Yes, but there are still circles on the Internet: the Pepsi generation is in shock, having previously been convinced that sausage in the USSR was made only on holidays and for the nomenklatura.
By the way, how much of this sausage was made in the RSFSR?
In 1990 - 2,283 thousand tons, 15.4 kg per poor Soviet soul. This was very little, so there was a terrible shortage of sausage. People could drop everything they were doing and go on a trip to Moscow for a couple of days to bring a “Doctorskaya” stick and three “Krakovskaya” rings to starving children. Soviet men only took women as wives who had several such sausage walkers behind them...
But the terrible times of scarcity are over, the Great Sausage Revolution swept away the retrogrades from power, and the doors of freedom and abundance opened up. In 2009, in the Russian Federation, having destroyed the livestock population and many totalitarian meat processing plants, with the help of thousands of small sausage factories and without any unnecessary livestock, using only naked entrepreneurial ingenuity, they produced as many as 2,238 thousand tons of sausage products, or 15.7 kg per free Russian soul . Today we can see sausage on every shabby counter, at any price from 60 to 1260 rubles per kilogram, and the new generation of Russians does not want to believe that someone could specifically go to hell for such crap. Before our eyes, Soviet sausage has become a legend.
I continue to acquaint the reader with the history of Soviet sausage using the 1960 reference book (Konnikov A.G. Production Directory sausages And semi-finished meat products. 2nd ed., revised, supplemented. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1960). Today we will find out the composition and technological requirements to the production of Soviet boiled sausages. Did you add water and ice to the sausage? pork skin, soy fillers, crushed bones, preservatives, toilet paper and the blood of repressed dissidents?
Sausage from the Soviet period. She can rightfully be called legendary. True, representatives of different generations have their own “legend” associated with this product. Nowadays there are few people who remember the first GOST for sausage. It was introduced in 1936 by order of the People's Commissar Food Industry Anastas Mikoyan. He specifically flew to Chicago to get acquainted with the most advanced meat processing enterprises in the world at that time.
The composition of the first "Doctor's", for example, included beef premium without veins, lean pork shoulder, ice water, nitrite salt and table salt, whole cow's milk, sugar, egg, ground nutmeg, cardamom, black pepper.
GOST for this type of sausage remained unchanged until the 1970s. At that time, there was a shortage of meat in the country due to a decline in livestock farming. It was then that they officially allowed minced sausage add two percent starch. None of the consumers even felt anything, but the savings in meat nationwide turned out to be impressive. In addition to starch, animal protein substitutes, so-called caseinates, were also allowed.
This allowed not only to increase the production of sausages, but also to reduce their prices. So, “Doctorskaya”, instead of two rubles and thirty kopecks, began to cost ten kopecks less. But its taste, like other sausages, has changed. Now, according to GOST 1979, they could be made from buffalo or yak meat. The composition could include trimmed pork and veal, as well as trimmed single-grade goat meat and lamb (frozen meat was not forbidden); raw pork and beef fat, side and back fat; processed by-products, egg melange, dry cream and first grade flour.
Thus, for 100 kilograms of Lyubitelskaya sausage, 35 kilograms of first-grade trimmed beef, 40 kilograms of trimmed lean pork, and 25 kilograms of back fat were used. The additives included: salt (2.5 kg), sodium nitrite - 5.6 g, sugar - 110 g, black pepper - 85 g, nutmeg or cardamom - 55 g, spice mixture - 250 g.
But not all sausages were so meaty. For example, GOST for breakfast sausage allowed its production from sodium caseinate, wheat flour, potato starch.
In addition to the beef itself, boiled “Beef sausage” was added beef brains. "Moscow sausage" according to GOST 1986 consisted exclusively of trimmed beef and back fat. By the way, GOST 1986 was not very different from GOST 1979. The list of spices was slightly expanded, which now included garlic.
GOST standards for semi-smoked and smoked sausages appeared in 1941. This was due to the beginning of the war. There was a need for sausages that could be stored for a long time and would be satisfying. To make them, they took trimmed beef or pork (chilled, defrosted (thawed) or frozen). Added pork belly, pork fat, bacon or fatty pork trimmings, lamb fat, spices and certainly pure chemical nitrate. During the war, this GOST was changed several times. There was a period when it was possible to use animal bones, sinews, and other not entirely edible parts of animals ground into powder.
