Blue cheese: description and types, benefits and harm. Blue cheese (blue, white, green, blue): benefits and harm to the body

Everyone knows that blue cheese is a delicacy, but not everyone has tried this delicacy. This happens for completely different reasons: rejection, fear, lack of awareness, and sometimes a simple lack of money. The average buyer is put off by the smell of cheese, as if spoiled, and the taste is not at all the same as that of pickled or pickled cheese. But its connoisseurs will answer that mold cheese is a delicacy that should be eaten rarely and in small portions. Only then can you truly enjoy this dish, which at first glance causes the most natural disgust.

What types of cheese are there?

Blue cheese is made from the very full fat milk, usually cow, but sometimes sheep or goat, like famous cheese"Roquefort". There are several types of mold cheese:

With a white mold rind, cheeses of this type are ripened in cellars, where “ noble mold"covers all the walls, and at the same time the crust of the cheeses ("Brie" and "Camembert");

With blue mold - blue mold is also considered noble; it can be seen on the cut of cheese in the form of small inclusions. To prepare such cheese, a fungus is introduced into the head, and in order for the mold to spread better, metal needles are additionally inserted (Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Bleu de Causse);

With washed crust (red mold) - this one spicy cheese with mold are treated with special fungal cultures that color the crust yellow, orange or red.

Is mold cheese healthy?

If you use it in large quantities, Yes. For example, this cheese with garlic is completely safe and ready to eat. It contains large amounts of vitamins, phosphorus and calcium, as well as protein and amino acids. Nutritionists say that the bacteria contained in cheese improves digestion. Which is very necessary for most of us, given irregular nutrition and stressful situations. And Turkish scientists have proven that mold cheeses contain a special substance that accumulates under the skin, promotes the production of melanin and protects the skin from sunburn. That is, as we see, there are still benefits from such cheese. Maybe this benefit is not as great as we would like, but, nevertheless, some positive aspects are still present.

How to eat mold cheese?

The cheese should be at room temperature. It's best paired with crispbreads, crackers, fruits and vegetables, or just bake it in the oven. The British love to add it to soup, the Italians to pizza, and the Danes simply eat it with bread. There may be many options, but the result is always the same - gourmet dish for real gourmets! If you visit often European countries, then you should definitely have noticed that such cheese can be found in many establishments. But in our cafes and restaurants they treat such a dish with a little caution.

Is there any harm from such cheese?

Blue cheese is prepared using penicillin fungi, which help cope with many inflammatory diseases, and are not harmful in themselves. But if you consume more than 50 grams of mold cheese daily, then it is likely to develop dysbacteriosis and allergies. Pregnant women should absolutely not consume mold cheese, as this has a negative effect on the fetus and can cause its death. You should not give cheese to small children, as this can cause the development of a specific disease - listeriosis. And in general, it is better to consume mold cheese once a month, then you will never have health problems. And remember that cheese is important product nutrition, and mold cheese is no exception. Try it various varieties, and you will appreciate it.

What amateurs don’t include in their diet unusual delicacies: on the menu different countries you can meet frog legs, and blue dumplings. The process of adding originality to the cheese was also involved. Even 7,000 years ago, this product was eaten exclusively “clean” - at the slightest hint of mold it was immediately thrown away. Now blue cheese is a frequent guest on grocery store shelves. Where did this delicacy come from and what is its specialty?

Blue cheese: names of types and varieties

According to legend, blue cheese owes its formation to chance. In the town of Roquefort, about 2000 years ago, a French shepherd forgot his lunch - bread, cheese and water - in a cave. After a month, the loss was found and for some reason (possibly due to the lack of other food and severe hunger), the man ate the stale food. The cheese, covered with bluish mold, had a salty, spicy taste and was extremely liked by the shepherd. The inhabitants of his village appreciated the shepherd's discovery and began to specially put the prepared cheeses in the caves. This is exactly how Roquefort appeared - the first blue cheese. In the 15th century, cheesemakers in this province received permission from the king to produce this original cheese. To date aromatic product with a wonderful nutty flavor, it is famous all over the world.

Of course, over the past centuries, the technology for making cheese has changed, as has the geographic distribution of the delicacy. Today, blue cheeses are made not only in France, but also in Italy and Great Britain.

What is the name of blue cheese and its many varieties?

