Soviet sausage or lies about delicious products in the USSR. Sausage recipes, how they were made in the USSR

IN Soviet times the sausage was perfect. Any technologist of any sausage production will confirm this to you. Nowadays you won’t be able to get sausage of this quality, even if you try to make it without sparing money.
Reference: In 1990, 2,283 thousand tons of sausage were produced in the RSFSR, 15.4 kg per capita. In 2009, 2,238 thousand tons of sausage were produced in the Russian Federation, 15.7 kg per capita.

1958 Kyiv. Shop "Ukrainian sausages"
All Soviet sausages were made according to GOST. For example Doctoral:
According to GOST 23670-79 per 100 kg of sausage
trimmed beef premium - 25;
pork, trimmed, semi-fat - 70;
chicken eggs or melange - 3;
Whole or skimmed cow's milk powder - 2;
table salt - 2,090;
sodium nitrite - 0.0071;
granulated sugar or glucose - 0.2;
ground nutmeg or cardamom - 0.05.
There were no toilet paper, preservatives, flavor enhancers, dyes, carrageenans, vegetable, animal or milk proteins, or phosphates in the composition.

The fact that GOST was strictly observed and for the slightest violation the person responsible would have been imprisoned for a very long time, I hope you have no doubt?

Currently there are no such recipes. All of the above additives, which did not exist then, but now exist, do not improve the quality of the sausage at all, but allow the sale of water and the use of low-quality meat (frozen, stale, of the wrong fat content).

Further. Let’s say for luxury stores they decided to make a classic Doctor’s, despite the price. Well, let’s say you even bought eggs and found nutmeg and cardomom not as part of functional mixtures. Where can I get meat? In Russia and Europe, cattle are now fed such things that even in terms of protein content they are fundamentally different from “normal” Soviet food. You can buy good meat (you can, but it’s expensive and they buy other ones) in South America. But it won’t be possible to deliver it chilled. And from frozen meat, which is now used by at least 90% of meat processing enterprises, it is impossible to make “correct” sausage. I’ll tell you a secret - you can’t cook anything good from frozen meat, and in stores, in the vast majority of cases, defrosted [thawed] meat is sold under the guise of chilled meat.

I talked at several enterprises with technologists who were trying to produce Soviet-quality sausage. Everyone said that it didn’t work out due to the inability to find high-quality meat raw materials. Even when purchasing raw meat from private traders in a live form, they are convinced that households are also fed “modern” feed, which does not have a very good effect on the meat.

Well, I’ll give you an example of a modern recipe that you like (I won’t write the specific names of spices and proteins):
Mechanically separated meat 45
Chicken skin 35
Animal protein 2
Water 18
Table salt 1.8
Spice mixture Combi 0.8
Dye 0.06
Milk flavor 0.06
Preservative freshener 0.3
Dry smoke 0.02
Emulsifier (sodium alginate) 0.5
Sodium nitrite 0.0075
Process water (ice) 8
Please note that out of 111 kg of sausage, they sold you only 45 kg of meat, and 26 kg of water, 40 kg of other nasty things, but according to statistics, all this will pass like meat. Eat, dear Russians.

What about toilet paper? About ten years ago, a technologist friend took out the price lists of Western suppliers and said: “Well, the dream of toilet paper in sausage has come true - they offer us food grade cellulose for sausages».

By the way, how much of this sausage was made in the RSFSR?

In 1990 - 2,283 thousand tons, 15.4 kg per poor Soviet soul. This was very little, so there was a terrible shortage of sausage. People could drop everything they were doing and go on a trip to Moscow for a couple of days to bring a “Doctorskaya” stick and three “Krakovskaya” rings to starving children. Soviet men only took women as wives who had several such sausage walkers behind them...

