it, because it has absorbed all the harmful substances from the meat. Thread the pieces of meat onto skewers and fry over hot coals, turning occasionally so that the meat is cooked on all sides. Wrap the finished kebab in thin pita bread along with fresh herbs (parsley, cilantro, tarragon, oregano) and leave to rest for 10 minutes.

Basic rules for cooking barbecue:

  • 10-12 hours: This is exactly how long any meat for barbecue is marinated.
  • Cold: marinated meat should be refrigerated. If it takes more than 15–20 minutes to get to the kebab place, you should consider ways to transport the meat, especially on a hot day.
  • Lid: meat should only be marinated in a closed container. Firstly, this way the kebab will not get too dry. Secondly, the lid prevents various flies and midges from getting into the marinade.
  • Marinade and its components are not used in further cooking. Any vegetables, including onion rings, that were marinated with meat should be discarded. During marinating, they absorb everything unnecessary - not only salt, but also harmful substances from the meat itself.
  • Mash vegetables with your hands added to the marinade before adding meat is a must. Carefully and sparing no effort. This way they release their juice better, especially onions. After adding meat to the marinade, mix all the products well with your hands, but carefully so as not to damage the structure of the meat pieces.
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper add to marinade to taste. To determine the level of salinity after the vegetables and meat are mixed, taste the marinade. It should be salted a little more than average. During pickling, the vegetables will take away excess. If the marinade is prepared at home, you can fry one piece of meat in a frying pan and determine whether it is worth adding more salt and pepper.


Should you fry meat with vegetables?

In some photographs you can see skewers where meat alternates with vegetables. This kebab looks beautiful, of course. In addition, both the meat and the side dish are ready at the same time. Bell peppers, red onions, tomatoes and mushrooms are suitable. In order for the meat and vegetables to cook at the same time, the kebab will have to be cut into very small pieces. Otherwise, you will end up with charred vegetables along with juicy meat or cooked vegetables with undercooked meat. Professionals, however, prefer to cook different products separately. In this case, vegetables can be grilled, and the choice of ingredients will be much wider than just for barbecue.

Perhaps this person does not need any special introduction: the famous Russian chef, popular television showman, author of books on cooking, Konstantin Ivlev, gives a master class on the pages of our magazine. We asked Konstantin to tell us about himself and his view of modern Russian cuisine.

Konstantin Ivlev

Actually, when I was young, I didn't want to be a chef. But I was always partial to food, loved to eat deliciously, and in our family we were very sensitive to food - apparently, this attitude was passed on to me. Of course, it also played a role in the fact that my mother is a very good cook. Due to the nature of my father’s work, we lived abroad for many years, and wherever we were, my mother always studied the local cuisine, trying to cook something from it.

I didn’t do well at school, and when I finished eighth grade, my father advised me to go to college, and out of three possible options - medical, auto-mechanical and culinary - I went to become a cook. Firstly, again on the advice of my father, and secondly, many of my friends studied there, among whom, by the way, was my current colleague and co-author Yuri Rozhkov. So my experience as a cook dates back to September 1, 1989, when I crossed the threshold of school No. 19...

When I opened the textbook on the main subject - cooking, I felt funny because I saw there everything that my mother cooked. Our house was always full of guests, there were three of us - I am a father and a brother, so she was always at the stove.

I graduated from college with honors, but still had no desire for work, and in 1991 I joined the army, where, by the way, I was also a culinary specialist. Everything changed when I came out of the army and first got a job at the Steak House restaurant in Sadko-Arkada. It was 1993, it was one of the first restaurants to invite foreign chefs, and I was simply blown away by what I saw there.

Previously, when I fed two thousand people in a food factory, stood for two hours on salads or soups, fried whites in the kitchen, twisted meatballs - everything was monotonous, everything was prepared according to collections of recipes. Olivier salad - for a second-class cafe there is one standard for laying, for a restaurant - another... And that’s it! Nobody thought about anything else... And there was no prospect: you could only become a production manager or a chef at the age of forty, and through a bribe, because it was a bread-and-butter job. And now all this collapses, a turning point occurs, completely new things are discovered, and my head is spinning. Because I find out that in addition to pork, carbonate and neck, there is other meat - lamb, ribeye, mignon, that in addition to sturgeon, carp and cod there is sea bass, sea bream, monkfish. What in addition to adjika, mustard and horseradish, white main and red base sauce there are tons of sauces you can make. That in addition to Olivier salad, there are also leafy crops - arugula, frisee, lollo rosso. What is carpaccio, what is so delicious! I realized that everything in this profession had turned upside down, that this was a new promising business. And I set myself a goal - if I don’t become a chef by the age of 25, then I will leave the profession.