The “names” of the product largely depend on the color of the mold used in the manufacturing process.

Cheese with white mold

This product is clearly recognizable from the variety of numerous “brothers” on store shelves. There is a visible fluffy surface on top of the product. white mold. Cheeses smell of withered grass, fungi and moss - this smell seems to immerse the consumer in the charm of the autumn forest.

Varieties of cheese with white mold are represented by the names Boulette-daven, Brie, Neuchatel and Camembert.

Boulet-daven. The product owes its name to the French town of Aven, after which the cheese is named. It is made in the form of original triangles weighing about 300 grams, flavored with spices. The cheese matures for 2-3 months.
Bree. The most popular cheese with white mold. It has long been considered a favorite dessert of many French kings. Young cheese is soft and delicate taste, older ones - spicy.
Neuchatel. Normandy cheese, covered with a dense crust with clearly visible mold on the surface. It has a bright mushroom taste.
Camembert. A type of fatty cheese that ripens from September to May (the product does not like heat). Made from cow's milk. In a gentle creamy taste Mushroom notes are easily discernible.

With red mold

Another interesting subtype of savory delicacy is products with red, burgundy or orange mold.

The cheese gets its unusual shade as a result of washing technology during the ripening period:

Camembert dipped in cider. As a result, the product is covered not with white, but with red mold, and the taste of the cheese is much sharper than the classic version.
German Limburgish. The aged cheese is tied with reeds and then irrigated with water to which the dye annatto has been added.
Epuas. They “treat” you with Burgundy vodka, which is based on red grape varieties.

Blue cheese

Blue mold has only recently been discovered. It is approved for official use in some products, including cheese.

The most popular types of blue cheeses:

Roquefort. Yes, yes, the same one that languished in the cave for so long. To this day, it is sent to mature in special caves with the required level of humidity and temperature. Participates in the formation of blue mold Rye bread, and so that it is not only outside, but also inside the cheese, it is pierced with needles.
Gorgonzola. Made from cow's milk italian cheese. The cooking technology is reminiscent of Roquefort, but Gorgonzola matures longer - 4 months, not 3, like its French counterpart. The taste of the cheese is piquant and pungent.
Dorblu. The cheese recipe was created at the beginning of the last century in Germany (by the way, the recipe is kept secret to this day). Unlike previous options, this cheese has a milder taste.
Stilton. English cheese made from cow's milk. For full readiness aged for 9 weeks. It is considered the budget equivalent of Dorblu.
Danablu. Relatively young from the point of view of creating a recipe, cheese. It matures for 3 months and exists as a budget substitute for Roquefort. Unlike the latter, Danablu has a more salty taste.

What are the benefits and harms of the product?

It turns out that cheese with penicillin is not only tasty, but also healthy and here’s why:

Restores acid-base balance oral cavity. Thus eliminating unpleasant odors from mouth.
Helps remove toxins from the body.
Protects skin from harmful effects UV radiation. In addition, “moldy” cheese is an effective prevention of wrinkles.
Fights gastrointestinal disorders.

Blue cheese is considered harmful for:

pregnant women;
little children;
patients diagnosed with enterocolitis, ulcer or pancreatitis;
people with pathologies of the endocrine system.

How to eat blue cheese correctly

Blue cheese is a delicacy widely used in many cuisines around the world. The product will be an excellent treat as independent dish, and in tandem with other products.

Cheese goes best with:

with fruits. The cheese is served with figs, pears, and apples;
with nuts. Cheese gets along well with walnuts or almonds;
with wine. It should be noted that for each variety cheese will do definite alcoholic drink. So, for Roquefort you should choose sweetish wines such as port or Sauternes. These drinks will highlight the harsh taste of the delicacy. Soft cheeses (Brie or Camembert) go well with sparkling wines.

Recipes with blue cheese

A delicacy with mold is often used in cooking various dishes in many countries of the world. You can prepare delicacies from it in your own kitchen:

Salad

Ingredients:

chicken fillet – 1 pc.;
avocado – 1 pc.;
bacon – 150 g;
cherry tomatoes – 10 pcs.;
Roquefort – 150 g;
eggs (quail) – 4 pcs.;
salad (leaves) – 5 pcs.

