What are the origins of fragrant substances? Natural fragrances. Sources of aromatic substances

1.1.2. Dry vegetable raw materials

Dry plant raw materials - dried fragrant parts of plants (seeds, fruits, roots) and lichens (oak moss), used in the form of alcohol infusions. Of all the tree mosses, oak moss is the most commonly used in perfumery. It gives the perfume shades of freshness and greenery, reminiscent of anise. This is necessary for chypre or green perfumes with a fresh scent.

There are plants (cloves, cinnamon, vanilla), from which essential oil can be obtained only after drying and long-term storage, since the fragrant principle is formed as a result of enzymatic processes occurring during this process.

Alcohol infusions of dry plant materials are a valuable component of perfumes, as they have a full and lasting odor.

Resins and balms. The most ancient perfumery raw materials include resins and balms. Myrrh, frankincense and galbanum were also used by the Egyptians. Resins and balms are products that flow from cuts in certain trees. Resins are hard, sticky secretions, insoluble in water, soluble in turpentine, alcohol; contain essential oils. Resins include frankincense, galban, myrrh, and styrax.

Incense(from the Latin "incensum" - burned as a sacrifice) has a woody, spicy, lemony smell, similar to camphor. The best variety is dew incense (benzoin resin). Frankincense is collected from a cut in the bark of a tropical tree of the burzer family, growing in East Africa and the Middle East. The pale yellow or orange resin hardens into a dark, solid substance.

Galban- resin obtained from herbaceous plants of the genus Ferula, growing in the mountains of Turkmenistan and Iran. Hardened galbanum is a whitish concretion, very fragrant with fresh and at the same time forest animal aromas. Miss Dior's perfume includes the scent of galbanum.

Myrrh- an aromatic resin flowing from a cut in the bark of the trunk of the Commiphora myrrha shrub, growing in Africa, Asia, and Arabia. The hardened resin is yellowish, reddish or brown in color, has a strong specific odor, reminiscent of both lemon and rosemary. The essential oil (myrrol), which is part of myrrh, has antiseptic properties, due to which myrrh was used for embalming.

Styrax- resin obtained from the liquidambra tree. The aroma is heavy, fragrant, similar to the smell of vanilla.

Balms- these are semi-liquid substances, solutions of wood resins in essential oils containing aromatic acids. The most widely used is Tolu balsam, which has a vanilla scent.

Resins and balms are valuable not only because they have their own scent. They increase the durability of the scent of perfumes and serve as fixatives, i.e., they regulate the evaporation of fragrant substances in the composition and prevent them from appearing separately.

Resins and balms are used in the form of infusions.

1.2. Fragrancesanimal origin

Fragrant substances of animal origin are dried glands of males of some animals or secretions of endocrine glands and other organs.

Musk- a dark brown granular substance obtained from the dried endocrine glands of a male musk deer living in Eastern Siberia. The smell of horse sweat and urine. The basis is cyclic ketones. .

When dissolved in alcohol and infused, it gives a very pleasant smell. The smell of musk is very persistent: in Tabriz (Iran) there is a one-of-a-kind “fragrant” mosque. Its walls were laid on a solution to which musk was added. This smell can still be felt today, more than 600 years later.

Ambergris- a greasy, waxy mass of greenish-gray color with the smell of incense. Ambergris is found in the form of pieces of various sizes on the surface of the oceans, in the entrails and secretions of sperm whales. The main components are ambrain and benzoic acid.

In ancient times, musk and amber were used as independent fragrant agents. Now - only for enriching perfume compositions.

Zibet- secretions of the civet cat, which lives in North Africa and Asia; yellowish sticky mass with a strong specific odor. The main component is the ketone civeton. When mixed with other components of perfume compositions, the substance loses the sharpness of the smell and gives the perfume shades of animal warmth and sensuality.

Castoreum (beaver stream) - odorous secretion of the beaver's internal glands. This oily yellowish substance has a pungent tar odor. Castore-um creates a warm, animalic note, close to the smell of leather, and perfumers use it in oriental, chyro compositions, as well as in men's perfumes. The durability of castoreum is extremely high.

Used in perfumery and musky stream- excretion of musk rats.

Raw materials of animal origin are used in the form of infusions. They sharpen the sensitivity of the olfactory organs, thereby increasing the time of perception of the smell of perfume.

The temperament of French perfumes is largely explained by the content of fragrant substances of animal origin in them. They have an “animal smell” and establish harmony between the smell of perfume and human skin, making the smell as if characteristic of a person. These products are very expensive and are used in microscopic doses.

II. Syntheticaromatics

Synthetic fragrances are products of chemical processing of petroleum, coal, wood, and essential oils.

They are divided into 2 groups:

Actually synthetic, obtained by organic synthesis from the products of chemical processing of coal tar, oil, peat;

Artificial- by isolating individual substances using chemical methods from natural essential oils, products of plant and animal origin.

