Fragrances of synthetic origin. Fragrances: vegetable origin (essential oils, resins, balms), animal origin, synthetic. The influence of perfume on the human body

Ambergris is an aromatic waxy gray substance of animal origin, formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales and consisting of 80% cholesterol. In perfumery, an infusion of ambergris is used, which can fix the smell. Ambergris gives great durability to the smell of perfume.

Musk is an enzyme secreted by the endocrine glands of male musk deer deer and musk rats. Musks have a strong and persistent characteristic smell, they are able to fix and ennoble the smell of a perfume composition. Natural musks are very expensive and are used in minimal doses, so vegetable and synthetic musks are increasingly used. Vegetable musk is found in hibiscus seeds, angelica roots, etc.

Semi-synthetic fragrances

Geraniol is obtained from citronella oil. It is an alcohol that is esterified with various low molecular weight organic acids. In this case, esters with an unusually delicate odor are obtained. One example of such esters is acetic acid ester, geraniol acetate.

Methylgeraniol is an example of how fragrances can be made semi-synthetically from many complex natural products.

Synthetic fragrances

Of the synthetically produced fragrances, the best known are bitter almond oil, which is obtained from apricot kernels, and synthetic musk.

Synthetic musk refers to two groups of organic compounds. The first group - nitromuscuette compounds - are nitro derivatives of benzene, oxygen, etc. Their trade names are muskoxyol, muskusketone, Tibetan musk, Musk amrette, musken, etc. The other group is polycyclic compounds known under the trade names AHTN, HNSV, etc. Musk odor carriers are macrocyclic ketones and lactones.

On the other hand, synthetic compounds with a Pleasant odor have been developed that have no analogues in nature.

Dyes

Dyes are natural or synthetic substances used to color cosmetics.

May be inorganic or organic. According to solubility, they are divided into water- or oil-soluble. Color fastness depends on the resistance of the dye to UV radiation, Temperature, microorganisms, pH of the medium, composition of the composition (for example, the presence of inorganic salts). The duration of color retention is ultimately determined by the composition of the formulation, the concentration of the dye, the time of exposure to an adverse factor and the type of package. Due to possible harmful effects, the use of dyes in cosmetics is strictly regulated. All synthetic dyes must be certified. Only natural dyes (of vegetable, animal or mineral origin) are allowed to be used without certification. Recently, natural plant dyes have been actively used, which include azulene, azorubine, annatto, hyporizine, indigo, henna, etc., as well as mineral dyes - iron oxide dyes, green chromium oxides; ultramarines, etc.

Dyes used in cosmetics should not irritate the skin and cause allergies, and most importantly, they should not be poisonous. In addition, the dye must retain the desired color for a long time.

Among the dyes, acid, alkaline and neutral dyes are distinguished; basic, as well as slightly soluble.

Basic dyes- a group of dyes that give bright colors based on a mixture of soluble salts of mineral or organic acids.

Slightly soluble dyes- dyes, insoluble in water and soluble in organic media; contain alcohols, oils, fats, waxes.

FD&C approved" in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

D&C - in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.

Ext.D&C - for external use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Acid dyes. Molecules of acid dyes are often based on cyclic organic substances obtained from coal tar; one or more acidic sulfonic or carboxyl groups are attached to the aromatic nuclei.

Acid group dyes can be obtained from solutions using, for example, tannic acid, turning them into an insoluble coloring pigment. This procedure is often carried out simultaneously with dyeing.

Alkaline dyes. Alkaline dyes are much smaller than acid ones. Molecules of dyes included in this group contain one or more amino groups, which gives the compounds an alkaline character.

Neutral dyes. The molecules of neutral dyes do not contain any significant acidic or alkaline groups. According to their chemical structure, they are quite diverse, do not dissolve in water, and are resistant to acid and alkali. Some neutral dyes dissolve in organic solvents.

The most important natural fragrances are found in many colors. These substances can be obtained from flowers by steam distillation. In this way, for example, rose oil is obtained from roses. From coniferous trees, you can get camphor, various terpenes (a type of hydrocarbons) and other fragrant substances.

Even 50 years ago, the perfume industry used exclusively natural fragrances. Synthetic fragrances are now widely used.

Many pleasant-smelling substances have been synthesized from benzene and its derivatives: anethole - a substance with the smell of anise oil, menthol - with the smell of mint, thymol - with the smell of thyme oil.

A substance with the smell of fresh hay - coumarin, found in plants (for example, in the woodruff), is now obtained exclusively through organic synthesis. Vanillin - the aromatic substance of vanilla - is synthesized from some compounds found in the sap of coniferous trees. From turpentine, terpineol is obtained, which has the smell of lilacs.

