Publications in the Traditions section

Catering in the Russian Empire

Today, going to a restaurant or cafe is a common thing, but how did the catering culture appear in Russia? We recall where the nobles dined and dined, and where - people with modest incomes, who kept pre-revolutionary drinking establishments and what dishes were on their menu.

Taverns

Nikolay Krymov. New tavern. 1909. State Tretyakov Gallery

Boris Kustodiev. Moscow tavern.1916. State Tretyakov Gallery

Pyotr Konchalovsky. In a tavern. 1925. State Russian Museum

In the hierarchy of pre-revolutionary public catering, taverns and taverns serving Russian cuisine were considered the lowest-class establishments, but this was not always the case. Initially, they were not intended for "mean people" at all, but for wealthy gentlemen, often foreigners who did not keep their own kitchen. One of the first such establishments, built in 1720 in St. Petersburg on Troitskaya Square, was called the "Tavern House". It became famous for the fact that Tsar Peter I was a regular here, who liked to drink a cup or two of aniseed vodka. Foreigners became the owners of the first domestic taverns, and the cuisine in them was usually foreign - the choice of dishes and alcoholic beverages was distinguished by variety and sophistication.

The first taverns were full-fledged restaurants, but under the successors of Peter I, they became more democratic establishments. The owners were forbidden to sell vodka and beer, to install billiard tables in the halls. And the owners began to cook simpler food and serve cheaper wine to guests. Foreign cuisine was replaced by Russian, and the servants were called not “waiters”, but “sex”. Cab drivers, workers, small artisans poured into the taverns - people with little income. Many taverns did not close until 7 am, which attracted an audience that could not be called decent. Catering establishments did not differ in cleanliness, it was always noisy in them, and visitors who had gone overboard often staged brawls. However, not only commoners, but also aristocrats went to taverns anyway. The latter were attracted by the opportunity to observe the "simple life".

Restaurants

The first restaurant in Russia is Yar. 1910. Photo: oldmos.ru

The first restaurant in Russia is Yar. Big hall. 1910. Photo: yamoskva.com

The first restaurant in Russia is Yar. Scene. 1910. Photo: yamoskva.com

Restaurants - or restaurants, as they were first called - began to open at the beginning of the 19th century. They were considered high class establishments. The first years the restaurants worked exclusively at hotels, but later gained independence. Until the 1870s, only foreigners opened them in Russia: there was a demand for everything Western in the country. Most often, the French became the owners of restaurants. Therefore, the menu included not Russian cabbage soup and pies, but national French delicacies.

Dandies and socialites met in expensive restaurants: visiting fashionable establishments was an obligatory item in the daily routine of a typical representative of golden youth. In the first half of the 19th century, they dined late - around 4 pm according to European tradition. For this reason, restaurants did not open until 3 pm. Since stormy revelry regularly took place here, decent ladies did not go here. Women began to visit restaurants only in the middle of the 19th century, but never alone.

Unlike taverns, the restaurants were not staffed by "sex" waiters, but by alert waiters, who were called "people." Their appearance had to correspond to the high level of the institution - they served in black tailcoats, starched shirt-fronts and boiled white gloves. The head waiter, dressed in a tailcoat suit or business card with striped trousers, met visitors and escorted them to the table. He controlled the waiters, like a conductor with an orchestra - at his sign they changed dishes, filled glasses with wine.

In pursuit of customers, restaurateurs tried to outdo competitors in interior decoration: they set up winter gardens, decorated halls with exotic plants, fountains, balconies and mirrored walls. The menu was also striking in its variety and sophistication: in restaurants one could taste the most expensive liqueurs and the rarest foreign wines, fruits were delivered from tropical countries, confectionery products were brought from Belgium and Switzerland, goose liver and truffles from France.