An important task of synthesis is to obtain new fragrant substances with great strength and stability.

Chemical scientists create synthetically individual substances, the smell of which has no analogues in nature. This greatly expands the capabilities of perfumers.

Synthesis methods are becoming more and more complex, and equipment is becoming more and more efficient, making it possible to recreate the aroma of a flower without tearing it off. Thanks to new technology, the Yves Rocher company was able to collect and study the fragrant substances of the rare shafali flower, which grows at the foot of the Himalayas and blooms at sunset. Based on the substances identified and counted by the computer, perfumers recreated the entire gamut of delicate flower aromas (perfume Shafali, rare flower).

The production of synthetic fragrances is very complex, but much cheaper than processing natural raw materials. For example, to obtain 1 kg of essential oil of jasmine flowers, you need to manually pick 10 million flowers with great care, which requires huge costs, and synthetic fragrant substances - jasmine aldehyde - are much cheaper.

Synthetic fragrances played a huge role in the development of the perfumery and cosmetics industry and the expansion of the range of products. A combination of natural and S.D.V. made it possible to diversify the scent of perfumery products.

Synthetic fragrances help preserve nature. The idea of increasing the production of essential oils from plants constantly faces the issue of environmental protection.

From year to year, many plant species are finally disappearing on Earth, and forests are becoming scarcer. Their restoration is taking place with great difficulty. According to statistics, dozens of plant species disappear from the United States every year. According to scientists, out of 22 thousand species of higher plants growing in the territory of the former USSR, about 3 thousand are on the verge of extinction. Around the world, approximately 40 thousand species are threatened.

The animal world is no less in danger. For the annual production of 2000 kg of musk, extracted from the glands of a male musk deer, about 60 thousand of these animals are exterminated. At the same time, the content of muscone, which is the fragrant beginning of musk, is about 1% in the latter. The number of sperm whales in the World Ocean does not exceed 300 thousand heads and continues to decrease. Ambergris production is decreasing every year. The beaver is also included in the Red Book. The production of synthetic scented substances has stopped the extermination of some animal species. Thus, the savior of the musk deer is the fragrant substance musk-ketone, which has an intense odor of natural musk, and the sperm whale is amber with an amber smell.

However, synthetic fragrances cannot completely replace natural fragrances. Synthetic aromatic substances, even with a floral scent, determine only the main feature of the smell of a plant, only reminiscent of the smell of jasmine, roses, etc.

Synthetic fragrances by consistency- These are liquid or crystalline products.

Based on the type of chemical compounds, synthetic fragrant substances are divided into 9 groups:

2.1. Hydrocarbons

Diphenylmethane- obtained synthetically from benzene and benzene chloride, not found in natural essential oils. It smells like orange with a hint of geranium.

Limonene- found in orange, lemon, caraway and other essential oils. It is obtained by fractional distillation of essential oils, as well as synthetically from a-terpionel by heating with sodium bisulfate. Has a lemon scent.

Paracymol - found in caraway, nutmeg, salfaya and other essential oils. It is obtained synthetically by dehydration of various terpenes. Has the smell of cumin.

2.2. Alcohols

Geraniol- found in rose, geranium, citronella oils, lemon wormwood oil and other essential oils. It is isolated from natural essential oils containing geraniol through its double compound with calcium chloride. It has the scent of rose Nerol - found in rose, geranium, bergamot and other essential oils. It is isolated by reduction of citral or isomerization of geraniol. It has a rose scent, but is more delicate than geraniol.

Citronellol- Contained in geranium essential oil, has a rose scent. It is obtained by the catalytic reduction of citral or from citronella oil.

Terpineol- found in orange, geranium, and camphor oils. It is obtained by treating terpentine oil, containing up to 70% pinenes, with a mixture of sulfuric acids and toluenesulfonic acids. Has the smell of lilac.

Linalool- found in coriander, rose, orange and other essential oils. It is obtained by fractionated distillation of coriander oil in a vacuum. Has the smell of lily of the valley.

Benzyl alcohol- found in clove tuberose oil, obtained by saponification of benzyl chloride with a solution of soda ash, followed by purification. Has a faint aromatic odor.

β-Phenylethyl alcohol- Contained in the form of esters in geranium and perolium oils; is a component of rose oil. It is obtained by reacting benzene with ethylene oxide in the presence of an aluminum chloride catalyst. When diluted, it smells like roses.

Fragrant substances, ethyl alcohol, and sometimes dyes are used in the production of perfumery products.

Fragrant substances constitute the main group of raw materials used in perfumery. These include substances that have a pleasant specific odor, capable of transmitting it to other substances, when introduced into them, even in very small quantities.