Synthetically, it is also possible to obtain eugenol - an oil with a strong smell of cloves, heliotropin - the odorous substance of heliotrope, and onono n - the fragrant substance of violets, cinnamic aldehyde contained in cinnamon oil, and many others.

Currently, the perfume industry uses mixtures of various chemical compounds as fragrant substances. Such mixtures are, for example, rose, lily of the valley and violet oils.

Some synthetic fragrances have nothing in common with naturally occurring fragrances of the same name and are named only because they smell like natural substances. So, for example, nitrobenzene is called bitter almond oil (used to perfume toilet soap); amyl ester of acetic acid - pear essence; butyric acid ethyl ester - pineapple essence, etc.

A number of aromatic substances are prepared from fatty acids. In addition to pear and pineapple essences, these include, for example, isovaleric acid amyl ester - orange essence and isovaleric acid isoamyl ester - apple essence. They are mainly used to flavor soft drinks, sweets and artificial wines.

Known natural fragrant substances of animal origin. Some of the rarest and most expensive of these products are musk and civet.

Musk is a dark powdery substance with a strong odor. It is extracted from the gland of a male musk deer, a small wild goat animal found in the mountainous regions of Asia. About 60,000 of these animals are killed every year, extracting about 2,000 kilograms of valuable musk from them. The substance that causes the smell of musk is called musk. It is contained in musk in an amount of about 1%.

Cibet is about three times cheaper than musk. It is extracted from African civets - animals from the breed of cats. The smell of civet is due to the substance in it - civet.

About twenty years ago, the composition and structure of muscone and cibeton were established. It turned out that the carbon Skeletons and molecules of muscone and molecules of cibeton are built in a ring-like fashion, only in muscone the ring consists of 15 atoms, and in cibeton - from 16. Soon muscone and ci-concrete were synthesized. At the same time, a number of other substances with a similar structure were synthesized. And here's what's interesting: depending on the number of carbon atoms in the ring, the smell of the resulting substances also changes. If the ring contains 5 carbon atoms, then the substance

It has the smell of bitter almonds, b - mint, 7-9 - camphor, 10-13 - cedar, 14-15 - musk. With a further increase in the number of carbon atoms, the smell decreases and, finally, disappears completely.

The main purpose of fragrant substances is to meet the cultural needs of man. However, they are sometimes used for other purposes as well. Let's take an example. Sharks have been observed to avoid waters where there are shark carcasses that smell of decomposition. Chemists managed to artificially obtain a substance with the same smell. Bricks of such a substance are attached to diving and rescue suits and successfully drive away sharks.

A significant expansion of the production of the most important synthetic products is planned for the Fifth Five-Year Plan. The directives of the 19th Party Congress on the Fifth Five-Year Development Plan of the USSR for 1951-1955 state: “In the chemical industry, ensure the most ...

In early spring, the nature of Crimea awakens. The famous Crimean gardens flourish, giving the country a huge amount of fruit. But if at least a short-term, but sharp cold snap suddenly comes, frosts will beat the delicate flowers of fruit trees, ...

It has long been observed that certain chemicals affect the rate of plant development. It is enough, for example, the presence of small amounts of luminous gas in the air to speed up the ripening of tomatoes. The first organic substance that accelerates...

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Topic: "Synthetic Fragrances"

Completed by: Vishnyakova K.

Fragrances- organic compounds with a characteristic odor used as odorous components in the production of perfumes and cosmetics, soaps, synthetic detergents, food and other products.

Fragrances can be classified according to four criteria:

By type of raw materials

in terms of chemical structure

by smell,

direction of use.

Raw materials for obtaining fragrant substances. At present, oils directly isolated from any flowers, such as rose oil, are rarely used as fragrant substances. Typically, fragrances for cosmetics (like perfumes themselves) are well-thought-out mixtures, the components of which can be both natural fragrances and synthetic products. Raw materials for fragrant substances can thus be divided into natural and synthetic.

Natural fragrances can, in turn, be divided into the following groups:

essential (or volatile) oils,

resins and balms

substances of animal origin.

natural essential oils. Essential oils got their name because, on the one hand, they are thick oily substances, and on the other hand, they evaporate already at room temperature in the form of vapors with a pleasant smell.

Chemically, they are not oils at all, but various chemical compounds.

Of the flower oils, rose oil is probably the best known. Jasmine, clove, narcissus and lavender oils are obtained from their respective flowers.

Rosemary oil is distilled from rosemary leaves with water vapor, and bergamot oil is squeezed from the peel of individual citrus fruits.

Essential oils are found in the flowers of many plants, often even in the leaves and stems of plants. They are obtained from flowers or the whole plant, for example, by extraction or steam distillation or, in some cases, by pressing.