But the terrible times of scarcity are over, the Great Sausage Revolution swept away the retrogrades from power, and the doors of freedom and abundance opened up. In 2009, in the Russian Federation, having destroyed the livestock population and many totalitarian meat processing plants, with the help of thousands of small sausage factories and without any unnecessary livestock, using only naked entrepreneurial ingenuity, they produced as many as 2,238 thousand tons of sausage products, or 15.7 kg per free Russian soul . Today we can see sausage on every shabby counter, at any price from 60 to 1260 rubles per kilogram, and the new generation of Russians does not want to believe that someone could specifically go to hell for such crap. Before our eyes, Soviet sausage has become a legend.

I continue to introduce the reader to the story Soviet sausage according to the 1960 directory (Konnikov A.G. Directory for the production of sausages and semi-finished meat products. 2nd ed., revised, supplemented. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1960). Today we will find out the composition and technological requirements to the production of Soviet boiled sausages. Did you add water and ice to the sausage? pork skin, soy fillers, crushed bones, preservatives, toilet paper and the blood of repressed dissidents?

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Moscow and sausage

Population of Moscow:

1912 - 1.617 million people
1915 - 1.817 million people.

Main meat. Statistical and economic reference book. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1936.

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210 varieties of Soviet sausage and smoked meats.

List of all main varieties of sausages and deli meats, which were produced in 1960 at meat processing plants in the USSR. So, the assortment of Soviet sausages and smoked products according to the 1960 reference book (A.G. Konnikov, Directory for the production of sausages and semi-finished meat products. 2nd ed., revised, supplemented. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1960):

The food industry of the USSR in 1960 produced 1 million 351 thousand tons of sausage products, or 6.3 kg per capita.

As the memory of eyewitnesses suggests, by 1970 the situation with sausage in Soviet trade had worsened, obviously because Soviet industry produced 2 million 286 thousand tons of sausage products in 1970, or 9.4 kg per capita.

For many years, “Doctor’s” sausage was one of the symbols of the well-being of the Soviet family. People lined up for it, it was added to everyone’s favorite “Olivier” salad, a solyanka recipe was unthinkable without “Doctorskaya”, sandwiches with this sausage were on display in the regional committee buffets. How did this truly legendary variety of sausage appear?

Just what the doctor ordered

The exact date of birth of the Doctor’s sausage (GOST 23670) is well known. This is April 29, 1936, it was then, by order of the People's Commissar Food Industry Anastas Mikoyan began its mass release. The sausage recipe was developed by the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry, and was distinguished by its low fat content, despite the fact that the sausage contained a lot of protein.

The reason for the start of production of such a product was sharp deterioration health status of the country's population. After the abolition of the NEP policy and collectivization, famine began in the country, which affected entire regions. Lack of food, starvation - all this led to outbreaks of various diseases.

In the early thirties, Anastas Mikoyan visited the United States, where he visited meat processing plants in Chicago. Returning to the USSR, Mikoyan initiated the creation of the First Moscow Sausage Factory, which now bears the name of Mikoyan. It was here that the production of sausage began, intended, as it was said in documents of that time, for dietary nutrition people with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation - “... patients who have poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism.” The wording, of course, is somewhat crafty, but the sausage recipe is quite honest, containing only natural products himself High Quality.

In accordance with GOST, for 100 kg of sausage it was necessary to take 25 kilograms of top quality beef, 70 kilograms of lean pork, 3 kilograms of fresh chicken eggs, 2 liters of milk, salt, sugar, nutmeg or cardamom. The shelf life of this sausage was 72 hours.

The result is an excellent dietary product, very tasty, aromatic and healthy. This sausage fulfilled its task - to restore the strength of a person who has poor health. She was appointed as therapeutic nutrition doctors, which is why it received the name “Doctor’s”.

Doctorate? No, “chopped ham”

During the period of Soviet power, the following joke circulated in the academic community. Two candidates of science meet, one is dragging a bag containing something heavy. "Doctor's?" - his friend asks respectfully, meaning, of course, scientific work. “No, “chopped ham!”,” answers the first, meaning a type of sausage of a class lower than “Doctor’s”.

The anecdote quite accurately reflects the realities of that time. This sausage was not easy to find in stores, and it acquired the status of a scarce product. They fought the shortage in a simple Soviet way: by simplifying the recipe.