Coffee houses, confectioneries, tea houses

Cafe Wolf and Beranger. 19th century Photo: opeterburge.ru

Coffee house "Partnerships of A.I. Abrikosov and sons. 19th century Photo: pralinespb.ru

The interior of Perlov's tea house. 19th century Photo: moscowsteps.com

Thanks to Peter I, coffee in Russia quickly turned into a popular and cheap drink, so domestic coffee houses were very different from their foreign counterparts. In the 19th century, they were most often cheap establishments for an unpretentious public. Vissarion Belinsky wrote about people's addiction to coffee: “Petersburg common people are somewhat different from Moscow: in addition to polugar (an alcoholic drink based on rye, malt or wheat. - Approx. “Culture.RF”) and tea, they also love coffee and cigars, which suburban peasants even feast on; and the beautiful sex of the St. Petersburg common people, in the person of cooks and various kinds of maids, does not at all consider tea and vodka a necessity, and absolutely cannot live without coffee..

The first coffee houses appeared in the middle of the 18th century in St. Petersburg. In addition to coffee, their menu certainly included jams, ice cream, chocolate, fruits, lemonade, and cakes. At the same time, according to the Nikolaev “Regulations on tavern establishments” of 1835, it was forbidden to serve hot dishes, alcoholic beverages in coffee houses, and it was also impossible to install billiard tables.

One of the most famous domestic coffee houses - Wolf and Beranger Cafe in St. Petersburg - opened its doors in the 1780s. Its main feature was in the decor, made in the Chinese style. The institution was made popular not only by outlandish decoration, but also by a reading room with fresh domestic and foreign press. It was in this confectionery on January 27, 1837 that Alexander Pushkin met his second Konstantin Danzas, with whom he went to a fatal duel with Georges Dantes. Mikhail Lermontov, Alexei Pleshcheev, Nikolai Chernyshevsky and many other writers drank coffee here.

The fashion for everything foreign introduced Russian consumers to nougat, marzipan, ice cream, chocolate, sweets and biscuits - the demand for them began to grow rapidly to the detriment of the original Russian gingerbread, bagels and gingerbread. Therefore, at the end of the 18th century, confectioneries appeared that specialized exclusively in desserts. They quickly replaced the "candy shops" that sold takeaway sweets. In pastry shops, cakes, cakes and eclairs could not only be ordered home, but also eaten at the table.

Confectioneries were usually opened by foreigners, primarily the Swiss. Many establishments relied on wealthy clients: the owners maintained high prices and were insured against the riots that commoners often staged. Pastry shops were usually run by women, which was unusual for the era. Most often, foreigners were taken as employees: French, German or Italian.

Confectioneries often turned into places where the creative intelligentsia gathered - literary trends, drafts of future works, plans for publishing magazines were discussed over a cup of coffee and cake. So, in the 19th century, the confectionery porter Lared was popular, among the regulars of which were Alexander Griboyedov, Vasily Zhukovsky, Alexander Pushkin, Ivan Turgenev.

Tea houses appeared in Russia quite late - the first institution of this kind opened only in 1882. But then they became a ubiquitous phenomenon - they were opened along the highways, at postal stations and railway stations, next to markets and theaters. For tea, they offered freshly baked bread and churned butter, cream and sugar. Polished to a shine, samovars were decorated with hot bagels and donuts, and in wicker baskets there were always crackers and dryers.

Kitchen and canteens

Canteen of red commanders, 1930s Photo: farforovoekafe.ru

Dining room background Dervizov. 19th century Photo: fictionbook.ru

People's factory canteen. 19th century Photo: libryansk.ru

At the beginning of the 18th century, the first kuhmister's or "kukhmister's tables" appeared in St. Petersburg. These institutions were designed for the public with a modest income - artisans, petty officials, poor merchants. A dinner of three or four courses in the kitchen was quite cheap - about 35-45 kopecks. It was more profitable for visitors who constantly dined in such establishments to buy subscriptions for lunch - a 10-ruble ticket gave a ruble discount.

Depending on the nationality of the owner of such an institution, visitors were offered Polish, German, Tatar, Caucasian dishes. But the most popular were the Greek kitchens, the menu of which, however, had practically nothing to do with Greek cuisine. They served a variety of Russian soups, main courses, pastries.

