Russian cuisine ksu. Putan, Lisnyak: Modern Russian cuisine at home


In Oksana's recipe, the amount of ingredients is given for two dishes, we don't eat that much, so I cooked one. But I advise you festive table serve exactly two "Herrings under a fur coat", it is so tasty that one is definitely not enough for you.

For one small dish (if necessary, just multiply the number of products by 2):
- 1 small herring or 2 cooked fillets
- 2 potatoes about 200 gr
- 2 carrots about 200 gr
- 2 small beets about 200 gr
- 2 eggs
- 1 small green apple
- 3-4 tablespoons mayonnaise
- salt

Wash potatoes, carrots and beets and boil until cooked, salt during cooking, then you do not have to add salt to the vegetables in the salad. boiled vegetables clean. Grate potatoes and carrots on a coarse grater, set aside the beets for now .. Boil hard-boiled eggs.

Peel the herring, remove the film and separate the fillets. Finely chop the herring fillet, divide into two parts, put one on a dish or a beautiful plate.

half grated potatoes put on top of the herring, tamp a little. If you haven't salted the vegetables while cooking, now is the time to add a little salt to the potatoes. Spread 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise. Spread mayonnaise over potatoes.

Put half of the grated carrot on potatoes with mayonnaise, spread it evenly and carefully tamp.

Peel the apple and seed box, grate it on a coarse grater (it is better to do this just before using it in the salad so that it does not darken) and spread over the carrot layer.

Grate the egg whites, too, and set the yolks aside, they will come in handy later. Put the grated squirrels on the apples in an even layer, tamp. Add 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise and spread it over the surface.

It's time for the second floor. Now lay out the remaining half of the chopped herring.

Put the remaining potatoes evenly on the herring again (if desired, this layer of potatoes can be smeared with another tablespoon of mayonnaise), spread the remaining half of the grated carrot on top.
In a separate bowl, grate the beets fine grater, add mayonnaise (salt, if you did not do it during cooking), mix.

Put the beetroot on top and use a wide knife or spatula to evenly distribute it over the entire surface of the salad. Grate the yolks on a fine grater and sprinkle them over the salad. Wipe the edges of the plate or dish with a damp paper towel or the edge of a towel.

Everything, our delicious "Herring under a fur coat" is ready!
Enjoy your meal!

For me, pancakes were an eternal problem. Well, they didn't turn out the way I wanted them to. They said that everything is good, that it is delicious. But I understood that this is NOT what I would like. And here in my journal professional chef Oksana Putan shared that "secret" recipe. And I baked pancakes. And I realized that dreams come true. And those pancakes that I imagined exist. And now I know how to cook them. And, having run the recipe several times and realizing that the miracle does not end, I am happy to share Oksana's secrets with you.

PANCAKES FROM OKSANA

0.5 liters of kefir
1 egg
2.5 cups flour (no top)
0.5 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons of sugar
0.5 teaspoon soda
vegetable oil refined for frying

Pour kefir into a bowl, beat in an egg, put salt and sugar. And stir with a whisk.
Separately, sift flour into a bowl, put soda there.

And, when the mixture is mixed, add flour with soda into it. And in a circular motion from the center to the edges with a whisk, knead the dough. It is thick, but in moderation. Those proportions that Oksana gave are perfectly calibrated.

The dough is kneaded ONCE. After that, you can no longer touch it!

Let the dough rest for 10-15 minutes. During this time, the soda will be extinguished with kefir, giving out bubbles to the surface. And the gluten in the flour will swell.

After the specified time, heat the pan. Oksana recommends a thick heavy pan. I have a heavy one with a ceramic coating. Heat the skillet over medium heat. Pour there vegetable oil approximately 1 cm high. Periodically reduce the fire for a couple of minutes to a minimum, and then return to the original mark.

Too big, but I took less test, that's all.

With a spoon, the dough is scooped up only from the edge. Do not touch the rest of the dough!

Carefully spread the dough in the pan, remember that the pancakes will increase greatly, so do not spread too close. It is necessary to spread the dough carefully, without sudden movements, simply separating it from a spoon, without shaking it off.

Fritters are fried slowly. Closer to the readiness of the lower side, holes appear on the upper surface, the dough becomes dull. When the pancakes (look at their side) are 2/3 ready from the bottom, turn them over with a WIDE spatula. It's so easy to do! Because the dough does not spread!

From below, they reach readiness faster.

When the finished portion is removed, add oil. And lay out a new portion, without waiting for the oil to warm up.

From half a liter of kefir you get a decent slide of pancakes!