Wherein isobutylquinoline - creates a hint of skin scent , styrene acetate - the smell of greenery, benzyl salicytate - the smell of flowers, alpha-amaldehyde Brown acid, although it smells like jasmine, is not made from jasmine.

Fragrances are divided into two groups: natural (natural) fragrant products, the main source of which is a large group of essential oil plants and animals, and synthetic substances.

Natural fragrances

Natural fragrant products are divided into products of plant and animal origin.

To natural aromatic substances of plant origin These include essential oils obtained in various ways, plant materials, resins, balms, and flower lipsticks.

Essential oils are aromatic liquids that are similar in appearance to vegetable fatty oils, but by their chemical nature have nothing in common with them.

Essential oils are a mixture of substances belonging to various classes of organic compounds (carbohydrates, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, phenols, etc.).

Each essential oil consists of a large number of components, among which one or more, contained in large quantities, are considered the main ones, determining the direction of the smell and the value of this essential oil.

Essential oils are highly volatile liquids; the presence of vapors of the fragrant part of the essential oil in the air is the cause of odor in humans. They dissolve well in alcohol.

The main essential oil crops include coriander, mint, pink geranium, essential oil rose, lavender, eugenolic basil, and clary sage.

In the 21st century, the city of Grasse in France has become the largest center for the production of raw materials for perfumers. He remains a leader in this field to this day. Jasmine, roses and orange trees are grown on Grasse plantations.

Essential oils are obtained from various parts of essential oil plants: flowers, leaves, wood, roots and rhizomes, flower buds, fruits, peels and fruits, needles.

PLANT RAW MATERIALS are used in the perfume industry in the form of alcohol infusions or solutions.

Dry raw materials are dried plant parts, as well as lichens (oak moss). Infusions have a full and persistent odor, increasing the durability of the scent of perfumes.

Resins - They are a mass of solid consistency secreted by resin-bearing plants growing in areas with hot climates, the most common of which are:

Styrax- a gray substance with a resinous-spicy odor, obtained from the amber tree (Syria, Transcaucasia, Central Asia).

Benzoin resin- a white substance covered with a brown crust, has a vanilla odor, extracted from plants growing in India.

Cistus- has a lemon-balsamic smell, obtained from the tsiamus bush (Mediterranean).

Balms - These are semi-liquid substances, natural solutions of tree resins in essential oils, which turn over time into a thick mass due to the evaporation of essential oils. Tolu balsam, which has a vanilla scent, is most widely used.

RAW MATERIALS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN:

Musk- a dark brown granular substance found in the musk glands of musk deer (deer). Musk has a strong, distinctive odor.

Zibet- a paste-like substance of a yellowish or brown color, with a strong specific odor, is a (carnivorous animal living in Asia and Africa).

Castoreum- glands of the male Siberian river beaver. It smells musky with a hint of tar.

To prevent precious fragrant substances from evaporating, so-called fixatives are added to them - odor fixers.

One of the best fixatives is ambergris, extracted from the stomachs of whales.

SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES.

Currently, up to 75% of synthetic fragrant substances are introduced into the composition of perfumery products. They have a wide variety of assortments and scents, for example:

Diphenylmethane - orange with a dash of geranium;

Paracymol - cumin;

Limonene - lemon;

Geraniol - roses;

Nerol - roses, but more delicate;

Lianol - lily of the valley;

Terpineol - lilac;

Eugenol - cloves;

Methyl ether - bird cherry;

Coumarin - fresh hay;

Benzaldehyde - almonds, etc.

Synthetic fragrances convey odors both present and not found in nature.

The composition of perfume products also includes: ethyl alcohol (used as a solvent), pheromones (from the gland enzyme of a rare animal - the musk deer), non-fragrant auxiliary substances (benzyl benzoate, diethyl phthalate, benzyl salicylate, etc.), water, dyes (rhodamine , fluorescein, acid green and anthraquinic violet).

Analyzing this information, we can conclude that the perfume industry uses a great variety of fragrant substances and for each of them the percentage of composition content is determined, that is, the limit that is safe for health.

July 11, 2018

Fragrant plant resins are substances of natural origin, organic polymer compounds that have a characteristic odor and good viscosity. When they freeze they become hard. Resins are widely used for the preparation of cosmetics. Production of perfumes, soaps, detergents, fresheners, and other products for hygiene, home improvement. Often used as incense during aromatherapy and other healing rituals. Due to their biologically active properties, fragrant compounds are widely used in folk medicine and are used to treat external and internal diseases. How are they mined? Collected by natural extraction from plants, by mechanical forceful cutting of tree bark.

Composition, biological activity

Resins belong to the category of energetic organic compounds, where the main components are diterpene compounds and cyclic acids. Also present are esters of resin acids, alcohols, tannins, hydrocarbons, phenols, etc. The substances are non-volatile, have high viscosity, and are soluble in alcohols and other organic and inorganic solvents. As for the connection with other components, they are mainly present in combination with essential oils.