People of the older generation remember that back in the 70s, old people grumbled while cutting into slices a loaf of sausage bought with great difficulty: “Is this “Doctorskaya”? There used to be a “Doctor’s”! And this is nonsense, not sausage.” And they were right because classic recipe diet sausage, which remained unchanged until the end of the 50s, then began to degrade. The number of livestock in the USSR turned out to be not as large as we would like. In addition, pigs began to be fed waste from the fishing industry, which is why the meat acquired bad smell and taste. Gradually, it was allowed to add flour, melange instead of eggs, powdered milk instead of whole. By 1979, pork skins were also allowed, egg powder and starch. They started wrapping the loaf in cellophane. The reputation of the product, beloved by generations of Soviet people, was dealt a final blow. “Doctor’s” sausage was equal in quality to other sausages that sometimes appeared in Soviet stores, such as “Chaynaya”, “Yazykovaya” and the same one, “Ham-chopped”.

Why "Doctor's"? Because I ate - and go to the doctor!

Nowadays, the GOST standards of the Soviet era have been safely forgotten. The Doktorskaya brand is used by all and sundry, producing sausages with a monstrous content of flavor and aroma enhancers, acidity regulators, antioxidants, stabilizers, emulsifiers and color fixatives. At the same time, many enterprises produce products based on specifications - technical specifications, which make it possible to produce a product without meat at all, based on soy and corragens. Corragens are called thickeners, simulants food products. This is red powder seaweed. It's being flooded meat broth, mix and allow to harden. It turns out “almost real” minced sausage. Nevertheless, even today there are enterprises that produce goods strictly in accordance with GOST. It should be remembered that GOST 2011 allows the use of flour, starch, sodium nitrite in the recipe for “Doctor’s” sausage, and instead natural eggs and milk - dry substitutes.

The current “Doctoral” is no longer the same dietary product, which was developed in 1936 for the Mikoyan enterprise. That’s why, apparently, the joke was born: “Why is the sausage called “Doctor’s”? Because he ate - and go to the doctor!

Often, when we hear the word “history,” we imagine dusty shelves of archives and libraries, something distant and dilapidated. We rarely think about the fact that history lives in our home, in the most common everyday things and even in the food products that we eat every day... And it is some products that tell the story of their birth that can tell the story of the entire country. Don't believe me?

Then answer the question - what products from the table of an ordinary Soviet person can we still find on our table? That's right: Borodino bread, ice cream, Baikal and Duchess sodas, however, the list could go on for a long time. But, perhaps, the most honorable place will be occupied by “Doctor’s” sausage - one of the most popular food products today, which has become a kind of symbol of the Soviet country and one of the most famous brands of our time.

But the history of “Doctor’s” sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its kinks and complexities.

The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War has ended and the national economy is being restored. Almost throughout the entire country, the unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed, and the kulaks have been liquidated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which a decade later will allow the country to win the Great War...

A special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of “Doctor’s” sausage will be played by Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, People’s Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR since 1934. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the USA as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of “industrial” American food, several varieties of sausage and frankfurters, processed milk appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens industrially, a variety of canned food, ice cream...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the production of milk, sausages, and canned food.

April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed an order to begin production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by sausage intended to “improve the health of persons who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the tyranny of the tsarist regime.” It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those receiving treatment in sanatoriums and hospitals.

The recipe for this product was developed by the best specialists in the country, doctors, and employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), “Boiled doctor’s sausage of the highest grade” per 100 kg of sausage should contain 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of lean pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg cow's milk dry whole or low fat. The minced meat for the sausage was made from fresh meat and had to be double chopped. A minimum of cooking ingredients were used as seasonings. table salt; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give this sausage the name “”. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination “Stalin’s sausage” could be incorrectly interpreted by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.

Until the 50s, the recipe and quality of the sausage remained unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. This depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The ideal and model was the sausage of the Mikoyanovsky meat processing plant - the capital's giant, which primarily supplied the nomenclature, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought at almost any grocery store.