Raw materials for the production of essential oils can be divided into the following groups:

1. Cereal(fruits, seeds):

coriander,

fennel, cumin,

2. grassy(leaves, aerial part of herbaceous plants, young branches of woody plants):

eugenol basil,

rose geranium,

patchouli,

tagetis,

eucalyptus,

noble laurel,

wormwood,

Nepeta

fragrant violet,

rosemary,

grindelia,

· coniferous,

· mock orange,

fennel,

3. Floral(flowers, inflorescences, flower buds):

clary sage,

· lavender,

· lavandin,

large-flowered jasmine

lily white,

lily regale,

· lilac,

· mock orange,

cloves (buds);

4. Root(roots, rhizomes):

· vetiver,

A special fifth group is raw materials for obtaining retainers:

Lichen (oak moss)

· incense.

Each essential oil plant, as a rule, serves as a source of one type of industrial raw material or essential oil. This is typical for plants in which the essential oil is located either in one organ or in several, but very similar in composition.

Examples are the leaves and inflorescences of mint, the leaves and branches of the noble laurel, as well as anise and fennel, all of whose aerial organs contain an essential oil similar in composition to the essential oil from ripe fruits. Therefore, anise and fennel can be considered as sources of two types of raw materials (grain and herbaceous) and one essential oil.

However, there are many plants in which the essential oil from various organs differs sharply in composition and, consequently, in smell. They are sources of several types of raw materials and essential oils.

This is citrus

- from young branches which receive petitgrain essential oil (the smell of bergamot direction, the main component is linalyl acetate);

- from flowers- neroli essential oil (characteristic smell of citrus flowers - methyl anthranilate);

- from fruits lemon, orange, tangerine, etc. - essential oil of lemon, orange, etc. (the smell inherent in this species).

Such plants also include fragrant violet, coriander, iris, mock orange, tobacco, dill, etc.

The list can be continued indefinitely, since it is estimated that there are about 1700 different fragrant substances in the plant world. These essential vegetable oils are, of course, not pure substances, but always mixtures containing some basic substance with a pleasant smell.

In the manufacture of some cosmetic formulations, a floral scent is used, but essential vegetable oils are usually not used in their pure form: they are eliminated (often with the help of rather complex procedures) of unnecessary components, such as terpenes harmful to the skin or any component that smells too strong .

Thus, purified semi-finished products are made from many essential oils obtained from natural sources for their subsequent inclusion in mixtures.

An example is citronella oil, which is obtained from the citronella herb. From this oil, several necessary fractions are distilled off separately: geraniol, citronellol (the smell of menthol) and some terpene derivatives (used as fixatives).

Resins and balms- substances released by plants in the course of normal physiological metabolism, as well as during injuries.

Balms- solutions of resins in essential oils. Resins - solid consistency, balms - liquid or ointment.

Balms and resins (balsam of Peru, benzoin, etc.) released by plants when injured, are natural protective agents developed by nature itself that accelerate wound healing.

Balms and resins successfully perform the same function in application to the animal organism and to humans.

Resins and balms - energetic phytoncides. Due to these properties, many of them are highly desirable as components of cosmetic preparations intended for skin and hair care.

Resins and balms are found in many plants. These are complex mixtures of organic compounds, mainly diterpene structure, viscous consistency, non-volatile with water vapor, soluble in ethyl alcohol and other solvents.

In resins, it is especially widespread cyclic resin acids the general formula C20H30O2. In addition, they include resin alcohols, esters of resin acids and various alcohols, hydrocarbons, tannins, phenols, etc.

As a rule, resinous substances are present together with essential oils. The ratio between them varies over a very wide range. There is also a great difference in the content of resinous substances in various types of essential oil raw materials. So, in the flowers of a rose they are about 0.5% of the absolutely dry mass, in the young branches of the cistus - 26%.

Peruvian balsam- resin, which is collected from a notch made on the bark of an evergreen balsam tree from the myroxylon family. This is a mildly scented substance that has fixing properties, it fixes well and complements the smell of perfume.

Styrax- resin, which is obtained by wounding trees of the Hamamelid family. It is a pleasant-smelling substance that is used in its pure form in perfumery as an odor fixative. Alcohols are also isolated from it, the esters of which are also used in the perfume industry.

Fragrances of animal origin. Of the fragrant substances of animal origin, mention should be made of ambergris- a waxy substance that is formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales, as well as secreted by musk oxen musk.

Both of these substances are useful due to their pleasant smell and fixing properties. However, obtaining these substances is associated with the slaughter of rare animals, so today they are almost never used ( use their synthetic counterparts).

Semi-synthetic fragrances. As mentioned earlier, geraniol, derived from citronella oil and, as its name suggests, an alcohol, is esterified with various low molecular weight organic acids. In this case, esters with an unusually delicate odor are obtained. fragrant perfume styrax cosmetic

One example of such esters is the ester of acetic acid - geranyl acetate. A methyl group can be introduced into the geraniol molecule, resulting in a delicately smelling methylgeraniol.