Resins are considered one of the few natural creations that can protect and save from all diseases. That is why they are often called resin, that is, living substances filled with vitality. The amazing longevity and strong biological activity of resins is explained by their unique natural properties.

Resinous substances are considered one of the compounds most resistant to negative environmental factors.
It has a depressing effect on pathogenic microflora of any origin. All thanks to the fact that they have pronounced antiseptic and antibacterial properties that last for thousands of years.

How do you get plant resin? By collecting from trees, sources of the most valuable natural product.

Classification by extraction method, physical parameters, quality

Based on the method of extraction, substances are divided into several types:

One type of resin is collected from natural, special cuts in the bark, from which an aromatic, sticky mass flows out, which is subsequently distilled.
Another type of substance is collected in the form of a semi-hardened mass, which is mostly concentrated on the branches of resin-bearing plants. After collection, the branches are immersed in boiling water, where the resinous structures are detached.

According to physical indicators, substances are:

Soft, which includes almost all species obtained from plants.
Hard, like amber. Collected from several types of trees, such as cedar, larch, pine, and other conifers.

As for quality characteristics, substances are:

The highest grade, collected from the very top layers, perfectly clean, free of foreign inclusions and impurities. They are used for fumigation, making incense, producing beauty products, and for medical purposes.
II varieties, collected mainly from the middle layers. Contains impurities from tree bark, which falls during collection. They are used for incense, incense, and the production of natural cosmetics.
III grades are not inferior in quality and medicinal characteristics to the previous ones. They differ in that they contain a large percentage of all kinds of impurities: bark fragments, dust, sand, grass, animal hair, parts of bird feathers. For purification and subsequent use, they require preliminary filtration.

Main types of plant resins

Name	What plants are extracted from, properties
	The oldest, most popular of the existing species. It is extracted from a tree growing on the Arabian Peninsula, in the countries of North Africa. When burned, it emits a rich, pleasant smell, which explains its widespread use for fumigating rooms, making incense sticks, and other incense. By the way, these products are sold in assortment. Incense is also in demand in church rituals; it has long been used for Christian, Islamic, and Buddhist ritual ceremonies. It has also found application in perfumery and is added to various aroma compositions, hygiene products, and caring cosmetics.
	Due to its unique medicinal and cosmetic properties it is considered a valuable ingredient. According to the beliefs of many peoples, it is endowed with the ability to inflame passion, attract positivity, bring success in business, and prosperity to the home. If we talk about traditional medicine, aloe resin is widely used to prepare products that strengthen blood vessels, the heart, improve the condition of the skin, and increase local and general immunity.
Sandalwood	It is extracted from the trunk of the evergreen sandalwood tree, growing in Indonesia and India. Contains valuable components with antibacterial, antimicrobial, wound-healing effects. It has a pronounced pleasant aroma, is considered a natural aphrodisiac, and is widely used in aromatherapy, the incense industry, cosmetics, and medicinal purposes.
	Extraction is carried out from trees of the legume family, growing in Central and South America. Used in cosmetology, for ritual ceremonies, and for making incense. Before the production of synthetic polymer resins was established, copal was used to produce varnish for wood coatings.
Kedrovaya	It is extracted from Lebanese cedar, which is native to Lebanon. An analogue can be considered a similar substance extracted from cedar, growing in the Far East, in Siberia. It has a pronounced pleasant smell and is actively used in aromatherapy, classical and folk medicine. Used to produce camphor and turpentine.
Gopher	It is obtained from the Gopher tree, which has unique properties. The plant is considered one of the hardest, less susceptible to wormholes, rotting, and other damage than other species. Resin has been used since ancient times and is considered the best remedy for problems with the skin, inflammation, and infection of soft tissues.
Muira Pauma	Extracted from the wood of Lyriosma ovate, a crop native to South America. It is considered one of the strongest drugs that increases blood pressure and is a powerful stimulant of sexual function and the central nervous system.
Stacti, myrrh,	It is extracted from the trunk of a tree growing on the coast of the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, and in the countries of the South African continent. The resin, which has a pleasant smell, has been considered very valuable since ancient times. Previously, it was especially in demand in Egypt, Rome, Greece, and European countries, as it was used for embalming and anointing the bodies of the dead. Today it is mainly used for fumigation of premises, rooms, sacred anointing, and other religious ceremonies.
Sandarac	It is obtained after cutting the bark of a crop whose habitat is Algeria, the vast expanses of North-West Africa. It is used for cosmetic and medicinal purposes, often for the production of plasters.
Benzoinaya	It is obtained from the trunk of the storax tree, the birthplace of which is Palestine. A reddish-brown thick, thick substance is widely used for ceremonies, rituals, incense, and the production of smoking powder mixtures.
	It is extracted from a plant called Pistacia Lentiscus, whose natural habitat is the Mediterranean countries and the coast of Africa. How is it used? In dentistry for filling teeth, in the treatment of stomatitis, gingivitis, in folk medicine, pharmacology - for the preparation of the strongest wound-healing ointments, mixtures, tinctures.
Finnish tree resin	It is obtained from a plant similar in appearance to cypress. It has a very pronounced aroma; it used to be worth its weight in gold, equal in value to precious stones. Valued for its aromatic properties and unique medicinal properties.
	Conifer resin is formed over thousands of years during repeated oxidation followed by polymerization of wood resinous components. It has the strongest positive energy and is popular in cosmetology, traditional and alternative medicine. Suitable for water purification, it is considered the strongest antiscorbutic agent. Amber helps to cope with diseases of the respiratory and digestive organs, is useful for heart ailments, and obstructed urine flow. Due to its powerful antibacterial and antiseptic properties, it is used to treat asthmatic attacks, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, and various external and internal suppurations.
Halavanskaya	It is extracted from the wood of the hawan plant. The natural habitat of the culture is Abyssinia, Syria, Arabia. The substance has a pleasant, pronounced aroma and is used for aromatic incense and the preparation of medicines.
Arabian juniper	It is extracted from a plant of the juniper family, growing on the Arabian Peninsula. For thousands of years it has been used for fumigation and the preparation of medicinal potions.