After the 1990s, GOSTs were abolished. TU appeared - technical specifications. They are not adopted at the state level; they are developed by each enterprise individually. Therefore, among the many varieties and types of sausages today there is great amount those that do not initially contain meat. Soy products natural meat has long been replaced, and the necessary taste is created by flavorings and emulsifiers.
Often, when we hear the word “history,” we imagine dusty shelves of archives and libraries, something distant and dilapidated. We rarely think about the fact that history lives in our home, in the most common everyday things and even in the food products that we eat every day... And it is some products that tell the story of their birth that can tell the story of the entire country. Don't believe me?
Then answer the question - what products from the table of an ordinary Soviet person can we still find on our table? That's right: Borodino bread, ice cream, Baikal and Duchess sodas, however, the list could go on for a long time. But, perhaps, the most honorable place will be occupied by “Doctor’s” sausage - one of the most popular food products today, which has become a kind of symbol of the Soviet country and one of the most famous brands of our time.
But the history of “Doctor’s” sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its kinks and complexities.
The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War has ended and the national economy is being restored. Almost throughout the entire country, the unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed, and the kulaks have been liquidated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which a decade later will allow the country to win the Great War...
Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - this is due to the previous difficult years. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. That's why the idea arises to create a product with high content protein that could replace meat.
A special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of “Doctor’s” sausage will be played by Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, People’s Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR since 1934. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the USA as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of “industrial” American food, several varieties of sausage and frankfurters, processed milk appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens industrially, a variety of canned food, ice cream...
Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the production of milk, sausages, and canned food.
April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed an order to begin production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by sausage intended to “improve the health of persons who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the tyranny of the tsarist regime.” It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those receiving treatment in sanatoriums and hospitals.
The recipe for this product was developed by the best specialists in the country, doctors, and employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), “Boiled doctor’s sausage of the highest grade” per 100 kg of sausage should contain 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of lean pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg cow's milk dry whole or low fat. The minced meat for the sausage was made from fresh meat and had to be double chopped. A minimum of cooking ingredients were used as seasonings. table salt; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.
There is a legend that initially they wanted to give this sausage the name “”. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination “Stalin’s sausage” could be incorrectly interpreted by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 50s, the recipe and quality of the sausage remained unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. This depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The ideal and model was the sausage of the Mikoyanovsky meat processing plant - the capital's giant, which primarily supplied the nomenclature, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought at almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of “Doctorskaya” was significantly higher than its retail price. In Doktorskaya stores they sold for 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s it was possible to buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 seals waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.
Changes in the quality of sausage began only in the 70s and this was primarily due to the difficulties that continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, with the drought and crop failure of the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to sausage mince.
Dramatic changes in the fate of sausage - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the raw materials will change, and in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.
But still, most of us, coming to the meat department of a supermarket and choosing sausage, will first of all pay attention to the name “Doctorskaya”….
Born in the USSR: Doctor's Sausage and the Kopeika Car
Often, when we hear the word “history,” we imagine dusty shelves of archives and libraries, something distant and dilapidated. We rarely think about the fact that history lives in our home, in the most common everyday things and even food... And it is they who, by telling their story, can tell the history of the country. Don't believe me?
Then answer the question - what products from the table of an ordinary Soviet person can we still find on our table? That's right: Borodino bread, ice cream, Baikal and Duchess sodas, however, the list could go on for a long time. But, perhaps, the most honorable place will be occupied by “Doctor’s” sausage - one of the most popular food products today, which has become a kind of symbol of the Soviet country and one of the most famous brands of our time.
But the history of the “Doctor’s” sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its kinks and difficulties.
The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War has ended and the national economy is being restored. Almost throughout the entire country, the unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed, and the kulaks have been liquidated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which a decade later will allow the country to win the Great War...
Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - this is due to the previous difficult years. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat.
A special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the “Doctor’s” sausage will be played by Anastas Ivanovich, People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR since 1934. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the USA as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of “industrial” American food, several varieties of sausages, industrially processed milk, a variety of canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens...
Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the production of milk, sausages, and canned food.
April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed an order to begin production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by sausage intended to “improve the health of persons who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the tyranny of the tsarist regime.” It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those receiving treatment in sanatoriums and hospitals.