Methylgeraniol is an example of how fragrances can be made from natural products in a so-called semi-synthetic way.

Synthetic fragrances. Of the aromatic substances produced by a purely synthetic method, the most famous is the substance with the aroma of bitter almond oil (which is obtained from apricot kernels). it benzaldehyde, the synthetic production of which is very simple.

Many aldehydes, fatty alcohols containing 9-10 carbon atoms, aromatic acid esters are natural fragrances that are quite easy to prepare synthetically.

On the other hand, there are useful synthetic compounds with a pleasant smell, which have no corresponding analogues in nature.

Chemical structure of fragrant substances. The largest group of aromatic substances - esters; many fragrances are aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and some other groups of organic compounds.

Esters of lower fatty acids and saturated fatty alcohols have fruity scent(so-called fruit essences, such as isoamyl acetate).

Esters of aliphatic acids and terpene or aromatic alcohols have floral scent(eg, benzyl acetate, linalyl acetate, terpenyl acetate).

Esters of benzoic, salicylic and other aromatic acids have mainly sweet balsamic scent(they are often used as odor fixatives - adsorbents of fragrant substances).

Valuable aromatic substances include, for example:

· among aliphatic aldehydes- decanal, methyl nonylacetaldehyde;

· among terpene- citral, hydroxycitronellal;

· among aromatic- vanillin, heliotropin;

· among fatty aromatic- phenylacetaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde.

From ketones the most important are:

alicyclic containing a keto group in the ring (vetinone, jasmone) or in the side chain (ionones, damascones), and

fatty aromatics (for example, n-methoxyacetophenone, musk-ketone);

From alcohols the most important are:

monatomic terpene (geraniol, linalool, terpioneol, cintronellol, etc.,

Aromatic (benzyl alcohol, cinnamon alcohol).

Extensive experimental material on the relationship between the smell of a substance and the structure of its molecule (type, number and position of functional groups, branching, spatial structure, the presence of multiple bonds, etc.) is still insufficient to predict the smell of a substance based on these data. Nevertheless, for certain groups of compounds, some particular regularities were revealed.

Thus, the accumulation in one molecule of several identical functional groups (and in the case of compounds of the aliphatic series - and different ones) usually leads to a weakening of the smell or even to its complete disappearance (for example, during the transition from monohydric alcohols to polyhydric ones).

Using the example of macrocyclic ketones (below in figure (I)) it is shown that their smell depends on the number of carbon atoms in the cycle:

ketones С10-С12 have camphor smell,

C13 - cedar,

C14-C18 - musky(the latter is preserved if, with the same ring size, one or two CH2 groups are replaced by an O, N, or S atom),

And with a further increase in the number of carbon atoms ("n" in the figure) the smell gradually disappears.

Odorless and aliphatic compounds containing more than 17-18 carbon atoms.

The similarity of the structures of the compounds does not always determine the similarity of their odors.

So the compound (II) in the figure below at R=H has an odor ambergris, compound (III) - strong fruity aroma, and analogue (II), in which R = CH3, in general odorless.

Cis and trans isomers of anethole, as well as cis and trans isomers of 3-hexen-1-ol, strongly differ in smell, unlike vanillin (IV), isovaniline (V) has almost no smell:

On the other hand, substances that differ in chemical structure may have a similar odor.

For example, a rose-like smell is characteristic of:

rosacetate C6H5CH (CCl3) OCOCH3,

3-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pentanol C6H5CH2CH2C (CH3) (C2H5) OH,

geraniol and its cis-isomer - nerol,

Rosenoxide (VI).

The odor is affected by the degree of dilution of the fragrance. So, some odorous substances have an unpleasant smell in their pure form (for example, civet, indole).

Mixing various aromatic substances in certain proportions can lead both to the appearance of a new smell and to the destruction of the original one.

Classification of aromatic substances by smell. Until now, there is no strict scientific classification of fragrant substances by smell, and for their description they continue to use subjective terms such as "fruity" or "floral", "musky" or "putrefactive" ... And in this direction, scientists and manufacturers remain only " with a nose."

Nevertheless already created devices designed to identify volatile organic compounds called "electronic nose". The principle of their operation is based on measuring the change in the conductivity of an electric current by polymeric materials (for example, polypyrroles, doped metals) due to the absorption of volatile organic substances by them. They are already used to determine the freshness or spoilage of food, to control drugs, and so on.

However, a device for accurately characterizing a particular odor (and not just a substance, and even more so a complex mixture of substances - the carrier of this odor) has not yet been invented.