I worked in one place, then in another, I extracted everything I could from the Swiss, my bosses, sticking to them like Velcro, sleeping three hours a day. And at the age of 23 I became a chef. Now I understand that at that age a person does not yet have any life experience, but that was such a time... I was simply captivated, everything was incredibly interesting to me. I started traveling around the world, getting acquainted with the cuisine of different countries. At that time, no one explained to us what and how, everyone worked at first on a whim, we learned from foreigners of the “first wave”, real experts in their field.

Having become a chef, I continued to develop professionally, and at the same time strengthened my character, honed my charisma, which a chef must have - without it you will not be able to convey what you have in your head, what God has given you, and what you can do hands. And this is what I realized at some point: what is commonly called Russian cuisine is, in fact, Soviet catering, all these borscht, pies, pancakes. In Moscow, all chefs differ in who puts Olivier in what way, who makes herring under a fur coat in what way. Sometimes I get the impression that we only have tourist restaurants here, but at the same time we are tourists. Because it's the same everywhere. And in Europe and all over the world there are restaurants that have their own regional cuisine.

In the end, Yura and I felt offended, and we decided to invent something new. Once I went to a vegetable depot on the outskirts of Moscow and saw juices there in three-liter jars dating back to Soviet times. This somehow really hurt me, I didn’t sleep for several days, and I came up with a dish: sterlet stewed in birch sap. So we began to come up with new tastes, and soon the idea of ​​a new Russian cuisine was born.

What is it based on? On three principles. The first is the use of a domestic product. Here is a dish in front of you: Russian-style sashimi from smoked salmon belly with horseradish cream and sockeye salmon caviar. The salmon is ours, the horseradish is ours, the sockeye salmon is ours. The fact that the watercress is Dutch and the olive oil is Italian is no big deal. The main thing is a new taste.

The second principle is the use of modern cooking technologies: molecular, low-temperature, shock, vacuum, etc. And the third is the presentation of the dish. I can serve tiramisu in a glass, some dish on a wooden plate, the main thing is not to follow stereotypes. In my opinion, the main thing in a chef’s work is to be in constant search. There is not and cannot be a ceiling here. By working this way, you leave a mark, you live your life in such a way that you will be remembered.

When I come up with something, I think about how to put this dish on stream so that both the first and the thousandth are twins. You can come up with some kind of fireworks, a sensation in presentation, and then the work of the cooks in the kitchen will turn into hard labor, but it should give them pleasure. I understand all this well, because I really like to cook myself. Yes, I have to manage my time, because I now have five restaurants, including the most important one for me - “White Rabbit”. But no matter what business I’m doing, every evening at 7 o’clock I get up in the kitchen and cook.

My style is a “culinary chaos laboratory”. I come up with something all the time, in my restaurants every month there is some kind of new festival. For example, for the “Seven Seas” festival I took seven northern Russian seas - Laptev, Chukotka, Kara, White, Baltic, Japanese... I studied their fauna, made soup from sea urchin caviar, potato sushi with smoked mackerel, cod pie with bechamel sauce , haddock on baked zucchini, flounder in garlic and rosemary with Kenyan beans... I consider my head a laboratory of taste, and by “culinary chaos” I mean not a mess, but the many styles of food that I know - Pan-Asian, European, and many others.

By presenting to your readers several dishes of the new Russian cuisine, I hope that this will help them better understand its enormous possibilities, which are still far from being discovered.

Mini rabbit cabbage rolls

Mini rabbit cabbage rolls

Net weight per serving (200 / 50 / 15 g)

Ground meat

Ingredients

Chicken broth, ml 175

Vegetable oil, ml 65

Fresh thyme, 1 g

Parsley, g 2

Rabbit hind leg, g 437

Preparation

Pass the rabbit fillet through a meat grinder and combine with the rest of the ingredients, stirring and beating the minced meat with a fork.