Preparation:

Fry the bacon and sauté the fillet in the same oil.
Cut avocado, eggs and tomatoes into slices.
Place the ingredients in a circle: lettuce, eggs, cheese, bacon and chicken, avocado and finally tomato.
Pour olive oil over the salad.

Sauce

Ingredients:

Roquefort – 100 g;
cream – 200 ml;
black pepper - to taste.

Preparation:

Cook the cream over low heat until thickened.
Add sliced cheese, cook until completely mixed with cream.
Season the sauce with pepper to taste.

Blue cheese - original product with bright taste. Invented more than 2000 years ago, the recipe has not lost its popularity to this day. Cheeses with white, red or blue mold are favorite delicacies of gourmets all over the world.

This product has long been loved by people because of its piquant taste and unusual looking. For any gourmet, you can choose a variety of blue cheese. In addition, it brings invaluable benefits to the body.

The composition of this cheese, like any other, includes a lot of calcium, due to this, it is considered healthy. The peculiarity is that due to the mold state, calcium will be absorbed much faster human body. In addition, it is the most important source of protein, surpassing even fish or eggs.

The composition contains amino acids that influence muscle formation. It has been proven that a person who regularly consumes mold cheese has good protection skin from sun rays, due to the production of melanin.
Serve a variety of products on a large round plate. A wide variety of varieties are laid out on it. Each type of cut has its own shape. Light cheeses are usually placed along the edges, and the most piquant types are placed in the middle. To ensure a fuller taste of the product, the cheese should stand for a while before serving. room temperature, about an hour.

Due to unusual taste, usually served on the table strong wines. In addition, you can serve with bread, crackers, and fruit. In some recipes, mold cheese is placed in pasta, pizza, and also in various salads.

Cheeses with white mold

Names of cheeses with white mold:

Bree. It is white in color, with a slightly grayish tint. It is produced in the form of a circle, with a diameter of up to 60 cm. The thickness of the product can be different, from 3 to 5 cm. The smaller the thickness, the sharper the taste will be. Young, unripe brie will have a soft texture. With the aging process, it hardens. The smell is reminiscent of ammonia, the white crust smells strongly of ammonia. But, nevertheless, all fragments are edible and safe for humans. It is this type that is recommended to be consumed when first getting acquainted with mold products;
Boulette d'Aven. Of all the species, it is considered the most smelly. Not every gourmet decides to try this product. Made from soft, curd mass. On initial stages After ripening, the cheese is kept in beer brine, then parsley, wormwood, garlic, and pepper are added. Thanks to these ingredients, such a pungent odor appears. Form into a cone, weighing 180-200g, then sprinkle generously with paprika and leave to ripen for up to 3 months. Ready cheese, has a soft structure. The product is stored for no more than 30 days.
Camembert. Soft cheese, has a creamy consistency. Prepared from two types of milk, whole and skim. The process of making cheese is long and complex. For production, only milk is required premium. Therefore, cows are grazed on specialized pastures before being milked. Color finished product, can be either light cream or dark. Covered with airy, white mold. The thickness of the finished flatbread is up to 3 cm, width up to 11 cm. The sharpness of the cheese varies depending on the ripening time. It has a pronounced mushroom flavor. The product has a short shelf life, so it is often sold unripe;
Cambozola. Made from premium quality milk, special starter culture, salt and cream. Using knitting needles, veins of blue mold are introduced into the inner part of the cheese, and the outer layer is covered with white mold. It has the most delicate texture and is sharp, spicy taste. Was received empirically, during experiments on different types cheese. Produced in two types: fat up to 70%, low-fat up to 25%;
Kare. French cheese, the upper part of which is covered with an edible mold crust. Its fat content is reminiscent of brie;
Coulommier. Made from pasteurized milk, it has a delicate texture. The diameter of the cheese wheel is from 12 to 15 cm, thickness is 3-3.5 cm. On top there is a crust of white mold, sometimes with red spots. The product matures for up to 8 weeks, its hardness depends on this;
Neuchatel. Variety soft product, matures in 3 to 4 months. The longer the aging occurs, the softer the product will be. In cross section it has a light yellow color. The upper part is covered with a white cap of mold. The peculiarity of the species is that it is produced in absolutely various forms, the most common form is the heart;
Pont-Leveque. Refers to the variety with the most pungent odor. This happens due to soaking finished product in brine. It has square shape. It is made in 2 types: homemade - from unpasteurized milk, factory - from pasteurized milk. Homemade cheese, can only be found on shelves in Normandy. The ripening process lasts up to 5-6 weeks;
Rouzette. One of the types of brine, mold cheese. During the cooking process, it is washed 5 times. It has a sharp ammonia smell, the crust is slightly pinkish in color, due to the content of paprika;
Shawrs. Looks like a small, square head covered balloon white mold. Tastes like mushrooms or hazelnuts. The texture is creamy and delicate. Ripens up to 3 weeks.