After cooling, they do not fall off! And baked inside!

I am very grateful to Oksana for her professional secrets!

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My other recipes

Oksana Putan is a chef with twenty years of experience. She has worked in restaurants, cafes, bakeries, cruise ships and parish refectories. Runs his own canteen. Writes cookbooks and leads culinary columns in magazines. Lives in Kurgan.

Elvira Baryakina: You probably started cooking at a young age. Yes?

Oksana Putan: But how. Favorite treat those times - boiled condensed milk. Moreover, it was not necessary to cook in a saucepan: they put a couple of cans behind the battery and in a day or two it was ready.

And the canned goods were incomparable: buckwheat with meat in tin cans. Fry this in a pan until crispy - a fairy tale and not food. Recently I saw something similar in the store, I decided to get nostalgic - but figurines. Either it was not cooked at all, or we were already getting drunk. Or maybe it's from the same opera as New Year's tangerines. Which were tastier when I was a kid.

E.B.: You lived in a military town. Tell a story about your soldier's canteen.

O.P.: An old, old story, from childhood.

A soldier from the nationalists asks for a glass of tea from a tray:

Comrade on duty, please pass THIS! He digs: - What is it? - Well, this is it, - the fighter hesitates, remembering Russian word, - here it is, in a glass ... Well, fried water!

However, he was not far from the truth. Then I often had to see how in canteens (for example, in pioneer camps), instead of tea in a tank, they brewed burnt sugar, and the tea leaves floated on top for the view. Taste, respectively, no, but what saturated color turned out! This method was especially popular on long-distance trains.

E.B.: The most colorful chef in your memory?

O.P.: I am against chauvinism, especially professional. But still, the brightest and most talented chefs that I have met are men. I don't know why. One of them is Serezha Karasev. Tall, funny, skinny. The standard cutting table was too low for him, and if, after cutting meat or beets, we all walked with soiled bellies, he would have spots on “the very interesting place". He then sighed that "critical days have come at the wrong time again."

Working with him was a lot of fun and I learned a lot from him. However, I have always been lucky with teachers. My first ship was the Yury Trifonov cruise ship, which took tourists to Korea and Japan. And there the chef really disliked me. She could not kick me out, fire me, write me off - she did not have such opportunities. And then she said: "I will rot you with the help of the menu - you will run away yourself." She gave me such a daily task, it was time to despair. But now I easily do such quantities, without any fear. In the summer, together with an assistant, they cooked for a wedding: 80 people, 14 types of dishes. And nothing - did it.

E.B.: And how did you get on a cruise ship that went to "foreign countries"? It must have been a hell of a place.

O.P.: I went to work at sea after the decree. She divorced her husband and thought that she needed to get settled somewhere. During the time that I was on maternity leave, my native public catering was reorganized and there was nowhere to return.

We lived in the port of Kholmsk, on Sakhalin. I went into the personnel department with the firm intention of getting a job in the port fleet, on some kind of tugboat: to work from 8 to 5, and every evening at home. And there the personnel officer looked at my diploma, and said:

Listen, we need a fifth-class cook at Yuri Trifonov.

I got lost. At "Yuri Trifonov" they got jobs only for bribes, and here such a freebie. But my son was small. She went to her mother to ask. Mom sighed: “Go on, what really. Just look at the world."

I got involved. Then there were other boats. If on the “Yuri Trifonov” there was a crowd in the galley - a separate baker, a separate auxiliary galley, then on small steamers there was only a cook and a barman. I had to do everything myself, including baking bread. I didn't know how to bake bread.

Came for the first time on such a ship with a direction. The captain asks:

Do you bake bread? I hesitate. I know the theory, of course, but I don't have the practice. - I allow you to spoil three pastries, and then to learn.

And I started. Oh ... I'll mix the dough according to the textbook, bake 12 black scary bricks, cut it - from the middle raw dough pours out. There is a “cap” in the galley - something like a garbage chute: everything goes overboard at once. Looking around, I go up to him with my pastries: gurgle-gurgle - 12 gurgles. Bag in hand and to the store for bread. It's good that they were on the coast. And a week later the flight (albeit short-lived). I had to buy bread for the whole week.

Almost all of my salary went to this bread. I got all the chefs I know. I asked everyone how they bake bread, why they succeed, but I don’t. Each had his own trick and his own recipe: and completely different.

Then the old Alexandra Grigorievna, Trifonov's baker, said to me:

Don't worry and don't listen to anyone. You know the theory, you bake pies. Just take it and try it over and over again ... Then, when you FEEL THE DOUGH, it will work with bad flour and bad yeast.