Potato pie

Mini cabbage rolls

Ingredients

Minced cabbage rolls, g 160

Chinese salad, g 44

Foie gras sauce, g 50

Potato pie, g 15

Parsley fries, g 2

Truffle oil, ml 4

Preparation

Disassemble the Chinese cabbage leaves: cut off the lower part, blanch the upper part and immediately place in cold water with ice. Cut off the thickenings or slightly beat them off. Place the minced meat in the middle, wrap and steam for 6 minutes. Place 2 cabbage rolls per serving, pour over the sauce, and place potato pie on top.

Salmon sashimi in Russian

Salmon sashimi in Russian

Net weight per 1 serving (200 g)

Ingredients

Marinated salmon fillet, g 120

Horseradish sauce, g 30

Red caviar, g 30

Green apples, g 8

Fruit balsamic cream, ml 5

Olive oil, ml 5

Black peppercorns, g 0.5

Friese, g 3

Beet leaf salad, g 2

Cutting medallions

Creamy horseradish spread

Display of red caviar

Preparation

Cut the marinated salmon fillet into medallions 1 cm thick and place in the middle of the dish in a row. For each piece put 7 g of creamy horseradish, on top of 7-8 g of red caviar. Cut the apples into cubes without the skin and arrange each slice of salmon, garnish with lettuce leaves and green and blue watercress. Decorate the dish with fruit balsamic.

Beetroot jelly

Beetroot jelly with vanilla cream, oatmeal cookies and roasted hazelnuts

Net weight per serving (275 g)

Jelly

Ingredients

Fresh beetroot, ml 600

Citric acid, g 3

Leaf gelatin, g 17

Preparation

Mix beet juice with honey, strain and heat until dissolved. Soak the gelatin. Add citric acid and gelatin to the juice and stir. pour into molds.

Mascarpone cream

Ingredients

Mascarpone cheese, g 500

Powdered sugar, g 100

Fresh lime, ml 100

Preparation

Mix mascarpone with powdered sugar and gradually pour in lime juice. The cream is ready for use.

Filling a glass with cream on top of jelly

Topping with cookies and nuts

Dessert

Ingredients

Beetroot jelly, g 20

Mascarpone cream, g 120

Oatmeal cookies, g 20

Roasted hazelnuts, g 20

Brown cane sugar, 2 g

Strawberry, g 35

Preparation

Fill a rocks glass with jelly and leave it tilted until it hardens. When serving, the cream is deposited, sprinkled with crushed cookies and nuts, and baked figs are placed on top.

“Bird's milk” in the style of “Gourmand”

Net weight per serving (600 g)

Cream "Bird's milk"

Ingredients

Granulated sugar, g 145

Table water, ml 140

Leaf gelatin, g 10

Egg white, g 90

Fresh lemon, ml 10

Condensed milk, ml 75

Cream 35%, ml 215

Preparation

Whip the cream, gradually adding condensed milk. Boil sugar and water to the consistency of thick syrup, pour into the whites in a stream, mix and combine with whipped cream. Stir, place in a pastry bag and cool.

Sesame decor

Ingredients

White flour, g 45

Butter, g 44

Powdered sugar, g 175

White sesame seed, g 72

Fresh lemon, ml 63

Tulip dough

Ingredients

Powdered sugar, g 50

Egg white, g 200

White flour, g 55

Butter, g 108

Cocoa, g 20

Fresh orange, ml 48

Preparation

Combine the protein, sugar, and flour and mix, add orange juice, melted butter and cocoa, mix and place on a stencil and bake at 165 C for 5 minutes. While hot, roll into a tube.

Dessert

Ingredients

Cream “Bird's milk”, g 88

Sesame decor, g 5

Tulip dough, g 15

Blueberry, g 6

Raspberry, g 5

Raspberry sauce, g 15

Preparation

Fill the tulip tube with cream and place in a dish, decorate with sesame decoration, sauce, berries and ground pistachios.

Episodes of the program “Greetings, Nabutov!”/ May 22, 2015

On the air of the program "Greetings, Nabutov!" our new columnist Konstantin Ivlev! The author of the book “My Kitchen Philosophy”, a man who has headed the Federation of Professional Chefs and Confectioners of Russia for many years in a row. The conversation will be about meat, how to choose, cook and serve it.

Konstantin Ivlev: In order not to spoil the taste of the meat, you do not need to add too many different spices. Whenever I use beef tenderloin for barbecue, or just for steak, for frying over an open fire, I use only salt and pepper, a small amount of olive oil, and, as always, my favorite garlic and thyme. All! Nothing else is really needed. And when you're frying, find a sprig of spruce or a sprig of fresh rosemary, dip it in the oil, and as you're frying, brush it on just a little bit like this. It will give off a slight smoky aroma. This is delicious!