Use in folk medicine

How are raw materials from tree trunks used in folk medicine and for home use?

Added to relaxing, therapeutic and prophylactic baths that help with stress, nervous and physical exhaustion, and dermatological problems.
They are dripped into household humidifiers and aroma lamps to freshen the air, creating an aromatic atmosphere that strengthens the immune system by eliminating bacteria and germs.
They are added to toothpastes and oral hygiene products to prevent caries, periodontal disease, stomatitis, and to cope with diseases if they already exist.
Used in cosmetics: creams, lotions, masks, tonics for problem skin of the face, neck, to prevent aging, fight acne, blackheads, comedones, and other skin rashes.
Add to massage oil to heal the body, normalize sleep, strengthen the immune system, and improve overall well-being.

Recipes for treatment and prevention

Problem
Cracks in the lips, corners of the mouth, furunculosis, eczema, stomach ulcers	The raw materials are mixed with sea buckthorn oil in a ratio of 1:2, boiled in a water bath for 2-3 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat, cool, use to lubricate problem areas, take ½ tsp orally. 2-3 times a day.
Teeth hurt, there are sprains, fractures	For toothache, resin is applied to the inflamed gum or aching tooth. For fractures, sprains, and bruises, apply the substance to the damaged area.
Respiratory diseases	The raw materials are burned, the vapors are inhaled, repeating the procedure 3-5 times a day. For tuberculosis, pneumonia, and other ailments, resin is dissolved in the mouth, which brings relief and promotes a speedy recovery.
	A cotton pad or swab is moistened in a mixture of oleoresin and vegetable oil, taken in equal proportions. Make applications, applying every 2-3 hours.
Shooting, cold back, pinching of the spinal, lumbar nerve	30 ml of raw material is used to massage problem areas. For complete recovery, at least 13-15 sessions are necessary.
To strengthen the immune system	A powder is prepared from oleoresin, for which it is first frozen and then crushed. Take ½ tsp of the finished powder. 3-4 times a day, preferably before meals.

The Golden Dragon online store has many products for health, beauty and youth. Many of them also contain resin or wood resin. It is found in products for women, TCM preparations, Chinese patches, and other health products. Are you interested in real teas and tea utensils? There is a large selection. Do you want to buy herbal teas brought from China, from Altai? A large selection is presented. Do you need souvenirs and decorations as gifts or for personal use? Take a look at the products we offer in this section. Still have questions? Ask our managers by phone: 8-800-511-09-08.

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Topic: “Synthetic fragrances”

Completed by: Vishnyakova K.

Fragrances- organic compounds with a characteristic odor, used as odorous components in the production of perfumes and cosmetics, soaps, synthetic detergents, food and other products.

Fragrant substances can be classified according to four criteria:

by type of raw material,

· according to chemical structure,

· by smell,

· according to the direction of use.

Raw materials for the production of aromatic substances. Currently, oils directly isolated from flowers, such as rose oil, are rarely used as aromatic substances. Usually, fragrant substances for cosmetic preparations (like perfumes themselves) are strictly thought-out mixtures, the components of which can be both natural fragrant substances and synthetic products. Raw materials for fragrances can thus be divided into natural and synthetic.

Natural aromatic substances can, in turn, be divided into the following groups:

essential (or easily evaporating) oils,

· resins and balms,

substances of animal origin.

Natural essential oils. Essential oils got their name because, on the one hand, they are thick oil-like substances, and on the other hand, they evaporate at room temperature in the form of vapors with a pleasant odor.