I did so. And at some point it really got through. Since then, I always get both dough and bread. I then worked in a bakery for five years, taught so many bakers myself.

E.B.: Now tell a sea tale.

O.P.: Not exactly marine, but directly related to my last name. People who hear it for the first time always roll their eyes. Most frequently asked question“Is that your real name?” Of course the real one, would anyone in their right mind take such a pseudonym for themselves?

It was in 1994, or maybe in 1993... By the way, I already wrote about this case on the Internet, now my story is circulating on websites with jokes. It was at Trifonov. I had a girlfriend - a barmaid in the wardroom, Sveta Botsman (such is the girl's surname, but should I grin).

We had to get up early, and in order not to oversleep, we wrote in the journal in the reception room, where the flight attendants kept watch around the clock.

On that flight, a familiar guy, Vasya Pyatykh, went with us as a passenger. The pitching, even minimal, had a very strong effect on him: he could not sleep. And now this Vasya sits with the flight attendants and, out of boredom, leafs through the logbook: “At 7 in the morning, wake up the Boatswain.” Bullshit, he thinks, probably written with a mistake: the girls didn't put an end to it. I had to wake up at 7 am. Boatswain".

The next entry shocks him: "At 5 in the morning to wake Putan." He looks up at the flight attendants.

Why the hell are you raising them up so early?!

E.B.: And what about pitching - did you have to cook in a storm?

O.P.: There is such a trick in the sea: they always ask if you are rocking or not. If you get sick, they won’t make you work in a storm - they will replace you. If the sailor is motion sick, the navigator will take the wheel instead of him. But if you do not rock: be kind, work hard. And now you fly around the galley along with the pans. And only one in ten loses their appetite during a storm. Others, on the contrary, are attacked by a terrible zhor.

E.B.: How do dishes not turn over during pitching?

O.P.: There is special devices- all sorts of holders and sides at the stove and pans. And the menu, of course, is simplified as much as possible. Naval pasta is just such a dish. I immediately understood where it came from and why it is called that.

However, the tables in the wardroom are covered according to all the rules - as if there were no pitching. But also with its own tricks: for example, tablecloths are saturated with water and spread wet. Dishes stand on such tablecloths, and do not move from side to side.

I remember once I made dough for bread, I thought we would weather the storm. An no. Captain, God bless him, he's stuck in 8 points. So it was throwing, the barmaid and I almost turned gray with fear. Then they looked at the dough: what kind of bread is there! He was so shaken up that it became liquid: it fit only on pancakes.

All in all it was a good school. And it was fun, despite all the difficulties.

E.B.: Tell us about your work in the parish refectory.

O.P.: It so happened that I once believed in God. There were unpleasant events, and faith happened. What to do with it, I did not know at that time. It turned out that I couldn’t live in the old way, but I didn’t know how to live in the new way. I needed time to come to my senses. I bought a house in the countryside and stayed there for two years.

The refectory has its own characteristics: restrictions on fasting - this is possible, then it is impossible. I had to twist. And in the fast days, meeting guests, it was necessary to please the white priesthood, and not to deprive the monastics (they cannot eat meat).

During those two years, I did weddings and anniversaries there. The work loves me and always finds me: people from the city constantly came and persuaded me to go to work in their new cafes and restaurants. But I refused: I no longer wanted to go to a restaurant - it became uninteresting. And then I opened a cafeteria in the office, and now I do what I do.

E.B. They say that if you know how to cook sausage and brew beer, you will never take them in your mouth. What will you never eat?

O.P.: In restaurants, I never order dishes from several components. Usually I take only a steak or a chop and a salad from fresh vegetables. I know the inside of this job too well. And such an order is a sure way to stay both full and healthy. And it’s immediately clear what a cook is worth, because the “especially gifted” will even manage to spoil the chop, and a good specialist from a simple piece meat will cook a masterpiece.

E.B.: How did you become a food writer? O.P.: It all started with a blog. I got it for my friends - I got tired of dictating recipes to everyone in turn. Started posting online detailed descriptions and then pulled in. It turns out not bad: I write only about what I myself have tried. Three books have already been published: "Rolls", "Lamb" and "Chicken". Dumplings and Sushi are on the way (we are doing this book together with my Japanese girlfriend).

In addition, I now lead the culinary column in the newspaper. The responses are quite unexpected. For example, a physics teacher at the lyceum where my son studies often tells what and how she cooks according to my recipes.

A lot of material has accumulated, so there will be new books and new articles in the media.