The human nose is still the most sensitive and reliable device when working with odors., which can determine the presence of odorous molecules in concentrations up to 10 -6 g per 1 m 3 of air.

It should be borne in mind that the sensations and definition of the nature of the smell of even the same fragrant substance by different people can vary greatly. For example, the smell of methyl salicylate in the USA and Canada is rated as very pleasant, and in England and Switzerland as smelly, unpleasant.

The smells of flowers are evaluated differently not only in different countries, but also among representatives of the same nation. Thus, a sharp discrepancy was found in the assessment of the same smell by people of different sexes, ages, and health status.

It is also appropriate to recall that even the nose of one person perceives the same smell differently - for the right nostril it is more pleasant.

All these factors indicate a great deal of subjectivity in assigning a particular smell to a certain group.

By smell, it turned out to be difficult to classify fragrant substances also because the smell of the same substance often depends on its concentration (for example, the smell of indole and skatole).

The first attempt to classify all smells was made by Aristotle in the 4th century BC, who divided them into six main ones:

sweet,

sour,

acute,

tart,

juicy and

malodorous.

It was not until two thousand years later that systematic attempts began to create more thorough classifications.

According to one of the theories of the 17th century, it was proposed to distinguish seven so-called primary (basic) types of smell:

ethereal,

camphor,

Muscular

floral,

minty,

sharp and

putrefactive.

All the rest of the existing diverse smells could be obtained by mixing the listed elementary smells.

In the middle of the XVIII century, all smells were grouped into seven classes, and at the end of the XIX century. added two more classes, thus proposing the following classification of odors:

1. ethereal (acetone);

2. spicy (coniferous, camphor, clove, citrus, menthol, cinnamon, lavender);

3. incense (jasmine, violet, vanilla);

4. amber-musky;

5. garlic;

6. burnt;

7. goat (caprylic, smells of urine, sweat, semen, cheese);

8. repulsive;

9. fetid (rot, feces).

In 1916, a classification system of smells was created in the form of a five-sided prism, at six vertices of which there are basic smells (1-6), and at points lying on the edges, faces and inside the prism - smells, composed, respectively, of two (for example , 1-2 - floral-fruity), three, four and six basic smells.

1-6 - basic smells: 1 - floral, 2 - fruity, 3 - putrid, 4 - burnt 5 - resinous 6 - spicy.

There are also purely "perfumery" classifications of aromas. For example, the classification of the French Perfumery Committee, developed in 1999, has seven groups of odor compositions, divided into a number of subgroups:

1. Citrus(includes five subgroups - spicy, floral, woody, etc.),

2. Floral(nine subgroups - mono- and polyfloral lavender, aldehyde, greens, fruity, woody, marine, etc.),

3. Wine glass or fern (five subgroups - floral, amber, spicy, fruity, aromatic, etc.),

4. Chypre(seven subgroups - fruity, floral, aldehyde, leather, aromatic, herbs, etc.).

5. woody(eight subgroups - citrus, coniferous, spicy, amber, aromatic, leathery, marine, fruity),

6. Amber(six gender groups - floral, spicy, citrus, woody, fruity),

7. Leather(three subgroups - floral, tobacco, etc.).

Classification of fragrant substances by types of use.

According to the direction of use, fragrant substances can be divided into:

1. perfumery substances(for the preparation of fragrant compositions intended for the manufacture of perfumes, eau de parfum or "day perfume", colognes and eau de toilette),

2. cosmetic substances(to add fragrance to cosmetic products - lipstick, creams, lotions, foams),

3. fragrance substances(for soap, synthetic detergents and other household chemicals),

4. odor fixing substances(to reduce the evaporation of base aromatic substances, as well as to intensify their smell in the case of synergy, that is, such a mutual influence of the two components of the perfume composition, which enhances their useful, in this context, and fragrant properties).

Bibliography

1. H. Villamo "Cosmetic Chemistry",

2. L.A. Heifitz "Scented Substances for Perfumery"

3. "Fundamentals of Organic Chemistry of Fragrances for Applied Aesthetics and Aromatherapy" under. edited by A.T. Soldatenkova,

4. I.I. Sidorov "Technology of natural essential oils and synthetic fragrances",

5. R.A. Friedman "Technology of cosmetics".

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natural fragrances

Natural fragrant products are divided into products of plant and animal origin.

To natural aromatic substances of vegetable origin include essential oils obtained in various ways, plant materials, resins, balms, flower lipsticks.

Essential oils are aromatic liquids that look like vegetable fatty oils, but by their chemical nature have nothing to do with them.

Essential oils are a mixture of substances belonging to different classes of organic compounds (carbohydrates, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, phenols, etc.).

Each essential oil consists of a large number of components, among which one or more are contained in large quantities, are considered the main ones, determine the direction of the smell and the value of this essential oil.