Kuhmisters gained popularity not only because of the relative cheapness of food, but also due to the fact that they were always located in the city center and worked from morning to night. However, the kuhmisters had one tangible minus - since most often they were in the basements, they were dirty and stuffy.

Practically all kuhmisters sold meals "at home". Ready-made meals were distributed to students, lodgers and bachelors: they did not have enough money to keep their own kitchen and cook, but they preferred to dine at home. In many kitchens it was possible not only to have lunch or dinner, but also to celebrate a celebration: an anniversary, christening, wedding. Some of them specialized in memorial dinners - these were located next to the cemeteries.

At the end of the 19th century, kitchens were replaced by canteens that offered breakfasts, lunches and dinners in portions to customers. The first canteens were practically charitable - food, of course, was not distributed free of charge, but it was very cheap. The menu here was monotonous, but high sanitary requirements were imposed on the preparation of dishes. Canteens were open every day from 12:00 to 16:00. Their walls were decorated with cheap popular prints, and the tables were covered with oilcloths. The interior decoration was reminiscent of a tavern: for clarity, various dishes that were on today's menu were displayed on the counter. It was customary to eat a cold appetizer right at the counter, but hot dishes - exclusively at the table. Free bread lay in baskets on all slots, and hot water was also available for free. Those visitors who had a monthly subscription to the dining room received a personal locker in which they kept a napkin, a newspaper or a book to read during meals, and sometimes their own cutlery.

Whiskey

“Island whiskeys have brackish and smoky flavors, so they go well with any marine life. Guests at distilleries producing these varieties are usually treated in this way - large plateaus of freshly caught fish, shrimp and shellfish, ”says brand ambassador and food pairing specialist for the company Diageo Konstantin Samorukov. One of the most traditional dishes served with whiskey in Scotland is grilled Scottish salmon. There are notes of smoke and salt in both food and drink, complementing each other perfectly. Fish and especially crabs cooked in the style favored by the Singaporean Chinese (in a sauce based on a huge amount of freshly ground black pepper) are perfect for rich, bright styles of whiskey with an abundance of spices in the bouquet - cinnamon, ginger and all the same black pepper. Lighter, fruitier whiskeys such as Japanese varieties also pair well with fish, especially meaty varieties like tuna. American corn whiskey tends to be slightly sharper and sweeter than barley whiskey. And this brightness should be emphasized by serving lobsters and crabs with a rich sauce.

Tequila

The stupid tradition of eating tequila with salt and lime was not born out of nowhere. The sour and salty flavors really suit this drink. The dish they dominate is not so far from Mexico - in Peru. Both ceviche and tiradito go well with tequila and its "ancestor" mezcal. But beware of any new-fangled sophistication, such as berry sauces and fruit garnishes. You want the most classic option: raw fish, shrimp, scallops, and a basic sour-and-spicy marinade of lime juice, onion, chili, salt, and pepper.

Unexpectedly well - no worse than the unchanged French Muscadet - tequila is combined with oysters. A special chic is oyster cocktails based on it. An oyster is sent to the shot, without fail, along with water accumulated in the sink, some kind of hot sauce, for example, Tabasco or Thai sriracha, a couple of drops of lemon juice and 50 g of unaged silver tequila.

Rum

“In general, rum does not go very well with marine life. But every rule has an exception. Aged by the solera method, with distinct sweet notes, dark rum will well emphasize the taste of fish cooked in the Asian style, that is, again with a sweet aftertaste,” says Konstantin Samorukov. All kinds of fish curries based on sweet sauces, with pineapple, lychee, palm sugar and, of course, coconut milk and grated coconut, will be very welcome along with a glass of aged dark sweet rum made from sugar cane juice. Naturally sweet-tasting seafood like lobster and crab also goes well with this strong drink.