Victor Nabutov: The men groaned in our studio!

Konstantin Ivlev: Pork! It is better to use all the pork. Starting from the ribs, hooves, except for the heel, probably. For pork kebabs, it is best to use fattier meat. If you take a ham, it is quite dry, so you need to be very careful with it, use more onions, you can add lamb fat. Like “Tambov ham”, which is baked in a tub and cut every morning...Fresh oregano or fresh marjoram. They give off very interesting aromas. Pork also really loves sage. You can also add honey to the marinade, but the main thing here is not to overcook it. Soy sauce also goes well with pork, for marinade, but it also doesn’t cost much, since the meat is soaked very quickly. Therefore, you can keep the pork in the marinade with soy sauce for about thirty minutes. This time is enough and you can already throw the meat on the fire.

One of my favorite recipes:
Salad from grilled vegetables and any grilled meat.
You can take pork, you can take poultry - chicken, turkey.

Eggplants, zucchini, sweet peppers - cut everything 1 cm thick and fry on a grill over a fire. We do this in the style of the Georgian salad Ajasan-dali. There the vegetables are fried whole, but here I recommend cutting them into strips. So, we chop all this well and fry until cooked. Add just a little salt and pepper. They fried it and put it aside. Take a piece of meat. You can take pork, you can take beef. They sliced ​​it very thinly, about half a centimeter thick, and basted it very well over the fire. We cut all the vegetables and meat into strips, add a little olive oil, a large amount of cilantro, add a drop of balsamic vinegar and roasted peanuts.

Striploin and ribeye - thin and thick edge.

Chops are made from striploin. It consists entirely of meat, there are no layers of fat in it at all, but ribeye is already from the shoulder blades to the neck, a thick edge, fattier, it has a fat fist - a white piece of fat. It can be fried and served along with meat.

Don’t forget about the healthy products of bull – this is, of course, the liver. A very tasty, healthy product. Raising hemoglobin! So, we took the liver. It is, of course, greater than that of veal and pork.

Quick marinade for liver:

We take the liver, chop it, add onions, chop tomatoes there, add only salt, pepper, and the only herb I recommend is parsley. Nothing else. No dill - dill is a meat killer. Let everything stand for thirty minutes, plant it and start frying. This is how we whip up a quick liver kebab.

The most delicious offal and delicacy is the tongue. But it needs to be cooked. Of course, you can’t take a raw tongue, cut it up and fry it. It's almost impossible. We take the tongue and boil it, for 1 kg it is about an hour - an hour and twenty. Under cold water, remove the skin, casing...

Victor Nabutov: And with horseradish and pickled cucumber!

Konstantin Ivlev:...and then you already think... why do I need kebab?! We simply cut the tongue.

Quick tongue in Satsivi sauce.

You need a blender, walnuts, garlic, sour cream, and a very large amount of herbs, preferably parsley. We beat all this into a homogeneous mass, quite thick, and we cut the tongue into cubes, put it in this paste, held it for about ten minutes, on skewers and into the fire.

Victor Nabutov: How about a store-bought kebab?

Konstantin Ivlev: Can! But here you have to try everything for at least five years. I don’t trust ready-made kebabs because it’s unknown what it’s cut from. Like stew - you want meat, but there is only cartilage.

Victor Nabutov: Can the satsivi marinade be used separately?

Konstantin Ivlev: Can. We add sweet Thai sauce to satsivi... the main thing is to choose a quality one

product and not spoil it. The acid found in kiwi destroys the structure of meat fibers. Kebab recipe with kiwi (you can use any meat, even fish) Kefir, kiwi, papaya, all this is mixed, you can add a little turmeric or curry paste, mix it all and marinate any type of meat in kefir. It also turns out very, very tasty.

SMS from a listener:
What kind of meat is best to choose to make minced meat for kebabs?

Konstantin Ivlev: The most important thing here is that there is fat! If you make it on tenderloin, it will be a little dry. You can take the edge, or the neck. Scroll through a meat grinder, add spices, onions, add sweet paprika, you can use cumin, add dry spices, herbs and you get this kebab, and we put it in the intestine, or you can make it like a lula, cook it over an open fire. Kebab is a limitless field. You can even grate cheese there and cook with cheese!

Victor Nabutov: Enjoy kebab!
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