Essential oils are volatile liquids, the presence of vapors of the fragrant part of the essential oil in the air is the cause of the smell in humans. They dissolve well in alcohol.

The main essential oil crops include coriander, mint, pink geranium, essential oil rose, lavender, eugenol basil, clary sage.

In the 21st century, the city of Grasse in France has become the largest center for the production of raw materials for perfumers. Remaining so far, he is a leader in this field. Grasse plantations grow jasmine, roses and orange trees.

Essential oils are obtained from various parts of essential oil plants: flowers, leaves, wood, roots and rhizomes, flower buds, fruits, peels and fruits, needles.

PLANT RAW MATERIAL is used in the perfume industry in the form of alcohol infusions or solutions.

Dry raw materials are dried parts of plants, as well as lichens (oak moss). Infusions have a full and persistent smell, increase the durability of the smell of perfumes.

Resins - are a mass of solid consistency secreted by resinous plants growing in areas with a hot climate, the most common of them are:

Styrax- a gray substance with a resinous - spicy smell, obtained from an amber tree (Syria, Transcaucasia, Middle Asia).

benzoin resin- a white substance, covered with a brown crust, has a vanilla smell, extracted from plants growing in India.

cistus- has a lemon-balsamic smell, obtained from the cyamus bush (Mediterranean).

Balms - These are semi-liquid substances, natural solutions of wood resins in essential oils, which eventually turn into a thick mass due to the evaporation of essential oils. The greatest use is toluan balm, which has a vanilla smell.

RAW MATERIALS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN:

Musk- a granular substance of a dark brown color, located in the musk glands of the musk deer (deer). Musk has a strong peculiar smell.

Zibet- a greasy substance of a yellowish or brown color, with a strong specific odor, is a (predatory animal living in Asia and Africa).

Castoreum- glands of the Siberian river beaver male. Has a musky smell with a hint of tar.

In order for precious aromatic substances not to evaporate, so-called fixatives are added to them - odor fixers.

One of the best fixatives is ambergris, which is extracted from the stomachs of whales.

SYNTHETIC FRAGRANTS.

Currently, up to 75% of synthetic fragrances are introduced into the composition of perfumery products. They have the most diverse assortment and smells, for example:

Diphenylmethane - orange with an admixture of geranium;

Paracymol - cumin;

Limonene - lemon;

Geraniol - roses;

Nerol - roses, but more gentle;

Lianol - lily of the valley;

Terpineol - lilac;

Eugenol - cloves;

Methyl ether - bird cherry;

Coumarin - fresh hay;

Benzaldehyde - almond, etc.

Synthetic fragrances convey odors both present and not found in nature.

The composition of perfumery products also includes: ethyl alcohol (used as a solvent), pheromones (in-in from the enzyme gland of a rare animal - musk deer), unscented auxiliary substances (benzyl benzoate, diethyl phthalate, benzyl salicylate, etc.), water, dyes (rhodamine , fluorescein, acid green and violet anthraquines).

Analyzing this information, we can conclude that a great variety of fragrant substances are used in the perfume industry and for each of them the percentage of the composition content is determined, that is, the limit that is safe for health.

The vegetable kingdom unites with the animal kingdom to provide a whole range of scents of the rarest variety: from the sweetest and most seductive to the most pungent and pungent, from the intoxicating smell of tuberose to the viscous, tart and almost faecal smell of civet...

The use of plant and animal products containing fragrant substances has been known since ancient times. Some essential oils are already mentioned in Sanskrit literature. Since the substances of animal origin are very limited in quantity compared to the abundance of flowers, fruits, grains, roots, bark, leaves and fruits, let's start with them: animal scents contribute to the optimal fixation of perfumes and give a sensual (voluptuous) tone.

Fragrances of animal origin

In the range of fragrant raw materials, the main place belongs to substances of animal origin. We are talking about amber, musk, civet and beaver stream (castoreum).

Fragrant substances of animal origin enrich perfume compositions, give them sophistication, enhance temperament, serve the duration of perception. In addition, they establish harmony between the smells of perfume and human skin, make them related, serve as an intermediary, make perfume our "second self". Do not forget, perfume must certainly be combined with the smell of skin and hair.

Ambergris - Already in the ancient world, it was a subject of trade, and remains so to this day. Covered in legends, this product cost $ 7,000 per kilogram. It was used by Guerlain, Chanel and Zhivodan.

Musk - The bearer of musk is the musk deer, a hornless deer that lives in Siberia, Northern Mongolia, Central and Southeast Asia. The sex glands of the male produce a substance similar to fresh honey, reddish in color.