Recipe from Oksana Putan

Breaded squid rings

It is prepared very simply and very quickly.

For 4-6 servings you will need:

600 grams of squid 4 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons flour 6 tablespoons breadcrumbs 500 grams refined vegetable oil

Put the frozen squids in a bowl. Fill with boiling water. Almost the entire film will curl up under the action of boiling water. Remove the remaining film, the insides and the chord (transparent spine) under running water.

Cut the peeled squids into rings 1 cm thick. Heat the oil as for deep fat. Pour flour into a separate bowl, mix it well with salt. knock out raw eggs into another bowl and stir with a fork until smooth.

Gently bread the squid rings in flour. Then dip into the lezon (eggs).

Roll well in breadcrumbs, and spread in oil. Fry for 2-3 minutes on each side. Finished rings remove from the oil with a slotted spoon to get rid of excess oil. Try not to deep-fry many pieces of squid at once, the rings should float freely in the oil, without clinging to each other. Then you get perfectly even rings.


2 tablespoons sour cream

Breadcrumbs should be without any dyes and additives. The best way- this is to dry a few pieces of white bread or a loaf and grind them into crumbs. Usually I put all the bread crusts in a basket that is somewhere high on the cabinet, and then goes there stale bread. Just be sure to tear it with your hands into smaller pieces (for a meat grinder or mixer). It’s not even necessary to cut with a knife - bread crumbs, in fact, don’t care how perfect the cutting of crackers was. They (crusts) naturally dry out in a week. I periodically look into this basket and pour the contents into a blender. Zip-zip and you're done. And themselves breadcrumbs, it is better to store in paper bag in the closet. No tight closed jars and containers. On the other hand, if you are at home White bread don't eat - then don't bother. And if you find good breadcrumbs without additives in the store - buy with a margin. Often, normal crackers can be found in bakery stores. Or in those supermarkets where they bake their own bread.

Pour a glass of cold water into it.

See how to calculate the amount of bread added to minced meat. Usually, such a filler should be about one third of the stuffing. We have 600 grams of minced meat, which means there should be about 300 grams of already soaked and squeezed bread. Or the same bread, but already finely ground. A glass of water is about 220 grams, and it’s not even necessary to weigh the crackers.

Mix the breadcrumbs with water and set aside for a couple of minutes.

Cut it finely.


Season with all the salt.

For one kilogram of minced meat - one full (with top) teaspoon of salt. And here we have: 600 grams of minced meat, 300 grams of crackers, 100 grams of onion - that's a kilogram. It’s easy to add such simple numbers in your mind, and you don’t need to raw minced meat try for salt.

Then rub the onion with salt with your hands.

He must give juice, i.e. look wet.

Pour the onion into the bowl with breadcrumbs. By this time they will have absorbed all the water.

Add minced meat.

One raw egg.

Half a teaspoon of ground pepper.

Attention, if you have someone who thinks that he does not eat onions, then fine cutting is not your option. Then chop this onion into porridge on a grater or blender, you don’t need to knead anything, salt and ground onion immediately add to the bowl, and ... "it was the fourth year of my marriage, my husband is still sure that he does not eat zucchini."

Several times (5-6) lift the minced meat and throw it back into the bowl with force. Do not swing strongly))) lift 10 centimeters, the main thing is to let go with effort. That's why I write deep bowl so that all these manipulations right inside the bowl can be done. Otherwise, instead of having a quick dinner, you will have to wash the kitchen all evening.

Then divide the minced meat into 8 or 12 parts.

Put a dry frying pan on the highest heat, pour in 4 tablespoons of oil and heat for exactly two minutes. Then turn the heat down to medium and start shaping the patties.

With wet hands (you can pour water into a bowl of minced meat, and dip your hands there every other time), first roll a ball of minced meat, then squeeze it lightly with your palms. To get flat round meatballs.


And immediately put them in the pan. First along the edges of the pan, and in the last - already in the center. It is always hotter there, so we always put the last cutlet or pie in the center, but we turn the central one over first.

Now attention - do not overdo it, do not play it safe. Grill for exactly 5 minutes on one side.

Then 5 minutes on the other side.


If you don’t have all the cutlets in one pan, do this: remove the cutlets 5 minutes after you fry them on the second side, carefully, with a spatula, on a separate plate.

Then necessarily Wipe off any remaining oil in the pan with a paper towel and pour in new oil. Do it for sure. Otherwise, you will save the unfortunate 4 tablespoons of butter, but the cutlets will turn out terrible, in burnt flakes from the previous batch.
Fry the second batch for 5 minutes on one side and turn over. Fry for another 4 minutes, then pour the first batch of cutlets into the pan. Cover everything with a lid, fry the remaining minute according to the timing and remove from heat.