Blue cheeses

Names of blue cheeses:

Cheeses with red mold

Types of cheeses with red mold:

Cheeses with green mold

Names of cheeses with green mold:

How to choose quality mold cheese: a quick guide

Rules to follow when choosing blue cheese:

There are no openings on blue cheeses that are too wide, otherwise it will be a spoiled product. Blue mold should not fill a large number of channels;
The cheese should retain its shape, while being slightly loose and moist;
It is necessary to carefully examine the composition of the cheese; penicillin and salt are usually used for ripening. There should not be any artificial colors present;
Fresh cheese has the smell of penicillin, a snow-white crust, and traces of the grill on which it matured may be visible;
The product should melt in your mouth like butter. If there is a hardened layer around the edges, this is a sign that it has been stored for too long;
The shelf life of any cheese should not exceed 2 months;
The presence of a huge number of holes in the cheese indicates a low-quality manufacturer;
Brine cheese should not have a loose appearance;
The cheese must be packaged in special wax paper. This is done to stop the maturation and growth of mold;
Determine availability palm oil It's easy to get into the product if you press lightly on it. The outer structure of the bar must be elastic.

Many manufacturers of mold cheese varieties have been famous for centuries.

This product can decorate anyone festive table, especially if you combine different varieties on one dish. In addition, high-quality cheese brings great benefit for the body, especially for those who play sports. The most important thing is to follow the instructions when choosing a product.

And in addition - an interesting video about how blue cheese is made.

We are accustomed to the fact that moldy foods are not edible and therefore cannot be eaten. And this is true, if you do not take into account the fact that the famous goat cheese with mold, which not only represents a very unique and extraordinary food product, but also has a number of beneficial properties. Why can this blue cheese be eaten, is it beneficial or harmful?

How to eat this delicacy correctly and how to tell if it has gone bad?

How did mold cheese appear? The ancestor of the product is the famous Roquefort cheese, the birthplace of which is considered to be the settlement of the same name in the mountainous region of France. The history of the appearance of the delicacy is more like a legend, and maybe it is one. The French believe that the first blue cheese was created through negligence by a young shepherd who left an ordinary piece of delicacy in a cave when he became infatuated with a beautiful girl. Whether this is true or not is unknown. But historians claim that the benefits of blue cheese for the body were known to the ancient Romans.

Main varieties of delicacy

There are many types of blue cheeses

As you know, not all mold is equally beneficial for human health. To be more precise, today only three of its species are allowed for consumption. This is the so-called white variety mold, blue and red appearance. In addition to mold, cheese production involves special lactic acid bacteria(in particular, Lactobacillus casei).

Goat cheese with white mold

These types of cheeses are very recognizable, as there is a specific fluffy coating on their surface. white- mold of the penicillin family. Today, many people, when asked what the name of cheese with white mold is called, without much hesitation can name Camembert, Brie; for example, the Boulet d’Aven variety also belongs to this group. These cheeses have an oily consistency and rich taste resembling mushrooms. They are usually eaten together with the crust, which gives the delicacy a specific smell.

Blue cheese

Noble blue mold is not located on the surface of the head, but inside it. The taste of the inclusions largely depends on the milk that was used in the preparation process, the degree of ripening of the product, and the features of its manufacturing technology. Blue cheese, the benefits and harms of which are based on the properties of penicillins, has a spicy, salty taste and smells something like moss or mold. The most famous names Among the delicacies of this group are Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Stilton.

Red mold cheese

How is red mold cheese made? Unlike cheese with white and blue mold, this variety elite delicacy has a special washing technology, thanks to which the inclusions receive a characteristic red, burgundy or Orange color. For example, when Camembert is dipped in cider, the resulting product is very savory and pungent taste. Epoisse cheese is created by dousing the delicacy with Burgundy vodka made from red grapes.