Cibetin - Cibetin (Late Latin zibethum, from the Arabic "sabad") - a substance with a sharp musky odor, secreted by special glands of predatory mammals of the genus viverra - a civet cat, or cibet, living in North Africa and Asia.

Beaver stream (castoreum) - Under the tail of the owners of a chic fur coat there are pear-shaped bags. These are not glands, but a special, unlike anything, organ found only in beavers, whose genus appeared in southern Europe 10-12 million years ago.

Fragrances of plant origin

Remember the last time you walked through a fragrant garden. Can you remember the enchanting scent of rose, the zesty sweetness of lavender, the twilight scent of chamomile? What did you feel when you reveled in a bouquet of smells: satisfaction, relaxation, peace - you wanted to keep pleasant sensations and take them with you.

So let's plunge into the world of aromas of wildlife, giving spirits their unforgettable fragrance.

It is difficult to imagine the whole arsenal of plants that are used to obtain fragrant substances. In the first place, of course, flowers.

Field plants were sacred to the ancient pagans, who believed that the gods created plants for the benefit of people. In his book "Mistletoe and Its Philosophy" P. Davidson speaks about it this way: "Books are written in the language of flowers and plants, poets from time immemorial sang the most beautiful of them, kings were glad to have their essence, but true doctors - the Priests of Nature - they speak on a higher and higher note.

There is no such plant or mineral that would fully reveal all its properties. How can a scientist be sure that flowers and plants do not contain another inner force inherent in the nature of a plant? Why are flowers called the Stars of the Earth, and why are they beautiful? Is it not because they spend a lot of time smiling at the sun during the day and dozing at night under the stars? Did they come from another, more spiritual world to our land? Didn't God make "every plant" BEFORE it was on the earth, and every field plant was made BEFORE IT GROWN?"

Flowers

Rose - The first essential oil obtained by man was rose oil. The rose is one of the oldest flowers on earth. In ancient times, it was grown in all countries of the Eastern Mediterranean.

Jasmine is the king of flowers. To such an extent that in Grasse they did not say "jasmine", but "flower". In the language of flowers, white jasmine means "your first kiss moved me."

Tuberose - Conquering, stupefying and intoxicating, often combined in perfumes with jasmine, with which it forms a perfect union, tuberose grew in Mexico and was imported to France in the 16th century, then it began to be bred in Italy, Spain, Morocco and Egypt.

Ylang-ylang - Having become essential in almost most modern flower arrangements, the flower once grew only in the Philippines and the Camoros Islands.

Lily of the valley - The most common spring lily of the valley, growing in the forest and forest-steppe zones of Europe. It also grows in Asia and America. Blooms in May.

Honeysuckle - Shrub plant, evergreen, sometimes with falling leaves. It grows in the northern and southern hemispheres. About 200 species are known, of which over 30 species are found in Russia.

Lily - Lily flowers are large with a pleasant mysterious aroma, funnel-shaped, cup-shaped or bell-shaped, white, red, yellow or orange (sometimes with stripes or specks).

Narcissus, hyacinth and jonquil - An inspiration of the Moors and Vaucluse (department in France), wild hyacinth or cultivated, as well as jonquil, are close in smell. In narcissus, it is more intoxicating, more exciting, symbolizing the awakening of nature after hibernation, the light of the first warm days.

Pomerange and Orange Blossom (orange flower) - "Orange tree, adored by me, how gentle your fragrance seems to me! Is there anything more pleasant in the kingdom of Flora than you?" - so said Lafontaine in an age when everyone went crazy from the smell of orange blossom

Lavender - Evergreen odorous shrub up to one meter high. Flowers are bluish to dark purple in color. It is grown commercially in France, Spain, Bulgaria, neighboring countries and England.

Other flowers

It is impossible to tell about all the floral aromas of the earth, bestowing their uniqueness on perfumes. Perfumers skillfully use the aroma of mimosa and lotus, poppy and magnolia in the composition. Take at least iris - a flower of amazing warmth with spicy characteristics, as in Chanel No. 19 perfume. Or magical shafali - the rarest Indian flower growing at the foot of the Himalayas. It blooms at sunset. Yves Rocher specialists have recreated the whole magical range of the most delicate flower aromas in Shafali perfume.

White, pink and purple lilacs are featured in Fero's Jour (Day) perfume, surrounded by carnations, jonquil and lilies - a surprisingly fragrant fragrance. It is interesting that about 25 species of wild lilac have been bred on Earth, and there are more than a thousand of its cultural forms. Every spring, lilacs bloom, decorating gardens, parks and squares with pink, purple, lilac-blue, white clusters. It blooms profusely, generously giving us a delicate and delicate aroma. But how to preserve this wonderful fragrance, use it to create perfumes?

And although the perfume industry has a perfect technology for obtaining floral essential oils, it is still very difficult to "catch in a test tube" the scent of lilacs. Its flowers are very small, and millions of them must be processed to obtain a drop of oil.