Chemically, they are not oils at all, but a variety of chemical compounds.

Of the flower oils, rose oil is probably the best known. Jasmine, clove, narcissus and lavender oils are obtained from their respective flowers.

Rosemary oil is distilled from rosemary leaves using steam, and bergamot oil is squeezed from the peels of individual citrus fruits.

Essential oils are found in the flowers of many plants, often even in the leaves and stems of plants. They are obtained from flowers or the whole plant, for example by extraction or steam distillation or, in some cases, by pressing.

Raw materials for the production of essential oils can be divided into the following groups:

1. Cereal(fruits, seeds):

· coriander,

fennel, cumin,

2. grassy(leaves, above-ground parts of herbaceous plants, young branches of woody plants):

eugenolic basil,

· rose geranium,

· patchouli,

tagetis,

· eucalyptus,

· noble laurel,

· wormwood,

nepeta,

· fragrant violet,

rosemary,

Grindelia,

· conifers,

· mock orange

· fennel,

3. Floral(flowers, inflorescences, flower buds):

· clary sage,

· lavender,

· lavandin,

· grandiflora jasmine,

· white lily,

Lily regale,

· lilac,

· mock orange

· cloves (buds);

4. Root(roots, rhizomes):

· vetiver,

A special fifth group consists of raw materials for obtaining clamps:

lichen (oak moss),

· cistus

Each essential oil plant, as a rule, serves as a source of one type of industrial raw material or essential oil. This is typical for plants in which the essential oil is located either in one organ or in several, but is very similar in composition.

Examples include the leaves and inflorescences of mint, the leaves and branches of bay laurel, as well as anise and fennel, all of whose aerial organs contain an essential oil similar in composition to the essential oil from ripe fruits. Therefore, anise and fennel can be considered as sources of two types of raw materials (grain and herbaceous) and one essential oil.

However, there are many plants in which the essential oil from different organs differs sharply in composition and, therefore, in smell. They are sources of several types of raw materials and essential oils.

These are citrus fruits

- from young branches from which petitgrain essential oil is obtained (bergamot scent, main component linalyl acetate);

- from flowers- neroli essential oil (the characteristic smell of citrus flowers is methyl anthranilate);

- from fruits lemon, orange, tangerine, etc. - essential oil of lemon, orange, etc. (smell characteristic of this species).

Such plants also include fragrant violet, coriander, iris, mock orange, tobacco, dill, etc.

The list can be continued indefinitely, since it is estimated that there are about 1,700 different fragrant substances in the plant world. These essential vegetable oils are, of course, not pure substances, but always mixtures containing some basic substance with a pleasant odor.

In the manufacture of some cosmetic compositions, a floral scent is used, but essential vegetable oils are usually not used in their pure form: unnecessary components are removed from them (often using rather complex procedures), such as terpenes harmful to the skin or any component that smells too strongly .

Thus, from many essential oils obtained from natural sources, purified semi-finished products are made for their subsequent inclusion in mixtures.

An example is citronella oil, which is obtained from the citronella herb. Several necessary fractions are distilled from this oil separately: geraniol, citronellol (the smell of menthol) and some terpene derivatives (used as fixatives).

Resins and balms- substances released by plants during normal physiological metabolism, as well as during wounds.

Balms- solutions of resins in essential oils. Resins have a solid consistency, balms have a liquid or ointment-like consistency.

Balsams and resins (Peruvian balsam, benzoin gum, etc.) released by plants when wounded, are natural protective agents developed by nature that accelerate wound healing.

Balms and resins successfully perform the same function when applied to animals and humans.

Resins and balms - energetic phytoncides. Due to these properties, many of them are highly desirable as components of cosmetic preparations intended for skin and hair care.

Resins and balms are found in many plants. These are complex mixtures of organic compounds, mainly diterpene structure, viscous consistency, non-volatile with water vapor, soluble in ethyl alcohol and other solvents.

Particularly widespread in resins cyclic resin acids general formula C20H30O2. In addition, they contain resin alcohols, esters of resin acids and various alcohols, hydrocarbons, tannins, phenols, etc.

As a rule, resinous substances are present together with essential oils. The ratio between them varies within very wide limits. There is also a great difference in the content of resinous substances in different types of essential oil raw materials. Thus, in rose flowers there is about 0.5% of the absolutely dry mass, in young branches of cistus - 26%.

Peruvian balsam- a resin that is collected from a notch made on the bark of an evergreen balsam tree from the myroxylon family. This is a substance with a mild odor, which has fixing properties; it fixes well and complements the smell of perfume.

Styrax- resin that is obtained when trees of the Hamamelid family are wounded. This is a substance with a pleasant odor, which is used in perfumery in its pure form as an odor fixative. Alcohols are also isolated from it, the esters of which are also used in the perfume industry.