Cheese with black mold

A black coating is present on cheeses that can only be tasted in the places where they are produced. This rare delicacy is produced only in small private enterprises located in the old part of Europe. Its basis is unpasteurized milk. Eating such a food product can be hazardous to health, so the black crust must be cleaned off before eating it.

Beneficial features

Is blue cheese good for the body? Definitely yes, but only if consumed in moderation. Scientists have proven that this elite food product contains great amount proteins that give a feeling of quick satiety and are necessary for the construction of cells that make up every organ of the human body.

In addition, it contains such valuable chemical elements as:

calcium;
zinc;
phosphorus.

Phosphorus is useful because it prevents vision deterioration. In addition to blue cheese, phosphorus is found in cilantro

The lactic acid delicacy also contains the vitamins we need, in particular A, B, D.
How many calories in gourmet product? In fact, elite mold cheeses are very high in calories, as they contain about 320-350 kcal per 100 g.

You will learn more about the benefits of blue cheese from the video:

What are the benefits of blue cheese? The benefits of blue cheese are due to the presence in its composition large quantity calcium and phosphorus, necessary for building and maintaining the normal state of bone tissue.

In addition, valuable vitamins allow you to:

maintain all metabolic processes in the body at the required level;
improve vision;
thin the blood;
prevent the development of stress.

A piece of the delicacy eaten daily will help improve the functioning of the digestive system, normalize stools and restore intestinal microflora. Another benefit is preventing the aging process of the skin and prolonging its youth.

When answering the question whether blue cheese is healthy, it is important to clarify some points, namely: how much can you eat and how to eat the product correctly? In order for the tasty morsels to be only for the good, you should not overuse the moldy delicacy. Experts recommend consuming no more than 100 g of the product at a time, and when used daily, its amount should not exceed 50 g.

What are the benefits of white mold cheese? The benefits and harms of cheese with white mold are not much different from the properties of its blue relative. In addition to all of the above, white moldy milk product, thanks to the content of penicillin, promotes wound healing by stimulating skin regeneration processes.

External use of birch buds will also help heal the skin.

Harm

Is blue cheese harmful? Despite all the positive qualities, in some cases this food product can be dangerous to human health. If you consume the delicacy in large quantities, the microorganisms in its composition will suppress the natural microflora digestive tract. Since the product is obtained by introducing penicillin fungi, which is quite allergenic, it should not be eaten by people prone to developing pathological reactions in the form of a rash, skin itching, redness, or even anaphylactic shock.

The dangers of blue cheese are also evident during pregnancy. Why shouldn't pregnant women eat blue cheese?

Blue cheese during pregnancy and breastfeeding prohibited because it is a possible habitat for listeria, and therefore can cause the development of listeriosis, an infectious disease that is especially dangerous for expectant mothers.

This disease in pregnant women is accompanied by fever, severe intoxication, and vomiting. Such symptoms are a huge burden on the immune system, which can cause miscarriage, miscarriage, or fetal development abnormalities.
Why is it dangerous to eat blue cheese during breastfeeding? Yes, because it promotes the fermentation process in the intestines, and can cause colic in a baby.

Features of use

What should you eat blue cheese with so that it fully reveals its properties? taste qualities?

Experts say that when consumed elite varieties delicacies you should know all the subtleties of their combination with other noble products:

The Camembert variety with its mushroom notes goes perfectly with fruit and champagne. Surprisingly, this spicy delicacy perfectly complements sweet desserts, which is why it is usually eaten with jelly or grapes in honey;
On a plate with Italian Gorgonzola, it is better to put neutral-tasting foods - bread, vegetables. Cheese can be safely added to casseroles and pies, and also consumed with red wine and good beer;
Brie is good served with pineapples and melon. Gourmets often recommend dipping it in apple jam;
Dor Blue goes well with dried fruits, white bread, grapes different varieties and nuts. People love to add it to pizza, and also use it to prepare dishes with seafood;
Roquefort opens with honey and sweet fruits. What wine goes with the king of cheeses? It would be more appropriate to serve sweet and dessert wine with it.

You might be interested in learning about the benefits buckwheat honey. Read more

How to choose and store correctly?