At the moment when you put the cutlets in the pan, put the rice on to boil.
Pour a glass of rice (I have jasmine, it is very tasty in itself) into a narrow saucepan.

Pour in one and a half glasses of water. Salt (a teaspoon without top).

Put the rice on fire. Bring to a boil.

Do not focus on holes in rice - it depends on the variety and burner. You will see that the rice began to rise above the surface of the water - that's it. Turn off, cover with a lid, set aside. Thin long rice will reach itself in about 15 minutes. Then just stir it with a fork before serving.

In the meantime, rice is cooked and cutlets are fried - prepare a salad.

Wash the vegetables, cut either directly into a salad bowl (on weight), if you still don’t know how, then on the board. Any arbitrary way.
Salt. Add two cloves of garlic (through a press or on a fine grater).

Top with sour cream.

Mix well.

That's all.

And it's all very tasty, well, very, very tasty.

Rolls from "pre-dough" with chocolate

What is another word for dough that is made in advance?

Here is the recipe (my hand just reaches out to write "simple", but it really is!)

The dough will be softer than usual.
Would need:
a glass of milk
3 cups flour
a quarter cup of vegetable oil
25 grams fresh yeast or one teaspoon dry
2-3 tablespoons of sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg
and 80 grams of simpler chocolate, without fillers

But everything is in order.
So, in the evening at 10-11 o'clock, you make a couple of simple movements.


A glass of milk at room temperature. If the milk is from the refrigerator, warm it for exactly 30 seconds in the microwave.
Don't overheat!!! AT recent times three times they discussed with the girls why the dough did not rise - it turned out that it was practically bred in boiling water. Boiled, in short.


I repeat - pour a glass of milk at room temperature into a larger bowl.
You add sugar.


There is also yeast, half a small pack of fresh or a teaspoon (with a top) of dry.


Mix well and leave for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, rub the chocolate on a coarse grater. The most hemorrhoid of the whole recipe lesson)))


Cover the grated chocolate with a film and put it in a cool place (not in the refrigerator).


As soon as the yeast begins to show signs of life, start the dough.


Add a teaspoon of salt. I measure the dining room so that the dishes are less dirty.


Measure the butter into the same glass with which the milk was measured. (dadada, let's reduce the amount of dirty dishes)


Pour three cups of flour into a bowl.






With one hand, start kneading the dough. Remember that you first need to stir the yeast with flour, and only then add the oil?


So more or less stirred and poured oil.


And then already stir "as it should!" To absorb all the flour. Stirred, not kneaded!!!
And leave the dough for 10 minutes in a bowl.


Then put it on the table and well, but quickly (not 40 minutes, but one), punch it down and roll it into a ball.


In such a dense ball. And back into the bowl of it.


Wrap cling film in a circle, wrapping the entire bowl twice. make a couple of holes in the film.


Place the bowl of dough in the refrigerator.

And go to sleep in peace! I slept like that until 10 am)) that is, almost 11 hours.
It's not going anywhere from a submarine!

And in the morning, when you get up, first of all, take the bowl of dough out of the refrigerator.


Put the dough out of the bowl on the table and go quietly brush your teeth.
It will lie down for about 10-15 minutes and then move away a little.


Then roll it into a "round rectangle" - that is, a wide long strip.


Sprinkle with grated chocolate. I will immediately answer the questions that will be - yes, chocolate can be replaced. How? Anything. coconut flakes, jam, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, nuts, cheese, whatever your heart desires!

And roll up.




Turn the roll seam side down.


And walk on it with a rolling pin - flattening a little.


Cut crosswise into slices 3-4 centimeters wide.
Chocolate, the infection gets enough sleep, but it's not fatal.


Place the roll pieces on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Or on baking paper.


Leave them at room temperature part.
For 30 minutes at least.
After 15 minutes, do not forget to turn on the oven at 220 degrees. Let it warm up.


Crack the egg into a small bowl. Add the same volume of water and mix well.


Not earlier than half an hour after proofing and just before putting the rolls in the oven, brush each roll with an egg using a brush.


Bake for 10-12 minutes.


Ready rolls immediately remove from the pan and eat rumbling!)))

While writing the post, I realized that preparing these plushes is much faster and easier than fiddling with letters and pictures. So don't let my verbosity scare you))) There really is nothing to do there))) So I'm waiting for you tomorrow with pictures of rolls)))

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