Interestingly, the cost of “Doctorskaya” was significantly higher than its retail price. In Doktorskaya stores they sold for 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s it was possible to buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 seals waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

Changes in the quality of sausage began only in the 70s and this was primarily due to the difficulties that continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, with the drought and crop failure of the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to sausage mince.

Dramatic changes in the fate of sausage - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the raw materials will change, and in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.

But still, most of us, coming to the meat department of a supermarket and choosing sausage, will first of all pay attention to the name “Doctorskaya”….

Born in the USSR: Doctor's Sausage and the Kopeika Car

I always buy only “Doctor’s” from the store. I don’t like anything else, especially anything with bacon. Smoked ham is okay once a year, ham is so-so rare, but “Doctorskaya” is super.

But the history of the “Doctor’s” sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its kinks and difficulties.

Look...

Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - this is due to the previous difficult years. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat. Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR since 1934, will play a special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the “Doctor’s” sausage. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the USA as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of “industrial” American food, several varieties of sausages, industrially processed milk, a variety of canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the production of milk, sausages, and canned food.

The recipe for this product was developed by the best specialists in the country, doctors, and employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), “Boiled doctor’s sausage of the highest grade” per 100 kg of sausage should contain 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of lean pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of whole or skim cow’s milk powder. The minced meat for the sausage was made from fresh meat and had to be double chopped. A minimum of table salt was used as seasoning; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give this sausage the name “Stalin’s”. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination “Stalin’s sausage” could be incorrectly interpreted by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 50s, the recipe and quality of the sausage remained unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. This depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The ideal and model was the sausage of the Mikoyanovsky meat processing plant - the capital's giant, which primarily supplied the nomenclature, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, the sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought at almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of “Doctorskaya” was significantly higher than its retail price. In Doktorskaya stores they sold for 2 rubles 20 kopecks. In the mid-70s, with this money you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

There is such an addition. Here’s the phrase: According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), “Boiled doctor’s sausage of the highest grade” per 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of lean pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of whole cow’s milk powder or low fat"

This is all great, but there is another point in this GOST:

2.6. It is allowed to use when producing boiled sausages, frankfurters, small sausages and meat loaves:
food phosphates in an amount of 0.3% by weight of raw materials (in terms of anhydrous);

-sodium ascorbate or ascorbic acid in the amount of 50 g per 100 kg of raw materials;

Smoking preparations approved by the USSR Ministry of Health;

Pasteurized cow's milk with mass fraction fat 2.5 and 3.2% in an amount of 8 kg instead of 1 kg of whole milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 7 kg;

Cow pasteurized low-fat milk in the amount of 11.5 kg instead of 1 kg of dry skim milk with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 10.5 kg;

Powdered cream with a fat content of 42% in an amount of 1 kg instead of 2.1 kg of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

Cow dry whole milk with a fat content of 25% in an amount of 1 kg instead of 610 g of dry cream with a fat content of 42% or 1281 g of cow's milk cream with 20% fat content;

egg powder in the amount of 274 g instead of 1 kg of melange or 1 kg (24 pcs.) chicken eggs;

Trimmed buffalo meat, yak meat instead of trimmed beef meat of the appropriate grade in the production of premium sausages up to 50%, first and second grades up to 100%;

Boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the highest and first grade with production defects (scrap, deformed loaves, with minced meat over the shell, broth-fat edema, etc.) for the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade; second grade - for the production of sausages and meat loaves of the second grade in an amount of up to 3% by weight of raw materials in excess of the recipe;

Hemoglobin preparation or food blood in an amount of 0.5-1% by weight of raw materials;

Spice and garlic extracts instead of natural ones;

Trimmed beef trimmings in quantities up to 10% - for beef sausages and sausages of the first grade and up to 30% - for tea sausage, meat loaf tea to the mass of trimmed beef of the second grade, provided for in the recipes, in exchange for its corresponding quantity;