The benefits and harms of blue cheese depend entirely on its quality characteristics. Therefore, it is important to be able to really choose quality product. A buyer in a store must pay attention to the expiration date of the delicacy and how it was stored.

White mold cheese must be packaged or wrapped in foil. You should pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions on how long this blue cheese can be stored in the refrigerator. In general, storing in the refrigerator is not the most the best way save gourmet cheeses, as there is no access there fresh air and a lot of foreign odors. The product is best stored in a cool place with good ventilation.

You can prepare blue cheese yourself at home; you will learn the recipe in the video:

Can blue cheese go bad, and how can you tell if it has happened?

A moldy delicacy is considered unfit for consumption if it:

Similar materials

Most likely, most readers have heard that blue cheese is a delicacy. Many people have probably tried some varieties of this cheese. To be honest, I tried it too, and didn’t find anything super unusual. Yes, quite tasty, but nothing supernatural. What's wrong with this cheese? It turns out that real blue cheese is produced only in France - yes, in many countries they also do something similar, but the most best cheeses made in this country. By the way, there is even a legend about blue cheese.

This legend says that once a young man, a shepherd, had just sat down to have a snack of bread and cheese on the slope of Mount Combalou (near the village of Roquefort), when a beauty passed by. The shepherd, without thinking twice, rushed after her with the intention of getting to know her, but there was no trace of her (I think an unshaven man was running after her in the middle of the day on a mountain slope - any girl would have run away). So, when the shepherd returned to the same cave a few months later, he saw that the cheese he had left was covered with mold, and after tasting it, he discovered that this cheese had changed its taste, becoming completely different. This is how Roquefort cheese, perhaps the most famous blue cheese, appeared.

Of course, this is just a legend, but blue cheeses have a very rich history. If you see Roquefort cheese somewhere here, and the place of production is not the province of Rouergue, France, then it is not Roquefort, but simply a copy of it, and not best quality. Real cheese Roquefort can only be produced in the caves of the Rouergue province. There is not much space in these caves, and therefore this cheese costs several times more than its analogues (and it is not at all necessary that the analogues are less tasty than Roquefort itself).

By the way, the mold that is used in the production of such cheese is not harmful to health; this is said out of ignorance. The mold Penicillium roqueforti (yes, it has a similarity with penicillin, right?) is one of the most important factors that makes blue cheese taste so original.

In addition to Roquefort, there are several other well-known varieties of blue cheese: Gorgonzola, Stilton and others.

Gorgonzola is also a very famous variety of blue cheese, the birthplace of which is considered not to be France, but Italy (the regions of Piedmont and Lombardy). The taste of Roquefort and Gorgonzola is significantly different, as the Italians use for the production of this cheese. sheep milk. In addition, the type of mold is different - instead of Penicillium roqueforti, Penicillium glaucum is used, plus two types of bacteria, Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus. While the cheese is ripening, metal rods are inserted into the mass to ensure better ventilation. The ripening time for this cheese is approximately four months. By the way, it is known that Gorgonzola is at least 200 years older than Roquefort.

Stilton cheese, next on our list, comes from England, more precisely from the counties of Derbyshire, Lesteshire and Nottinghamshire. This cheese is made exclusively from pasteurized cow's milk, aged for at least 9 weeks. This cheese differs from other varieties in that in the total mass of the cheese there are many, as it were, passages made by mold. To become Stilton, this cheese must meet a number of requirements. Stilton is much younger than both Roquefort and Gorgonzola, and it appeared in the 18th century.

By the way, Danablu cheese only appeared in the twentieth century, replacing the expensive Roquefort. Gorgonzola also has a copy, and it’s called Bavaria blue.

In general, we got a little acquainted with the history of blue cheeses (of course, there are many more types of blue cheese than listed above, I just cited the most famous varieties), let's now see what this cheese is eaten with.

Since blue cheese has a very strong taste, it should be served with “strong” wines. Before serving such cheese to the table, it is necessary to keep it at room temperature, and it is best served along with unleavened bread, fruit, and crackers. By the way, blue cheese is very tasty as an element of salad; it can be added to spaghetti sauce, or even to pizza. Of course, Roquefort is unlikely to serve this purpose, it is very elite, but the newest varieties of blue cheese are quite suitable for such use.

Well, all that remains is to wish you bon appetit!