Fragrant substances of animal origin. Of the aromatic substances of animal origin, mention should be made amber- a waxy substance that is formed in the digestive tract of the sperm whale, and also secreted by musk oxen musk.

Both of these substances are used due to their pleasant odor and fixing properties. However, the production of these substances involves the slaughter of rare animals, so today they are almost never used ( use their synthetic analogues).

Semi-synthetic fragrances. As mentioned earlier, geraniol, obtained from citronella oil and, as its name suggests, is an alcohol, is esterified with various low molecular weight organic acids. This produces esters with an unusually subtle odor. fragrant perfume styrax cosmetic

One example of such esters is acetic acid ester - geranyl acetate. A methyl group can be introduced into the geraniol molecule, resulting in a fine-smelling methylgeraniol.

Methylgeraniol is an example of how aromatic substances can be produced from natural products using the so-called semi-synthetic route.

Synthetic fragrances. Of the aromatic substances produced purely synthetically, the best known is the one with the aroma of bitter almond oil (which is obtained from apricot kernels). This benzaldehyde, the synthetic production of which is very simple.

Many aldehydes, fatty alcohols containing 9-10 carbon atoms, and esters of aromatic acids are natural aromatic substances that are quite easy to prepare synthetically.

On the other hand, there are usable synthetic compounds with a pleasant odor that have no corresponding analogues in nature.

Chemical structure of fragrant substances. The largest group of aromatic substances is esters; many aromatic substances belong to aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and some other groups of organic compounds.

Esters of lower fatty acids and saturated fatty alcohols have fruity smell(so-called fruit essences, e.g. isoamyl acetate).

Esters of aliphatic acids and terpene, or aromatic, alcohols have floral scent(eg benzyl acetate, linalyl acetate, terpenyl acetate).

Esters of benzoic, salicylic and other aromatic acids have mainly sweet balsamic aroma(they are often used as odor fixers - adsorbents of fragrant substances).

Valuable aromatic substances include, for example:

· among aliphatic aldehydes- decanal, methylnonylacetaldehyde;

· among terpene- citral, hydroxycitronellal;

· among aromatic- vanillin, heliotropin;

· among fatty-aromatic- phenylacetaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde.

From ketones The most important ones are:

alicyclic, containing a keto group in the cycle (vetinone, jasmone) or in the side chain (ionones, damaskones), and

fatty aromatic (for example, n-methoxyacetophenone, musk ketone);

From alcohols The most important ones are:

monoatomic terpenes (geraniol, linalool, terpioneol, cintronellol, etc.,

· aromatic (benzyl alcohol, cinnamic alcohol).

Extensive experimental material on the relationship between the smell of a substance and the structure of its molecule (type, number and position of functional groups, branching, spatial structure, presence of multiple bonds, etc.) is not yet sufficient to predict the smell of a substance based on these data. Nevertheless, some particular patterns have been identified for certain groups of compounds.

Thus, the accumulation in one molecule of several identical functional groups (and in the case of compounds of the aliphatic series, also different ones) usually leads to a weakening of the odor or even its complete disappearance (for example, when moving from monohydric to polyhydric alcohols).

Using the example of macrocyclic ketones (below in Figure (I)), it is shown that their odor depends on the number of carbon atoms in the cycle:

· C10-C12 ketones have camphor smell,

· C13 - cedar,

· C14-C18 - musky(the latter is retained if, with the same ring size, one or two CH2 groups are replaced by an O, N or S atom),

· and with a further increase in the number of carbon atoms (“n” in the figure) the smell gradually disappears.

Aliphatic compounds containing more than 17-18 carbon atoms are also odorless.

The similarity of the structures of compounds does not always determine the similarity of their odors.

So compound (II) in the figure below at R=H has an odor amber, compound (III) - strong fruity aroma, and analogue (II), in which R = CH3, in general odorless.

The cis- and trans-isomers of anethole, as well as the cis and trans-isomers of 3-hexen-1-ol, differ greatly in odor; unlike vanillin (IV), isovillin (V) has almost no odor:

On the other side, Substances that differ in chemical structure may have a similar odor.

For example, a rose-like odor is characteristic of:

· rosacetate C6H5CH(CCl3)OCOCH3,

· 3-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pentanol C6H5CH2CH2C(CH3)(C2H5)OH,

geraniol and its cis-isomer - nerol,

· rosenoxide (VI).

The smell is affected by the degree of dilution of the fragrant substance. Thus, some odorous substances have an unpleasant odor in their pure form (for example, civet, indole).

Mixing various fragrant substances in certain proportions can lead to both the appearance of a new smell and the destruction of the original one.

Classification of fragrant substances by smell. Until now, there is no strict scientific classification of fragrant substances by smell, and to describe them they continue to use subjective terms such as “fruity” or “floral”, “musky” or “putrefactive”... And in this direction, scientists and production workers are still only " with a nose."