Trimmed pork trimmings in an amount of up to 10% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves, first-grade sausages and up to 20% - for boiled sausages, second-grade meat loaves to the weight of trimmed semi-fat pork, provided for in the recipes, in return for its corresponding amount. The joint use of trimmed beef trimmings and trimmed pork trimmings is not allowed;

Protein stabilizer to the weight of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade;

The mass of beef, pork and lamb to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade. For individual lamb sausage - up to 15% of the meat mass from lean lamb instead of single-grade trimmed lamb;

Beef, pork or lamb mass obtained by processing bones in saline solutions, in the amount of 4 kg instead of 1 kg of meat mass obtained by mechanical pressing, with a decrease in the mass of added water by 3 kg;

Food plasma (serum) from the blood of slaughtered animals to the mass of raw materials in the following quantities:

up to 5% instead of added water when producing boiled sausages, frankfurters, small sausages and premium meat loaves;

up to 15% instead of added water when producing boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the first and second grade;

up to 10% instead of 2% trimmed pork and 8% water or 3% trimmed beef (or lamb) and 7% water

or up to 15% instead of 3% trimmed pork meat and 12% water or 4% trimmed beef (or lamb) meat and 11% water;

Cuttings obtained from stripping boiled smoked meats instead of raw beef or pork fat in an amount of up to 10% when producing beef sausages, beef sausages, beef meat bread;

Pasteurized low-fat cow's milk instead of added water in an amount 5% higher than the recommended water norm, except for doctor's sausages, milk sausages, with sorbitol, regular sausages, and milk sausages;

We started producing this sausage in 1936 year, adapted the sausage recipe and the technology for its production at the All-Russian Research Institute of Meat Industry, and for the first time carried out production at the Moscow Meat Processing Plant named after. . Sausage was intended as a dietary (therapeutic) food for patients with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation (specifically, “...patients with poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism”). It is believed that due to the high popularity of the name “Doctor’s” sausage, it has become the object of numerous imitations and counterfeits.

Beef pulp - 250 gr.
Bold pork pulp - 700 gr.
Natural milk - 200 gr.
Egg - 1 pc.
Sugar - 3 gr.
Salt - 2 gr.
Ground cardamom - 0.5 gr.

Preparation of minced meat
Beef and pork meat must be minced twice. The first time with a large mesh, the second with a fine one. Add spices (cardamom, sugar, salt) to the minced meat. Mix everything thoroughly. Add egg with milk. Beat the minced meat with a blender. The result will be a viscous mass. Don't worry about the color of the sausage. After all, you will get a natural color (without dyes). Place the prepared mass in the refrigerator and keep it there for about an hour. If you want your homemade doctor’s sausage to have a pink color, you can add vodka or high-quality cognac to the minced meat ( 2 tablespoons).

Preparation sausage casings
Doctor's sausage requires careful preparation of the casing. At home, you can use both artificial and natural ones. It needs to be cut into pieces according to 25-30 cm. After this, the shells should be washed with warm, slightly salted water and their ends should be tied on one side with cotton twine, moving away from the edge 2 see. A simpler option is to use a baking sleeve with a width 30 cm.

Sausage stuffing
We fill our shells with minced meat. You can use a special device for this (for example, a meat grinder with the necessary attachment) for stuffing sausage. Then we form the sausages, pressing the casing tightly with our hands. After this, we tie the shell tightly on the other side. Finally, you need to carefully examine each sausage and, if you find large air bubbles, carefully pierce them with a thin needle.

Cooking sausage
In a saucepan, heat the water until 95 degrees and place the workpieces in it. Doctor's sausage is cooked at home at a temperature 85-87 degrees throughout 50 minutes. The main thing to remember is that the water should never boil. . The final stage At this stage, the doctor's sausage after cooking is cooled immediately under running water (it will be enough to allocate only a few seconds for this process). Next, the sausage is cooled at room temperature, and then in the refrigerator. Homemade doctor's sausage Storage conditions are as follows doctor's sausage are quite simple: the temperature should be 4-8 degrees, and as for the period, it must be consumed within 72 hours.