Gin

“Practically no one drinks pure gin. But if we take cocktails where its original taste is preserved as fully as possible - for example, a dry martini - then it will be necessary to serve enough rich, fatty sea fish to set off the dryness of the drink, ”says Samorukov. Fish snacks with a direct, pure taste will also be a good choice: for example, smoked and salted salmon, sockeye salmon, sturgeon, nelma, muksun, whitefish. For more aesthetics, you can require a shrimp cocktail for a dry martini. And finally, there is no more gastronomic drink than a gin and tonic. Give free rein to your imagination - replace the lemon with grapefruit, tangerine, lime or all together, remove citrus fruits altogether and add a sprig of rosemary or a handful of fresh sour berries, crush and throw into a glass a couple of pepper grains, a box of cardamom, a cinnamon stick, anise star, combine in one a glass of several varieties of gin, add bitters, do whatever you please. After all, gin and tonic is the perfect accompaniment to the already mentioned ceviche, tiradito, sashimi and other raw fish and seafood dishes.

Rakia, ouzo or grappa

The very case when it is necessary not to reinvent the wheel, but to follow centuries-old traditions. Sweetish grape moonshine, infused with anise and other spices, or without any additives at all, is served with various small snacks, not least among which are anchovies, sardines, anchovies and other medium-sized smoked, marinated fish drenched in olive oil. It is in this vein that action should be taken. However, another Mediterranean specialty - larger fish stuffed with herbs and lemon, baked in salt or grilled, will also come in handy.

Polugar or unaged whiskey

Grain distillate - both pure and infused with cumin, coriander, dill seed and other similar spices - retains, unlike its barrel-aged counterparts, a pronounced bready note. This means that it should be served where the sweet and sour taste of rye crust is appropriate. Salmon marinated with herbs, smoked Siberian fish, like the same nelma, finally, what is there already - a large, with a slide, a tablespoon of caviar. Choose the color yourself.

Modern Russian cuisine is an attempt to rethink traditional dishes using local products, new recipes and technologies. The search for Russian taste and a fresh look at familiar dishes like porridge, dumplings and borscht gives rise to interesting combinations, servings and opens up local products from a new perspective. The Village tells about 12 restaurants with Russian cuisine, where you should definitely go.

In the photo: White Rabbit

"Teremok"

We do not advise you to go to any Russian chain cafe, seriously. Teremok is an exception. This is the main Russian pancake network, which is not a shame. The menu includes more than two dozen sweet and savory pancakes, as well as cereals, soups and salads. You have to go, of course, for pancakes, which you can take with you or eat on the spot.

"Cafe Pushkin"

The legendary Cafe Pushkin restaurant on Tverskoy Boulevard has become a legend in almost 20 years - it seems to be the most stable restaurant in the country. The chef has been working here longer than Putin in the Kremlin: the menu and management have not changed since 1999. Traditional dumplings, pancakes, borscht, and desserts with a French touch are one of the main attractions of Moscow.

white rabbit

Since 2015, White Rabbit has been consistently ranked among the 50 best restaurants in the world by The World's 50 Best Restaurants. This is one of the main gastronomic restaurants in the city. Chef Vladimir Mukhin is in charge of the kitchen, he thinks a lot about modern Russian cuisine, uses local products and constantly travels around Russia in search of interesting recipes and ingredients. Must-try: coconut fat, beetroot with cherries, black bread dessert and ryazhenka and sour cream ice cream.

Pictured: Twins Garden

Dr. Zhivago"

Luxurious restaurant overlooking the Red Square in the style of Stalin's empire. Snow-white tablecloths, red sculptures of pioneers and waitresses in aprons with scarlet lips - everything you need to feel like in a smart Soviet recreation center. Predominantly traditional cuisine of the times of the USSR is prepared here - Russian salad, dumplings, herring under a fur coat. Here, of course, they offer vodka and tinctures.

LavkaLavka

Another author's look at modern Russian cuisine: LavkaLavka is one of the first restaurants that began to work exclusively on local and seasonal farm products. The menu changes several times a year, depending on what products are in the kitchen right now. Particular attention is paid to vegetables and root crops, meat is purchased exclusively from local farmers, so everyone can find something for themselves.