The recipe for this product was developed by the best specialists in the country, doctors, and employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), “Boiled doctor’s sausage of the highest grade” per 100 kg of sausage should contain 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of lean pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of whole or skim cow’s milk powder. The minced meat for the sausage was made from fresh meat and had to be double chopped. A minimum of table salt was used as seasoning; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.
There is a legend that initially they wanted to give this sausage the name “Stalin’s”. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination “Stalin’s sausage” could be incorrectly interpreted by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 50s, the recipe and quality of the sausage remained unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. This depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The ideal and model was the sausage of the Mikoyanovsky meat processing plant - the capital's giant, which primarily supplied the nomenclature, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought at almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of “Doctorskaya” was significantly higher than its retail price. In Doktorskaya stores they sold for 2 rubles 20 kopecks. In the mid-70s, with this money you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.
Changes in the quality of sausage began only in the 70s and this was primarily due to the difficulties that continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, with the drought and crop failure of the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to sausage mince.
Dramatic changes in the fate of sausage - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the raw materials will change, and in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.
But still, most of us, coming to the meat department of a supermarket and choosing sausage, will first of all pay attention to the name “Doctorskaya”….
Born in the USSR: Doctor's Sausage and the Kopeika Car
Nowadays, you increasingly come across statements that during the USSR period this was better, sometimes tastier, sometimes fresher. But I remember how my mother-in-law and I met after work in 1989 on Tverskaya, maybe it was still Gorky Street then, and we “combed” all the stores where people “grabbed” cheese, milk, minced meat in the queues - we had to feed two hungry people men. With coupons - cigarettes, sugar. Sausage? I don’t really remember how or where they bought it. A couple of years earlier, in 1987, I worked in one of the capital’s editorial offices, and it was heaven there: meat in the store for employees, and any sausage in the buffet and pickles on the table in the dining room. My friends ordered me to buy something for the table for celebrations. For the holidays, in special stores, we were given a varied, full-fledged set - a couple of loaves of imported high-quality salami - cervelat, always very fresh red, white fish, caviar, of course, and a bunch of cans, the existence of which buyers of Soviet stores did not even suspect. It was a shame to receive these “bags” of food on May 9th. When our veterans were given 10 times less and meagerly. In the glorious Brezhnev years, 1975 - there was a grocery store in our house, and I don’t remember that the shelves were empty - two or three types of boiled sausage - “doctoral” - dietary, “amateur” with fat, veal - (sometimes) with tasty fat - they were definitely on sale, and boiled-smoked - “Armavir” and “Krakovskaya” were there. Not always, but very often. There were queues for the “Moscow”, “Tallinn” ones. However, they were always there in the USSR. Mom was friends with the manager, dad with the butcher. Everything was there. “From under the counter,” as they used to say - almost everyone. But - this is Moscow. And in the summer , I went to visit my grandmother at sea for 3 months, and they sent me with big box meat and sausage. This was not the case in Crimea, or it was on the market - it was expensive. My dad’s friends came to us from Saratov, and the house smelled like a sausage department before they left. Sausage trains left Moscow for other cities of the USSR. In my reference book “Book about delicious and healthy food" - 1971 publication, 28 varieties of Soviet sausage are listed. There are names there that are not associated with anything in my memory - “chopped ham”, “glazed”, “puff”. But “Brunswick”, “servelat”, “delicacy”, “Soviet” - have crossed over from the USSR to our days. It helped me remember my beloved liver sausage, which was forbidden to me - they say, “dogs only eat that.” And it was delicious, like everything forbidden. Sausage in the USSR cost: 2.90, 2.20, boiled, and 3, there, with kopecks, boiled-smoked. In any case, the affordability of the price did not in any way affect its quality. They say that after the severe drought of 1972 and the death of livestock - for the first time in GOST according to Soviet sausage changes were made and ingredients were added that outweighed the meat content. Our friends in the Baltics had a house and their own farm. That's how I tried it for the first time raw smoked sausage from home smokehouse, prepared according to a European recipe - the Spanish “fuet” is not even close. The secret of the “deliciousness” of sausage from the times of the USSR, as in the “psychotest”, is logical - there is a shortage, memories from the past are almost always tasty. And, besides, sausage was prepared for many decades only from fresh meat- chilled. From what - now - it’s scary to imagine. The future belongs to small sausage factories of cooperators. Expensive, but delicious.
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