It is estimated that with a special - for perfumers - breeding of lilacs, 1 hectare of plantations gives up to 70 centners of inflorescences - this is no less than 70 million flowers! Astronomical figure! You can get a little more than 2 liters of lilac oil from them - a transparent yellowish liquid. However, in perfumery, it is used little, since the aroma of lilac, and therefore the oil, is extremely changeable and unstable. Breeders have not yet been able to develop special types of especially aromatic lilacs.

Leaves, branches, roots

The gamut of smells that exude some leaves, stems of plants or roots that do not have the enchanting sweetness of the aroma of summer flowers conceals a rare charm and gives the perfume a forest freshness. How exciting is the imagination of a cassia bush with leaves crumpled by a thunderstorm or a handful of geranium leaves, impregnating the palms only with its inherent astringency!

No doubt, over the millennia, people have learned a lot about smells and learned how to use them, both finding and, unfortunately, losing. But the most important thing is that the process of knowledge of fragrant substances is far from over. The ancient botanist Theophrastus created his invaluable work "History of Plants" (which, by the way, has retained practical significance for the modern perfume industry) as early as the 4th-3rd centuries BC. e. And yet, until now, our "green friends" keep thousands of "why?".

Violet - Incredibly, the essential oil obtained from the leaves of the fragrant violet, about which the poet wrote, does not smell of violet at all, but ... green, straight from the garden, cucumber.

Vetiver - It is widely used in perfumery, extracting from the roots the essential oil of a deep, persistent, forest smell. Vetiver is grown in India, Indonesia, Reunion and Haiti.

Patchouli is a herbaceous shrub originally from Malaysia, up to 90 cm high. The main supplier is Sumatra, followed by China.

Basil - Grows in many hot countries. Homeland - India. It appeared in Europe in the 16th century, where it was considered a symbol of fertility and at the same time evil or death.

Gum and resins

Resins, gums and balsams belong to the most ancient perfumery raw materials. Myrrh and frankincense, galbanum and opopanax were already used by the Egyptians. And today perfumers resort to them when creating their compositions.

Frankincense - Frankincense (from lat. incensum - burned as a sacrifice) has a woody, spicy, lemony smell, similar to camphor.

Galban - This is a gum - a resin obtained from herbaceous plants of the genus Ferula, a resident of desert regions.

Opopanax - Often confused with myrrh and misspelled "opoponax" instead of "opopanax". Opopanax is a genus of herbaceous plant in the Apiaceae family. Homeland is Iran, distributed in Europe (Mediterranean) and Asia.

Myrrh - Aromatic resin, flows from an incision in the bark of the trunk of a short, gnarled and spiky shrub Commiphora myrrha, growing in Africa, along the shores of the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean, in Asia and Arabia

Styrax (Benzoine resin, or dewy incense) - Resin of the styrax tree, which is native to Laos and Vietnam. The ancient Greeks called it Silphion, and the Romans called it Laseritium.

Cistus - Shrub from one to two meters high, grows in France (Provence), Morocco, Spain and Greece. Its incredibly sticky leaves have villi that secrete gum from May to June.

Mosses, wood and bark

Nature is unimaginably rich in aromas, and man has learned to get them not only from flowers and resins. Dry and strong aromas of cedar and sandalwood, the more delicate aroma of rosewood, or the scent of birch, reminiscent of leather smells, give substances obtained from the wood or bark of these plants. Complemented by the specific fumes of tree mosses, they represent a family of typical scents used mainly as backgrounds for perfumes. Often coexist in the same composition.

Cedar - Frost-resistant, perennial evergreen tree. Often mentioned in the Bible, symbolizing fertility and abundance.

Oak moss - Of all tree mosses, oak moss is the most commonly used in perfumery. This is a lichen that is harvested in winter and early spring in temperate areas (Central Europe, Tyrol, Auvergne, Spain, Atlas).

Spices and Aromatic Substances - This special category of raw materials for the creation of perfume compositions, as it were, came from the kitchen. And not by chance. Since ancient times, people have seasoned food with various spices.

Fruits - From fruit aromas in perfumery, hesperid smells are widely used - aromas of citrus fruits: lemon, orange, bergamot, mandarin.

"Chemical miracle" - As long as there is a person, he seeks to unravel the mysteries of nature, comprehend its secrets and learn how to apply them in his life. Of course, many people were interested in the composition of essential oils obtained from plants.

Perfume palette - How rich is the perfumer's palette! What does he not use to realize his fantasies! Sage and cardamom, bluegrass and cactus flower, geranium and peach, green tea and burnt wood - it is impossible to name all the scents collected to create small masterpieces in crystal bottles.

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