Nevertheless already devices designed to identify volatile organic compounds have been created, called the "electronic nose". The principle of their operation is based on measuring changes in the conductivity of electric current by polymeric materials (for example, polypyrroles, doped metals) due to the absorption of volatile organic substances. They are already used to determine the freshness or spoilage of food, to monitor drugs, etc.

However, a device for accurately characterizing a particular odor (and not just a substance, and especially a complex mixture of substances - the carrier of this odor) has not yet been invented.

The human nose is still the most sensitive and reliable device when working with odors., which can determine the presence of odorous molecules in concentrations of up to 10 -6 g in 1m 3 of air.

It should be borne in mind that the sensations and definition of the nature of the smell of even the same fragrant substance by different people can differ greatly. For example, the smell of methyl salicylate in the USA and Canada is rated as very pleasant, but in England and Switzerland as smelly and unpleasant.

The smells of flowers are rated differently not only in different countries, but also among representatives of the same nation. Thus, a sharp discrepancy was discovered in the assessment of the same smell by people of different genders, ages, and health conditions.

It is also appropriate to recall that even the nose of one person perceives the same smell differently - for the right nostril it is more pleasant.

All these factors indicate a large degree of subjectivity when assigning a particular smell to a certain group.

It turned out to be difficult to classify fragrant substances by smell also because the smell of the same substance often depends on its concentration (for example, the smell of indole and skatole).

The first attempt to classify all odors was made by Aristotle in the 4th century BC, who divided them into six main ones:

· sweet,

· sour,

· sharp,

tart,

juicy and

· smelly.

And only two thousand years later systematic attempts to create more thorough classifications began.

According to one of the theories of the 17th century, it was proposed to distinguish seven so-called primary (basic) types of smell:

· ethereal,

camphor,

musky,

· floral,

· mint,

· sharp and

· putrefactive.

All the other existing diverse odors could be obtained by mixing the listed elementary odors.

In the middle of the 18th century, all odors were grouped into seven classes, and at the end of the 19th century. added two more classes, thus proposing the following classification of odors:

1. ethereal (acetone);

2. spicy (pine, camphor, clove, citrus, menthol, cinnamon, lavender);

3. fragrant (jasmine, violet, vanilla);

4. amber-musky;

5. garlic;

6. burnt;

7. goat (caprylic, smells of urine, sweat, sperm, cheese);

8. repulsive;

9. smelly (rot, feces).

In 1916, a classification system of odors was created in the form of a five-sided prism, at the six vertices of which the basic odors (1-6) are located, and at the points lying on the edges, faces and inside the prism - odors composed, respectively, of two (for example , 1-2 - floral-fruity), three, four and six main smells.

1-6 - basic scents: 1 - floral, 2 - fruity, 3 - putrefactive, 4 - burnt, 5 - resinous, 6 - spicy.

There are also purely “perfume” classifications of fragrances. For example, the classification of the French perfumery committee, developed in 1999, includes seven groups of scent compositions, divided into a number of subgroups:

1. Citrus(includes five subgroups - spicy, floral, woody, etc.),

2. Floral(nine subgroups - mono- and polyfloral lavender, aldehydic, greenery, fruity, woody, sea, etc.),

3. Fougere or fern (five subgroups - floral, amber, spicy, fruity, aromatic, etc.),

4. Chypre(seven subgroups - fruity, floral, aldehydic, leathery, aromatic, greenery, etc.).

5. Woody(eight subgroups - citrus, pine, spicy, amber, aromatic, leather, sea, fruit),

6. Amber(six subgroups - floral, spicy, citrus, woody, fruity),

7. Leather(three subgroups - floral, tobacco, etc.).

Classification of fragrant substances by type of use.

According to the direction of use, fragrant substances can be divided into:

1. perfumery substances(for the preparation of fragrant compositions intended for the manufacture of perfumes, eau de parfum or “day perfumes”, colognes and eau de toilette),

2. substances for cosmetic purposes(for adding fragrance to cosmetic products - lipstick, creams, lotions, foams),

3. fragrances(for soap, synthetic detergents and other household chemical products),

4. odor-fixing substances(to reduce the evaporation of base fragrant substances, as well as to intensify their smell in the case of synergism, that is, such a mutual influence of two components of a perfume composition that enhances their beneficial, in this context, and fragrant properties).

Bibliography

1. H. Villamo “Cosmetic chemistry”,

2. L.A. Kheifits "Fragrant substances for perfumery",

3. "Fundamentals of organic chemistry of fragrant substances for applied aesthetics and aromatherapy" under. edited by A.T. Soldatenkova,

4. I.I. Sidorov "Technology of natural essential oils and synthetic fragrant substances",

5. R.A. Friedman "Technology of cosmetics".

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