Twins Garden

The pride of the boulevard ring is the restaurant of the chefs of the Berezutsky brothers. In addition to a very impressive wine list, the brothers almost completely provide the restaurant with products from their own farm near Moscow - vegetables, homemade cheeses, and even fish. The Berezutskys are known for their original presentation of haute cuisine, the brightness of colors on the plate and their special love for the variety of textures. You need to book a table in advance.

In the photo: Uhvat

The restaurant, recently opened in Trekhgornaya Manufactory, has managed to become famous for its Russian ovens and dishes, which, if not entirely, then partially cooked there. Chef Yevgeny Alfan spent several months studying ancient recipes and working with the oven with village grandmothers, so it turned out quite authentic. You should definitely pay attention to hemp porridge, cucumber porridge with egg, varenets and be sure to ask to try the local baked milk. Interesting and worth a look if you're up for experimenting.

"#SiberiaSiberia"

The restaurant, originally from Novosibirsk, managed to conquer the capital in the shortest possible time and risks becoming almost the main one in Russian cuisine. The menu includes traditional dishes from the times of the USSR and Tsarist Russia, but in a modern way. "#SibirSibir" was able to prove that the usual cuisine does not have to consist of mayonnaise and fat, but at the same time it can preserve the tastes that are understandable and familiar to the Russian people.

Address: 1st Krasnogvardeisky pr-d, 21

Opening hours: 12:00–00:00

Average check: 2 500 rubles

Another restaurant with a real Russian oven, on the 85th floor of Moscow City - a description that should already speak for itself. Ruski is the author's rethinking of traditional Russian dishes with the search for new combinations. Not the fact that everything will be delicious, but beautiful - for sure.

In the photo: "Northerners"

"Northerners"

"Severyane" does not position itself as a restaurant of Russian cuisine, nevertheless, they cook here in the oven, but work mainly with local products, which makes it a priori Russian. Young talented chef Georgy Troyan is especially good at working with buckwheat, and you should come here first of all for breakfast, which is served every day until 16:00.

"Royal Hunt"

Address: Rublevo-Uspenskoe sh., 186, pos. Zhukovka

Moscow of the 19th century was famous for its feasts - arranged both in homes and in places of public catering. This century was the heyday of fashionable and expensive places of public catering - upscale restaurants and prestigious inns; however, there were enough democratic institutions in Moscow.

Until the 18th century, Russian public catering was intended for poor people. Taverns and drinking houses were filled with common people. Peter I, having seen prestigious establishments of this kind in Europe, opened taverns in Russia - places for wealthy gentlemen. Taverns appeared both in St. Petersburg and in Moscow. But, lacking a restaurant-going culture on the part of the privileged class, these taverns quickly turned into taverns. The name of the tavern was discredited (well, that's temporary). At the end of the 18th century, the doors of gerbergs were opened for gentlemen, and from the beginning of the 19th century they began to be called restaurants.

From about the beginning of the 19th century, catering establishments in Russia acquire gloss and chic. Luxurious restaurants appear in Moscow, offering guests the finest dishes of foreign cuisine. Here you will find truffles, and game of all kinds, and desserts, and, of course, champagne brought from France!

Remembering the restaurant "Yar" - one of the most famous in Moscow - Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin wrote:

How long will I be in anguish hungry
Fasting involuntary to observe
And cold veal
Truffles Yar to commemorate?

Interestingly, in the 19th century, Moscow taverns regained their prestige, becoming national restaurants with a Russian flavor. Taverns "for a pure public" specialized in Russian dishes, and the portions here were huge! Visitors could well have had a dinner and a schitz, and a mountain of pancakes, and a jellied pig, and then go to a restaurant to eat a Strasbourg pie ... Tea and vodka were favorite drinks in taverns.

What are the most famous restaurants in Moscow? "National", "Metropol", cafe "Savoy", "Slavianski Bazaar", "Empire", "England", "Strelna", "Lux-Hotel", "Golden Anchor", "Prague", "Hermitage" and, of course, the great "Yar". A special “specialization” was assigned to some restaurants: for example, in the Hermitage on Tatiana’s Day, Moscow students were wildly walking, and in Strelna and Yar they were famous for gypsy singing.